View Poll Results: After changing the oil pan gasket, was it leak-free?
Yes, dry as a bone with no leaks!
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36
75.00%
No, it still leaked!
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12
25.00%
Voters: 48. You may not vote on this poll
Oil Pan Gasket Poll
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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If you have changed your oil pan gasket with the motor in the car, please respond to this simple poll.... Thanks.
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#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#6
Burning Brakes
#7
Instructor
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I will be able to tell you after I get mine back, though mine is an 86 and had the old style heat shield. Getting that thing replaced by the newer iteration of it that prevent a lot more heat on the gasket.
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#8
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#10
Instructor
#12
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Nope, first time I did it was on the stand and used gasket maker on the corners. Second time was under the car, no gasket maker. Leak free both times. The important thing is to tighten each fastener over and over in the correct tightening pattern until each bolt is tightened to the "correct" stage. When the first "lap" is done, the center bolt will no longer be finger tight, it'll be loose. So in other words, it'll take 5-6 "laps" to get it to finger tight, another 5-6 to get it to 3ftlbs, and another 5-6 to get it to 7ft-lbs (or whatever the correct value). All this will take about an hour under the car, or 15min on the stand. Also, use dental floss to tie the gasket to the oil pan, start your bolts, then cut the floss out. That'll make sure the gasket stays in the correct place.
#13
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Did mine laying on my back in the garage 3 weeks ago. The hardest part was getting the new gasket lined up. I thought for certain it'd leak, but it is bone dry.
Follow the torquing procedure to the T. I was unable to get the torque wrench on 3 bolts so I practice getting the feel of 3lbs and 6lbs on the bolts prior to each one. Used wrench to back off bolt and then tightened back down to what I thought was 6lbs and tested with torque wrench. I was pretty much spot on so I felt good with this method.
BTW...the reason I had to replace mine. Gotta love the extra tabs on aftermarket A/C compressors!
Follow the torquing procedure to the T. I was unable to get the torque wrench on 3 bolts so I practice getting the feel of 3lbs and 6lbs on the bolts prior to each one. Used wrench to back off bolt and then tightened back down to what I thought was 6lbs and tested with torque wrench. I was pretty much spot on so I felt good with this method.
BTW...the reason I had to replace mine. Gotta love the extra tabs on aftermarket A/C compressors!
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#14
Rennlist Member
#15
Nordschleife Master
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Main problems I had and not mentioned yet:
Make sure you clean all the threads and bolts before you start torquing. It's difficult to do thoroughly with the engine in the car but take your time and get them really clean. You are only torquing at a low rate and any deposits on the threads will give a false reading.
Get a suitable torque wrench, one that has the readings you want to measure at about it's central range.
Make sure you clean all the threads and bolts before you start torquing. It's difficult to do thoroughly with the engine in the car but take your time and get them really clean. You are only torquing at a low rate and any deposits on the threads will give a false reading.
Get a suitable torque wrench, one that has the readings you want to measure at about it's central range.