View Poll Results: After changing the oil pan gasket, was it leak-free?
Yes, dry as a bone with no leaks!
36
75.00%
No, it still leaked!
12
25.00%
Voters: 48. You may not vote on this poll
Oil Pan Gasket Poll
10-22-2011, 05:59 PM
#46
I have got a good idea of what to do from all the tips including yours ( I like that taping the torque sequence to the pan 
So let me understand
I know that there's several opinions on what to use for sealing the corners but I believe the important things are: Don't use anything that's silicone based, razor off the engine and oil pan surfaces, wipe down thoroughly with acetone, CLEAN the oilpan gasket with alcohol (the rubbing type, not the drinking kind), install it with either bolts in the holes on the pan or dental floss.
Ok got all of this, just in the corners
But let it set overnight for the sealant to glue it to the pan and find a way to clamp it lightly in the corners to make sure its a good set.
So just let it stay overnight softly clamped to the lower pan and the with the dental floss and or screws mount it .... ?
Put a thin coat of the adhesive on the corners and lay on. Be meticulous about the torquing sequence from finger tightening to actual use of the torque wrench.
So then put Yamabond/Hondabond/ Dow 730, on the top crankcase in the corners and push the pan up into it and then hand tighten the bolts in the whole tightening sequence
I am a transplanted New Yorker ( '91) but the weather here is just crazy, and its hard to imagine moving back, with weather like this !
Yea, I am a ***** .. I should just get that I am just so afraid if it leaks I will blame myself for not using the factory stuff... Believe me its very hard for me to part with money
Best regards guys
Ed
So let me understand
I know that there's several opinions on what to use for sealing the corners but I believe the important things are: Don't use anything that's silicone based, razor off the engine and oil pan surfaces, wipe down thoroughly with acetone, CLEAN the oilpan gasket with alcohol (the rubbing type, not the drinking kind), install it with either bolts in the holes on the pan or dental floss.
Ok got all of this, just in the corners
But let it set overnight for the sealant to glue it to the pan and find a way to clamp it lightly in the corners to make sure its a good set.
So just let it stay overnight softly clamped to the lower pan and the with the dental floss and or screws mount it .... ?
Put a thin coat of the adhesive on the corners and lay on. Be meticulous about the torquing sequence from finger tightening to actual use of the torque wrench.
So then put Yamabond/Hondabond/ Dow 730, on the top crankcase in the corners and push the pan up into it and then hand tighten the bolts in the whole tightening sequence
I am a transplanted New Yorker ( '91) but the weather here is just crazy, and its hard to imagine moving back, with weather like this !
Yea, I am a ***** .. I should just get that I am just so afraid if it leaks I will blame myself for not using the factory stuff... Believe me its very hard for me to part with money
Best regards guys
Ed
10-22-2011, 07:32 PM
#47
Drifting
You're correct in all your assumptions. I used the Victor Reinz gasket which was flat on cardboard when arrived. That was no problem since I centered the arch in the oil pan and tacked it in place with the HondaBond (a big tube was about $13 at the Honda motorcycle dealer part dept) and made sure it was still there when I put a soft clamp on the corners. (put very thin application on both the gasket and the pan, let set for a few minutes then install) The bolts in the gasket made sure the ends were properly placed while the glue dried. Remember to clean the gasket with denatured alcohol. One thing I also did was to write the bolt #'s on the pan with a majic marker because it makes it easier to find the proper bolt without moving from one side of the vehicle to the other. It gets real tiresome after a while. If it bothers you to leave the numbers there when you're done, they can be wiped of with acetone.
After I put all the suspension back together and refilled the powersteering reservoir (1/2) quart, I exercised the steering wheel full left and right to bleed the air out of the system. (You'll have to disconned the hose from the pump when you drop the crossmember). It buzzed like hell so I stopped after a couple of cycles and looked into the reservoir. There were air bubbles in there and I added another pint of fluid. Then I exercised the steering a few times without the pump running and then started the motor and did it again. it got progressively better and was completely normal after a couple of cycles. After you're happy with the feel of the steering, add more fluid to bring it up to the mark. Use Dextron III ATF ONLY!. Other types will cause problems in the steering system and you don't want that. Have fun. If you have any questions during the process, contact me: mytrpleven@aol.com
After I put all the suspension back together and refilled the powersteering reservoir (1/2) quart, I exercised the steering wheel full left and right to bleed the air out of the system. (You'll have to disconned the hose from the pump when you drop the crossmember). It buzzed like hell so I stopped after a couple of cycles and looked into the reservoir. There were air bubbles in there and I added another pint of fluid. Then I exercised the steering a few times without the pump running and then started the motor and did it again. it got progressively better and was completely normal after a couple of cycles. After you're happy with the feel of the steering, add more fluid to bring it up to the mark. Use Dextron III ATF ONLY!. Other types will cause problems in the steering system and you don't want that. Have fun. If you have any questions during the process, contact me: mytrpleven@aol.com
Last edited by mytrplseven; 10-22-2011 at 07:39 PM. Reason: additional info
10-22-2011, 08:13 PM
#48
Rennlist Member
There seems to be a number of Yamambonds ? Which one did you use...
You're correct in all your assumptions. I used the Victor Reinz gasket which was flat on cardboard when arrived. That was no problem since I centered the arch in the oil pan and tacked it in place with the HondaBond (a big tube was about $13 at the Honda motorcycle dealer part dept) and made sure it was still there when I put a soft clamp on the corners. (put very thin application on both the gasket and the pan, let set for a few minutes then install) The bolts in the gasket made sure the ends were properly placed while the glue dried. Remember to clean the gasket with denatured alcohol. One thing I also did was to write the bolt #'s on the pan with a majic marker because it makes it easier to find the proper bolt without moving from one side of the vehicle to the other. It gets real tiresome after a while. If it bothers you to leave the numbers there when you're done, they can be wiped of with acetone.
After I put all the suspension back together and refilled the powersteering reservoir (1/2) quart, I exercised the steering wheel full left and right to bleed the air out of the system. (You'll have to disconned the hose from the pump when you drop the crossmember). It buzzed like hell so I stopped after a couple of cycles and looked into the reservoir. There were air bubbles in there and I added another pint of fluid. Then I exercised the steering a few times without the pump running and then started the motor and did it again. it got progressively better and was completely normal after a couple of cycles. After you're happy with the feel of the steering, add more fluid to bring it up to the mark. Use Dextron III ATF ONLY!. Other types will cause problems in the steering system and you don't want that. Have fun. If you have any questions during the process, contact me: [email]mytrpleven@aol.com[/email]
After I put all the suspension back together and refilled the powersteering reservoir (1/2) quart, I exercised the steering wheel full left and right to bleed the air out of the system. (You'll have to disconned the hose from the pump when you drop the crossmember). It buzzed like hell so I stopped after a couple of cycles and looked into the reservoir. There were air bubbles in there and I added another pint of fluid. Then I exercised the steering a few times without the pump running and then started the motor and did it again. it got progressively better and was completely normal after a couple of cycles. After you're happy with the feel of the steering, add more fluid to bring it up to the mark. Use Dextron III ATF ONLY!. Other types will cause problems in the steering system and you don't want that. Have fun. If you have any questions during the process, contact me: [email]mytrpleven@aol.com[/email]
My steering reservoir did the same thing, when I had removed the reservoir tank and drained the system ... Yes, one has to refill it, after some use ... I like the numbering of the bolts idea 
What Hondabond did you wind up using? There are also numerous ones ....
Thanks guys
Regards
Ed
10-22-2011, 08:52 PM
#49
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I used Yamabond 4, very light coat all the way around pan, let gasket sit on pan over night, then light Yamabond on corners, install pan and torque factory sequence.
Bone dry for many years now.
Bone dry for many years now.
10-23-2011, 02:00 AM
#50
Rennlist Member
10-23-2011, 11:06 AM
#51
Drifting
It was a tube of HondaBond that was about 3 to 4 ounces and cost me around $13 at the Honda Motorcycle parts counter. Here's a pic:
Last edited by mytrplseven; 11-19-2011 at 03:49 PM.
10-23-2011, 01:32 PM
#52
Drifting
Well, nuts! There's a leak back there and I suspected that since all the other seals were leaking that this one would, as well. The rear main crankshaft seal is leaking. I checked all the oil pan gasket points of typical issue and they're tight. When I took the shield off between the bellhousing and the rear of the oil pan gasket I could see oil on the shaft just where it goes into the flywheel. Yippee, now I get to pull the rear tranny and replace all the oil covered cv joints, transmission gaskets and maybe (oh, no) the clutch assembly $$$. Guess it's time for a new post on this issue.
10-23-2011, 04:01 PM
#53
Rennlist Member
Well, nuts! There's a leak back there and I suspected that since all the other seals were leaking that this one would, as well. The rear main crankshaft seal is leaking. I checked all the oil pan gasket points of typical issue and they're tight. When I took the shield off between the bellhousing and the rear of the oil pan gasket I could see oil on the shaft just where it goes into the flywheel. Yippee, now I get to pull the rear tranny and replace all the oil covered cv joints, transmission gaskets and maybe (oh, no) the clutch assembly $$$. Guess it's time for a new post on this issue.
Tom was kind enough to lend me his ultra violet leak detection kit ... Which is really helpful ....
I hope mine is indeed the oil pan and not the RMS ... or even worse both .....
Sorry for your issues ...
Good luck
Ed
10-24-2011, 11:19 AM
#54
I used Yamabond 4. I chose not to let it sit on the pan overnight, as I wanted a little bit of movement in the pan so that it would sit in the grooves at the front and rear. I did let it sit after I torqued it down for a full 24 hours before adding any oil, and am bone dry. Used a very thin layer across the entire sealing surface, top and bottom. In all honesty, the Silastic stuff seems like a waste of money, even if that's what Porsche calls for.
10-24-2011, 01:00 PM
#56
If you are running a completely stock car, you have to drop the crossmember and crossover. You can just disconnect the control arms at the castor block, diconnect the rack from the intermediate shaft, and let the crossmembe hang (the sway bar needs to be removed). To get the crossover off, the intake has to come off. It is a somewhat involved job. If you have the crossmember off, it would be the perfect time to add a two piece unit from LR, as it would facilitate easier removal next time (that is if you expect to have to do it again, or you track your car and like to inspect the bottom end).
My two piece crossover and three piece crossmember made the job way easier than the last time I had to do it.
My two piece crossover and three piece crossmember made the job way easier than the last time I had to do it.
10-24-2011, 03:29 PM
#58
Rennlist Member
I used Yamabond 4. I chose not to let it sit on the pan overnight, as I wanted a little bit of movement in the pan so that it would sit in the grooves at the front and rear. I did let it sit after I torqued it down for a full 24 hours before adding any oil, and am bone dry. Used a very thin layer across the entire sealing surface, top and bottom. In all honesty, the Silastic stuff seems like a waste of money, even if that's what Porsche calls for.
If you are running a completely stock car, you have to drop the crossmember and crossover. You can just disconnect the control arms at the castor block, diconnect the rack from the intermediate shaft, and let the crossmembe hang (the sway bar needs to be removed). To get the crossover off, the intake has to come off. It is a somewhat involved job. If you have the crossmember off, it would be the perfect time to add a two piece unit from LR, as it would facilitate easier removal next time (that is if you expect to have to do it again, or you track your car and like to inspect the bottom end).
My two piece crossover and three piece crossmember made the job way easier than the last time I had to do it.
My two piece crossover and three piece crossmember made the job way easier than the last time I had to do it.
) They are also sold together as a kit also for like 65....
Regards
Ed