Tom M'Guinn

If you have changed your oil pan gasket with the motor in the car, please respond to this simple poll.... Thanks.

Darwantae951

Having problems?

I'll submit my vote tomorrow after I actually fire it up...please cross your fingers..

MAGK944

I would rather reindex my torsion bars and replace my torque tube twice than do that job again.

Tom M'Guinn

Fingers firmly crossed.

No problems on my end. I posted the poll to help a friend remain grounded in reality.

Darwantae951

I think I know who you are talking about

951Saga

I got mine right the second time… which is why I also installed the LR three piece cross member and crossover pipe.

Medski

I will be able to tell you after I get mine back, though mine is an 86 and had the old style heat shield. Getting that thing replaced by the newer iteration of it that prevent a lot more heat on the gasket.

Darwantae951

I own a late car, what heat shield is different on early models?

Tom M'Guinn

I should have been clearer -- I was asking if folks were able to get it leak-free the first time, or if they had to try multiple times...

Medski

Not sure at what point it changed. I'll dig more into that one when I get to the garage.

Tom M'Guinn

Intersting. So no one had one leak the first time after changing it.

St3mpy

Nope, first time I did it was on the stand and used gasket maker on the corners. Second time was under the car, no gasket maker. Leak free both times. The important thing is to tighten each fastener over and over in the correct tightening pattern until each bolt is tightened to the "correct" stage. When the first "lap" is done, the center bolt will no longer be finger tight, it'll be loose. So in other words, it'll take 5-6 "laps" to get it to finger tight, another 5-6 to get it to 3ftlbs, and another 5-6 to get it to 7ft-lbs (or whatever the correct value). All this will take about an hour under the car, or 15min on the stand. Also, use dental floss to tie the gasket to the oil pan, start your bolts, then cut the floss out. That'll make sure the gasket stays in the correct place.

Jason-85944

Did mine laying on my back in the garage 3 weeks ago. The hardest part was getting the new gasket lined up. I thought for certain it'd leak, but it is bone dry.

Follow the torquing procedure to the T. I was unable to get the torque wrench on 3 bolts so I practice getting the feel of 3lbs and 6lbs on the bolts prior to each one. Used wrench to back off bolt and then tightened back down to what I thought was 6lbs and tested with torque wrench. I was pretty much spot on so I felt good with this method.

BTW...the reason I had to replace mine. Gotta love the extra tabs on aftermarket A/C compressors!

Crazy Eddie

lol

MAGK944

Main problems I had and not mentioned yet:

Make sure you clean all the threads and bolts before you start torquing. It's difficult to do thoroughly with the engine in the car but take your time and get them really clean. You are only torquing at a low rate and any deposits on the threads will give a false reading.

Get a suitable torque wrench, one that has the readings you want to measure at about it's central range.