ninjacoco

So, I have this kit to install: http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Pors...442-RHK-S.html

Hoses are a little thicker, but that should actually be good, right?

So, I replaced one of my hoses that looked like it hasn't been touched since 1984 (OEM was labelled 944 106 241 01)--smaller opening up top and bigger opening down below, just like the one that came off.

The only problem is that the one just below the camshaft/cam gear in the front rubs up against the bottom of the cover for that gear there.

Should I be worried? Did I install this wrong? Help!

I'm guessing that won't be as pointy an edge with the other side of the gear cover back on, but it looks kinda worrisome anyway. What'd we screw up, or did I get the wrong hose?

Photo via poorly focusing iPotato reached down into the engine bay--it just touches that corner of that cover/shield/thing there:

f1rocks

That connects to the pipe running along the cam tower correct? If so, unless you are running a heater in the race car, just plug that hose, and put a block off plate on the back side of the head. Take that metal hose and throw it away.

I typically pipe clamp a large bolt in it. Block off plate is easy to make out of aluminum, just use the elbow attachment as a template and cut one out.

Weight savings

ninjacoco

D'oh. Problem solved, haha.

Yep, that's the pipe. I know we weren't running a heater in the last car, so I'll have to look at what we did on that engine, I guess, and save this hose for if I ever toss a heater back in.

V2Rocket

Even the new replacement rubber hose from Porsche tend to rub on the cam housing. Haven't had a leak or anything on any of the cars I've replaced it on, but it does make getting the belt covers on difficult.

f1rocks

You won't......your race suit will keep you plennnnnnnty warm.

ninjacoco

It's supposed to get to 27 this weekend!

27!

And I'm from Texas, so anything below 60 is fail!

ninjacoco

w00t! Entire rail is donezo. I looked at what we'd done on the last car's engine and it looks like it was just dangling there in the back. Either that or it came loose from whereever it was rerouted.

Either way, I'm liking the extra space and lost weight on this one!

There's the hole on top of the (new, shiny, PITA to replace, and just replaced) water pump (right above the thermostat) on the front end where that hose clamped on. Any advice for blocking or rerouting that open hole? I'm guessing that needs a tighter seal than the one in the back.

f1rocks

Take your old hose, or your new hose....go to Home Depot, buy a bolt that fits the hole and clamp it in. On the back side of your head (driver's side) is an elbow that will likely have a broken vacuum nipple. You can either do the same trick or take that elbow off the engine and use it as a template to build a block off plate from 3/16" flat aluminum plate. Remember to put the seal on and voila, you have one less orifice to worry about.

Van

For the water pump, I prefer to tap it for a 3/8" NPT pipe plug... that way the rubber can never rot and crack. But that's better done with the water pump off.

If you go with Brent's idea, find a long bolt with a smooth shank above the threads... and cut the threads off. I've had problems in the past of coolant/air/oil seeping past the spiral of the threads when I've tried that method.

Van

p.s. if you don't want to remove the intake manifold, or be a contortionist, you can use the "plug in the hose" technique for the back of the head, too.

A "real" racer wants to eliminate the rubber hoses... because they can be a point of failure and spoil your weekend.

f1rocks

That's Van.....always one upping me

Now I have to go buy a tap and plug the water pump on the new engine build!

I will be cutting some block off plates, play nice, send me your address and we'll make an extra one. They aren't that pretty but they work.

Van

For the block-off plate, I just weld up the hole on the existing one, and then touch it to the belt sander. Done in about 2 minutes - don't even have to drill any holes!

ninjacoco

OOH. I like this pipe plug idea, but there's no way I'm taking that water pump off again unless it's borked.

mel_t_vin

I believe there's a factory rubber plug [p/n 944.106.103.02 from my notes], secured with a hose/worm clamp, that can be used to cap off this opening on the WP.

The plug's primary purpose is to cap off the upper, passenger, nipple on the radiator when the water inlet line is routed directly to [your current "hole" on] the WP.

I do not think so, as that flange on the WP is not under pressure. It's an inlet [water return], not an exit, from the WP. Van, correct me if I'm wrong.

Van

You're right, the coolant flow goes from the back of the head, through the heater core, along the pipe above the exhaust manifold, and then to the water pump.