944V8inDFW

Now I just figured out what was in the pickup screen of the last 944 engine I tore down. I thought it was plastiguage pieces. Friggin evergreen mint floss, maybe 10-12 strands. WTF.

FRporscheman

I can see how it would be a PITA to remove all that stuff if the only purpose it to replace the oil pan gasket, but when I did it I was redoing pretty much everything so the pan gasket was like a WYAIT thing. 15k miles, THANK GOD it's dry!

951Saga

Crystal clear now Tom.


My first one failed after about 500 miles. I unknowingly damaged the gasket when the rear arched section of the gasket shifted inside the pan as I raised it into position. Once I began to torque the bolts I noticed the pan was not seated correctly so I dropped it down a bit to reposition the gasket. I should have pulled it out completely to inspect.

Both my gaskets were packaged in bags with the arches bent inward, so they had a tendency to keep that curve when set on the pan.

For the second gasket I used some high contact tape on the sides of the arched sections to the pan which was removed once the pan was seated evenly.

Here is the torn gasket

mytrplseven

Following the suggestions of my peers, I decided to R&R other stuff while the suspension was dropped. I pulled the con rod bearings and they didn't look bad at all, even after 122k miles. New bearings installed with assembly lube and new bolts. Both sides of the pan gasket were wiped off with denatured alcohol to take the slippery mold release off. I got a tube of HondaBond (similar to YamaBond) and did a thin coat on the gasket and the pan at the corners and also a small dab on the arch to make sure it registers properly when I reinstall the pan. I put a light clamp on the corners to hold them there while they dry overnight. Not enough to put a dent or set in the gasket. Dental floss at every other bolt hole and all surfaces of block and pan were razor bladed to make sure they were clean and then wiped them down with acetone.Today, I'll put a light dab of HondaBond on the engine block corners and the outer portion of the pan gasket and begin the installation. I'm hoping all this meticulous preparation and research will bear fruit. I don't want to have to redo this.

Yummybud924

I did mine 4 years ago and it doesn't leak a drop. but ... I do have a slight problem it is bulging out a bit in one area. I did use a torque wrench and followed the tightening sequence.

also I used a good amount of permatex import grade Right Stuff sealant on both sides of the gasket to make sure it never leaks........ you got to be careful though you don't want it oozing into the pan and having chunks of selant in your oil pan. I spread a thin amount on both sides and hand tightened then fully tightened when it was drying a bit. I still got a good about oozing out but I won't have to do it again.

the hardest part for me was to get the engine to sit back correctly on the motor mounts.

mytrplseven

I'm dreading putting the front suspension back into position. I know that trying to "register" the whole mess with the little holes in the engine mounts is going to cause me to create a whole new 4 letter vocabulary. Patience. patience, patience. I know that eventually I'll get it right but I'm still not enthused about the prospect. Replacing the boots on the steering rack and lower ball joints and the tie rod ends before I put it back in. I was temped, however, to start the motor while it was supported by the engine support bar but decided to be patient and let the pan gasket set overnight and then put the oil in, raise the supsension and then drop the car to the wheels and give it a shot. Am I worried?? YES! Even though I've been meticulous about gasket preparation.

Crazy Eddie

I will be watching this ..I have this dreaded task ahead of me ....

OH Good Luck

Darwantae951

Well...

I can at last report that my oil pan gasket is not leaking!

Crazy Eddie

Hi Five!!

mytrplseven

Good on ya! I hope 10,000 miles from now, it's still dry. We hardworking 944 types need success to make our ownership experiences rewarding. Might have to wait a day to put the suspension back together. Major rain event passing through Florida and even with light rain yesterday, my legs were wet from sticking out from under the car while doing the pan torquing process. With a hard rain now upon me, I'm not sure I want to work in a "wet suit".

mytrplseven

I let the pan gasket sit overnight with HondaBond (like Yamabond 4) on the oil pan and gasket with a dab of it on the arch to make sure it didn't miss the channel when I installed it. By the way, I wiped the gasket down with denatured alcohol to get the slippery mold release off. After razoring, wiping down the block with acetone, put a slight dab of HondaBond in the corners and down the side 2 bolts and installed it and after spending a couple of hours tightening and torquing let it sit a couple of days before adding oil.

Put the suspension in today and added new boots for the steering rack, lower ball joints and new tie rod ends. The hardest part was trying to get the steering shaft back on. What made it work was , cleaning the spines with wire brush, making a registration mark on the clamp and the shaft. After cussing for an hour I realized that the clamp was at an angle to the steering rack splined shaft. So, I loosened the rack bolts and tilted the rack to line the shaft with the clamp and (wd-40'd) it slid right on. A little trick there for those of you brave enough to do this while the motor is in the car.

Added oil and in spite of what the manual and others have said, it took 7 quarts with the filter. I don't understand it. I let it sit for an hour before I rechecked the level. Oh well.

Tomorrow I have to add power steering fluid and put the belt back on and I'm done!!

Crazy Eddie

Luck dog !!
I found that the car once it runs for a day or so it will take more oil,,,,
Thanks for the info !! I just ordered the oil pan gasket and motor mounts, etc... The rest on Monday (Bearings and nuts )
I think I am going to go with the Dow 730, although it seems people have a lot of luck with Permatex® Ultra Grey® or the Yamambond/Hondabond
It kills me to spend that kind of money but it would kill me a lot worse if it leaks !!
Regards
Ed

mytrplseven

Keeping things in perspective I felt that this was a great therapy project, in spite of the aggrevation. I learn so much from working on this car. I know that there's several opinions on what to use for sealing the corners but I believe the important things are: Don't use anything that's silicone based, razor off the engine and oil pan surfaces, wipe down thoroughly with acetone, CLEAN the oilpan gasket with alcohol (the rubbing type, not the drinking kind), install it with either bolts in the holes on the pan or dental floss. But let it set overnight for the sealant to glue it to the pan and find a way to clamp it lightly in the corners to make sure its a good set. Dental floss is a necessity for installing the pan and do a dry run on the procedure for getting the pan into position. By the way, if you have the oil level sensor on your car (there's a yellow wire going to a sensor on the passenger side of the oil pan that just pull off) remove the three bolts and pull it out, rotating it about 90 degrees aft, noting the position for reinserting. It interferes with the oil pickup assembly and you'll never get the pan off if you don't. Moving the AC compressor out of the way was a God-send. I taped the picture of the oil pan torquing sequence from Clark's garage onto the bottom of the pan soi it was easy to reference under there. Put a thin coat of the adhesive on the corners and lay on. Be meticulous about the torquing sequence from finger tightening to actual use of the torque wrench. You'll notice that after you've been around the pan one time, the next time all the bolts are loose again. That's normal and why it takes so long to do it right. Have fun. Hey! I just noticed that you're in Los Altos. I went to Foothill College and lived in Mt. View. I have a daughter who lives in San Mateo. I really miss California.

Darwantae951

I went with yamabond and the results were fantastic.

Crazy Eddie

I have got a good idea of what to do from all the tips including yours ( I like that taping the torque sequence to the pan
So let me understand
I know that there's several opinions on what to use for sealing the corners but I believe the important things are: Don't use anything that's silicone based, razor off the engine and oil pan surfaces, wipe down thoroughly with acetone, CLEAN the oilpan gasket with alcohol (the rubbing type, not the drinking kind), install it with either bolts in the holes on the pan or dental floss.
Ok got all of this, just in the corners

But let it set overnight for the sealant to glue it to the pan and find a way to clamp it lightly in the corners to make sure its a good set.
So just let it stay overnight softly clamped to the lower pan and the with the dental floss and or screws mount it .... ?

Put a thin coat of the adhesive on the corners and lay on. Be meticulous about the torquing sequence from finger tightening to actual use of the torque wrench.
So then put Yamabond/Hondabond/ Dow 730, on the top crankcase in the corners and push the pan up into it and then hand tighten the bolts in the whole tightening sequence

I am a transplanted New Yorker ( '91) but the weather here is just crazy, and its hard to imagine moving back, with weather like this !
Yea, I am a ***** .. I should just get that I am just so afraid if it leaks I will blame myself for not using the factory stuff... Believe me its very hard for me to part with money
Best regards guys
Ed