Single Stage Paint Jobs- Post Yours
09-25-2013, 02:26 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
+1 to edredas. He correctly mentions that all paints where you add a catalyst should be treated as toxic when inhaled. At a minimum get a good quality respirator with the proper filters. Do a fit test. Put it on and put your head over something with a distinctive smell, like a bowl with some rubbing alcohol poured in it. If you get a whiff of odor, the mask isn't fit correctly and you are at risk. I have a full beard so I sprang for the supplied air system with a hood and a long hose and an air pump far away from the scene of the painting. Works like a charm. Also, my supply house says reds are the most expensive. I wouldn't let price sway me but Nason is considered to be a "good value".
Or, just use a clear plastic bag over my head, fed fresh filtered air as per above, so I get positive pressure. Clear bag exhausts to coveralls, so the coveralls also get positive pressure. That way, no paint or chemicals can get into my lungs or onto my skin. Hoop house is also under slight positive pressure and has a filter so particulates are caught before getting out to the atmosphere.
Plan B is to use paint of known safety. Anybody here know of decent, affordable paint that works compatibly with the original Porsche paint on the car, yet is safe to use by amateurs with good results?
09-25-2013, 03:03 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Durham Region/GTA East, Canada
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Or just put on a quality mask and go for it in your garage like I did a number of years ago. Single stage 99K black by DuPont. Please note that I am only painting the back half of the car here after I had a custom rear fascia fabricated. Please also note, that I have refinish paint training, and am able to compensate for less than ideal conditions. This was done on a warm/dry spring morning with the garage door open. It was a quick job for me, and I was only interested in a 5footer paint job.
09-25-2013, 05:28 PM
#19
Intermediate
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
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2k is really dusty, almost to the point where you can't see when you're in an enclosed space. It will get all over your goggles and pass right through any filter type mask. Anything that it touches must be discarded. So, if you must be in a closed space, you MUST wear a suit and use a fresh air mask. Also, make sure nothing you want to keep is remotely near-by.
Because of that, I choose to work outside in the open. While bugs did get into my paint, the biggest enemy was the humidity. Had I used a slow reducer, it would have laid smoother.
Here's a shot just after I started putting the car back together.
I let the paint cure two weeks before cutting it. This is how it looks nearly four years later.
So, even if it turns out horrible, just make sure that you get it nice and thick so it can be corrected. Also, don't let the last coat dry before doing the next.
I hope that helps, you with some of your questions. If you have anymore feel free to ask. I've been spraying other types of paint for years, but this was the first time I using urethane and had to pretty much figure everything out on my own and it was not easy. I did not like this paint at first, but you just have to do things different.
Because of that, I choose to work outside in the open. While bugs did get into my paint, the biggest enemy was the humidity. Had I used a slow reducer, it would have laid smoother.
Here's a shot just after I started putting the car back together.
I let the paint cure two weeks before cutting it. This is how it looks nearly four years later.
So, even if it turns out horrible, just make sure that you get it nice and thick so it can be corrected. Also, don't let the last coat dry before doing the next.
I hope that helps, you with some of your questions. If you have anymore feel free to ask. I've been spraying other types of paint for years, but this was the first time I using urethane and had to pretty much figure everything out on my own and it was not easy. I did not like this paint at first, but you just have to do things different.
09-26-2013, 09:03 AM
#22
Race Car
Thread Starter
09-26-2013, 11:47 AM
#23
Rennlist Member
Look, I've painted 4 cars total in my life. So I'm not an expert. But for sure there is a steep learning curve. Each one was better than before but all have imperfections. It's hard to hit one out of the park your first time at bat!
Edredas, humidity in NC? Surely you jest
The point is there are a lot of variables and it is hard to get it to all come together on your first job.
2K (read 2 paint komponents mixed together) urethane paints contain isocyanates. Google this term and you can understand the nature of this beast and necessary precautions. These paints cure by a chemical reaction.
1K paints cure by evaporation and generally don't contain isocyanates. Think enamals and lacquers. They are "safe" but have their own drawbacks.
One option to consider is doing all the prep work and then convincing a local pro to just shoot the paint for you. Many I talked to don't like to do this because if the prep work is faulty they feel like they'll get blamed, through no fault of their own. I can see their point. But these guys shoot paint a lot and understand the variables. Might be a route to go.
Edredas also mentions "cutting" his paint after a 2 week cure. Cutting aka color sanding is a great friend to the amateur painting as it allows many blems such as orange peel to be removed. There is a lot of info at autobodystore.com about this and other painting topics.
Overalls: OEMS, etc. have found that the vast majority of the dust, etc that winds up in the paint job comes from the clothing of the painter. So all pros wear a new, out of the bag, clean Tyvek overall. It even comes with a little hoodie. So the overalls keep the bad paint off your skin and keep the crap that was on your Tshirt out of the paint job. Win-Win.
There's much to learn. Keep after it!
Edredas, humidity in NC? Surely you jest
The point is there are a lot of variables and it is hard to get it to all come together on your first job.2K (read 2 paint komponents mixed together) urethane paints contain isocyanates. Google this term and you can understand the nature of this beast and necessary precautions. These paints cure by a chemical reaction.
1K paints cure by evaporation and generally don't contain isocyanates. Think enamals and lacquers. They are "safe" but have their own drawbacks.
One option to consider is doing all the prep work and then convincing a local pro to just shoot the paint for you. Many I talked to don't like to do this because if the prep work is faulty they feel like they'll get blamed, through no fault of their own. I can see their point. But these guys shoot paint a lot and understand the variables. Might be a route to go.
Edredas also mentions "cutting" his paint after a 2 week cure. Cutting aka color sanding is a great friend to the amateur painting as it allows many blems such as orange peel to be removed. There is a lot of info at autobodystore.com about this and other painting topics.
Overalls: OEMS, etc. have found that the vast majority of the dust, etc that winds up in the paint job comes from the clothing of the painter. So all pros wear a new, out of the bag, clean Tyvek overall. It even comes with a little hoodie. So the overalls keep the bad paint off your skin and keep the crap that was on your Tshirt out of the paint job. Win-Win.
There's much to learn. Keep after it!
09-26-2013, 11:56 AM
#24
Race Car
Thread Starter
I'm not worried about painting the car, I've painted several but a proper color change requires the engine bay, cargo areas and door jambs. If I change the color I would have to either paint those to match or do a neutral color like black.
