odonnell

Forgive my limited knowledge in this area. Since I bought the car, there has been a plastic/rubber line that has been hanging under the driver's side front wheel well:



It goes up and then bends back down to down to connect to the top of the charcoal canister. From what I can tell, the line simply vents to the atmosphere.

The vent line (that runs alongside the fuel feed and returns lines) is routed into what I believe is the top of the canister from the fuel tank.

Then there is that nub on the bottom of the canister. Is something supposed to connected here? It feels like it is not plugged. Every once in a while the car will not start on the first try when it is hot out, which makes me think this may be a related issue. Everything else is fine when the motor is running, but I want to make sure this isn't a problem.

odonnell

Anyone? The car always fires, but after the initial dun-dun-dun-VROOOM it sometimes dies. It always dips down to 200-500 RPM and bounces back, but sometimes doesn't make it (always fires up the second time though). Would modifying this canister setup help in any way?

V2Rocket

the u shaped line is the breather...when the thermo valve at the back of the head (bunny ears) opens the gas fumes trapped in the canister get sucked into the engine at the throttle body...needs a vent line to push the fumes to the engine to burn.

i suppose one of the many vacuum lines could be leaking but i doubt it would cause that kind of running issue...try clamping the hose or plugging it do isolate it from the engine and see what happens...

odonnell

The only vacuum "leak" I have is from the dipstick, according to my PVC pipe pressurizer. I'll try plugging it, thanks.

The TPS idle position has been eliminated by turning the throttle stop screw and adjusting the idle, so the butterfly valve is always slightly open. I believe this is also contributing.

V2Rocket

The TPS thing is likely the cause of the problem - at that point you are relying on the AFM to idle the car...not a reliable solution.

Dougs951S

My old 2.5 na ran the same way, with the idle tps position eliminated. It also had the occasional stallinh after starting issue, and the tps is the source. Michael, if I remember correctly I was the last person to adjust your tps unless you touched it after me. Why did I set it that way? There had to have been a reason.

odonnell

I've messed with it a few times since. I rebuilt the throttle body with new seals and I inspected the TPS while I had it off, it checked out. When I reinstalled, I adjusted with the stop screw until just after it 'clicks' for idle (hence the butterfly being slightly ajar). Consequently, the idle adjustment screw had to be calibrated to lower the idle to 950, which I bet has something to do with it. If I give it gas when it tries to dive back down after startup, it comes right back, which sort of confirms that.

Dougs951S

Just try bumping the idle a touch. My car with no idle switch idled at 1050 on the tach