Single Stage Paint Jobs- Post Yours
#1
Single Stage Paint Jobs- Post Yours
Hey guys I'm sure there's a few on here and if anyone has a single stage paint job (Not Base, Clear) on their car please post a pic. Thanks!
#2
actually, this is timely - I need to do some painting on my 944, and I'd rather use a single stage paint, it needs to be something forgiving like lacquer because I will not have a paint booth - I do have decent spray equipment though. I need to paint one panel at a time as I get it done, otherwise the car will look like a mess forever.
#4
actually, this is timely - I need to do some painting on my 944, and I'd rather use a single stage paint, it needs to be something forgiving like lacquer because I will not have a paint booth - I do have decent spray equipment though. I need to paint one panel at a time as I get it done, otherwise the car will look like a mess forever.
Make a paint booth out of gray 3/4" PVS pipe and 6 mil clear plastic sheeting from Home Depot, in a hoop house. YouTube for that.
Use later to grow tomatoes.
Back to single stage paint: What works, what doesn't work, with the factory paint as base? It's important to have chemical compatibility with what's already on the car. Ideas?
#6
There is a shop here in Austin that does very low cost single stage urethane. I saw a car painted there yesterday, the day after the paint was laid down. It was a metallic gunmetal. I looked it over pretty carefully and it looked nice, no overspray and no orange peel. So low cost single stage jobs can look good. I was pretty bent on painting my car myself but at their prices, I'm going to bring my car in to them. You couldnt even plastidip a car yourself for less then they are charging to spray the entire car.
#7
I really would love to do the gt3 orange, only thing is my car is zermatt which means unless the do the egine bay and inside the cargo/passenger area it will look funny. I thought about getting some black paint and doing the inside caro and engine bay so atleast its neutral but dont know if its wise.
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#10
This orange is a stock Ford color, used on the Mustang. This is Nason 2K single stage. This is the best it ever looked, before I exposed it to "the track". There's an article on my website about the paint job. In short, 1 day to scrub every surface with sandpaper, one day to tape and mask, and the last day to spray. It's a 10 footer.
#11
This orange is a stock Ford color, used on the Mustang. This is Nason 2K single stage. This is the best it ever looked, before I exposed it to "the track". There's an article on my website about the paint job. In short, 1 day to scrub every surface with sandpaper, one day to tape and mask, and the last day to spray. It's a 10 footer.
It's been recommended to me, but I have no experience with it.
Durable? Tough? Scratch and fade resistant? Easy to work with? Cure time? Cost?
#12
DuPont Nason 2k:
I have gone years without washing it and it still looked great. It is a gummy paint so it doesn't scratch or oxidize, but is hard to polish and requires certain products to bring the gloss back if you plan to sand it. My Guards Red cost $300 for a gallon. I had no problem spraying it in my backyard, but would suggest using a slow reducer. Afterwards I used 2k grit to get rid of the orange peel and 3M products to bring the shine back. While Nason can embarrass some clear coats, it won't ever look as dark or rich as the original enamel.
Also make sure to be safe when using 2k, as it is very dangerous stuff!
I have gone years without washing it and it still looked great. It is a gummy paint so it doesn't scratch or oxidize, but is hard to polish and requires certain products to bring the gloss back if you plan to sand it. My Guards Red cost $300 for a gallon. I had no problem spraying it in my backyard, but would suggest using a slow reducer. Afterwards I used 2k grit to get rid of the orange peel and 3M products to bring the shine back. While Nason can embarrass some clear coats, it won't ever look as dark or rich as the original enamel.
Also make sure to be safe when using 2k, as it is very dangerous stuff!
#13
PHP Code:
Durable? Tough? Scratch and fade resistant? Easy to work with? Cure time? Cost?
I think its way too soon to evaluate durability and fade resistance. That should take years to show up. I've had the paint job for 3 years and those are not issues so far. I also had a Jag sedan painted with black Nason and it looked great and was holding up fine when I sold it. Easy to work with? I guess so. I can't blame my runs and the bugs landing on it on the paint! Cure time is quick enough. They work on keeping cure times quick because these paints are set up for production shops that want high throughput. My only consideration with cure time was to get it tack free as soon as possible to repel dust and bugs.
I've painted cars in a field and the results showed it You really need to build a tent/booth if you want any hope of keeping the crap out of your paint job.
Tough and scratch resistant. It's not powder coat or Imron tough but tough enough I guess. As they allways say, spraying the paint is the easy part, it's the prep work that's key.
BTW Autobodystore.com has a great forum that if you hang around long enough you'll pick up some good words of wisdom.
#15
+1 to edredas. He correctly mentions that all paints where you add a catalyst should be treated as toxic when inhaled. At a minimum get a good quality respirator with the proper filters. Do a fit test. Put it on and put your head over something with a distinctive smell, like a bowl with some rubbing alcohol poured in it. If you get a whiff of odor, the mask isn't fit correctly and you are at risk. I have a full beard so I sprang for the supplied air system with a hood and a long hose and an air pump far away from the scene of the painting. Works like a charm. Also, my supply house says reds are the most expensive. I wouldn't let price sway me but Nason is considered to be a "good value".