dirtyTurbo

I have the opposite of what most people have with lifter problems. Everything is quiet until the car warms up, then they all start making noise. I don't know what oil is in there at them moment but it may be on the lighter side, I'll check in the morning

Euronavy

i have the exact same problem! it bugs the crap out of me! my oil is right where it should be maybe even a bit on the high side on my dipstick, so its not oil level.

dirtyTurbo

I'm thinking thicker oil maybe what oil do you use?

max_boost951

What oil are you running?
What's your oil pressure gauge say?

doabarrelroll

Let me guess, none of you have ever changed your rod bearings have you? This is the exact sort of sound that KILLED my engine.

I bet it is like this, after about 8 minutes of driving, you'll pull up to a stop sign or signal and your car will sound like "tick, tick, tick, tick" and then as you set off, the sound will be in sync with acceleration.

dirtyTurbo

max_boost951: I use mobil 1 5w-30. The pressure is right where it should be. 5 bars cold idling. 2 bars idling and 4 bars cruising warm

doabarrelroll: I have changed my rod bearings, but not on this engine. Could you elaborate? It is just like you described

V2Rocket

try something thicker, maybe 20w50...whats the temperature like right now in your area? if its 40* plus then try it.

also, clicking could be injectors, they are LOUD. get a wood stick and put it on various locations on the cam tower and put the other end to your ear and listen for the sound you are hearing. then put it on each injector and listen again

whalebird

worn pistons/piston slap often gets worse with heat; that was my problem. It behaved very much like you describe.

doabarrelroll

After an oil change and a quick tune up of my S engine (16v), I noticed it started to tick after 10 minutes of driving. Some days it would be louder than others. No one I have ever seen on any forum has described something like it and, from my best guess, led to a spun rod bearing.

I would start your car and lift the hood and truly get a sense of where the noise is coming from. See if you can get your ear near the oil pan to get a clear noise.

Injector noise is WAY quieter than any rod bearing noise I have heard. If you keep driving it, the noise will get worse most likely and I suppose you'll see a dip in oil pressure.

How many miles are on your car? Is it between 100k and 125k?

whalebird

for diagnosis purposes, whilst running and making the noise, pull the injector plugs one at a time and see if/when, and on which cylinder it goes away.

dirtyTurbo

I know what the injectors sound like. This is different and is actually louder in the car than outside the car. I have one of those fancy mechanics stethoscopes I'll try, but you guys are scaring me so an oil change may be in order before it heats up again.

I don't think it is a rod bearing noise, that sound felt like a punch in the soul

The motor is from a porsche recycler, so obviously it has very low miles (60k when I bought it)

xschop

Sounds just like your flat tappet cam is getting fried because of the synthetic oil you use. All commercial oils are lacking adequate zinc and phosphorous levels, the synths are worse unless they can state 1400ppm Zinc. Add ZDDP before you have to rebuild your engine.

Rock

The lifters in one of my Turbo engines did this. I dont know why it did this. It was lifter tick it was not injector tick, or rod knock blah blah blah. The engine ran this way for 3-4 years.

It usually did it when the car was really hot and had been driven harder, or when the oil was getting old. The only remedy I had found was to change the oil, which it did come back after sometime if I did that.

I even replaced the entire cam tower and lifters with a set I know was good. Never figured it out but It was annoying.

xschop

Did you add the same type oil after the new cam tower and TAPPETS? The 944 engine is a TAPPET engine and were designed before the EPA made motor oil Co's reduce their Zinc and Phosporous levels due to their affinity to Paladium, Platinum fouling cat converters.

Check out the chart...... I'm running the V-twin oil in my overhead tappet-cam Yamaha 4 cyl. Years ago our XS11 bike group discovered that the lower ZDDP level synths were killing our cams and tappets and we were spinning rod and main bearings. The XS11 engine would go 200K without a rebuild . My last one had 118K, until the raft of cam and rod bearing failures...

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

dirtyTurbo

Just got back from walmart. All they had in 30w-50 was super tech :/ But I added a $5 bottle of smoke stop and leak sealer because I know it's very thick and I'll be changing the oil very soon, and wow, the car sounds like an electric car compared to a few hours ago! Hopefully the new oil will have similar results. Zinc additives are also on the list, is there anywhere to get something other than Lindsey?