Early headlight switch wire loom question..
04-18-2005, 04:15 PM
#1
Nerd Herder
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Early headlight switch wire loom question..
This goes waay back, finaly fixing the interior loom.
My current headlight switchhad 2 wires fused back--all the way into the main interior wire loom.
they are Pin 30 (red) and pin 30b Red w/ green stripe)
How can I check to see if the rest of the loom is bad. When I installed the first used headlight motor I hooked up the battery and noticed white acrid smoke coming out from under the dash (Motor was bad and shorted..
)
I have the replacement pigtail now, and I can seperate all the wires successfully from the big melt- but the red and red/green are fused together- when I try to seperate them the copper core stips out with the insulation as far back as I can go.
There is evidence of overheating at the headlight motor plug as well in the engine bay.
Here's the Q's.
I know that pin 30b (Red w/ green) goes to the headlight motor. I am presuming the solid red wire (30) goes thru the relay, and gets to the main power thru the engine loom.
How can I separate these? Should I run an auxiliary 30b wire just in case the wire has shorted further on as well and just snip the old one off? Which is the mating 30b connected to on the headlight motor plug?
How much may have been compromised if the red wire has exposed copper?
Should I replace both red runs entirely?
Where does the red #30 go to? (Looks like H on the relay and then splices into a bridge?)
<Chris scratches his head..>
Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
My current headlight switchhad 2 wires fused back--all the way into the main interior wire loom.
they are Pin 30 (red) and pin 30b Red w/ green stripe)
How can I check to see if the rest of the loom is bad. When I installed the first used headlight motor I hooked up the battery and noticed white acrid smoke coming out from under the dash (Motor was bad and shorted..
)I have the replacement pigtail now, and I can seperate all the wires successfully from the big melt- but the red and red/green are fused together- when I try to seperate them the copper core stips out with the insulation as far back as I can go.
There is evidence of overheating at the headlight motor plug as well in the engine bay.
Here's the Q's.
I know that pin 30b (Red w/ green) goes to the headlight motor. I am presuming the solid red wire (30) goes thru the relay, and gets to the main power thru the engine loom.
How can I separate these? Should I run an auxiliary 30b wire just in case the wire has shorted further on as well and just snip the old one off? Which is the mating 30b connected to on the headlight motor plug?
How much may have been compromised if the red wire has exposed copper?
Should I replace both red runs entirely?
Where does the red #30 go to? (Looks like H on the relay and then splices into a bridge?)
<Chris scratches his head..>
Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
04-19-2005, 05:07 AM
#3
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Chris,
The only thing I can suggest for you at this point is what little experience I've gained from this 85/1 project car in my sig. When I got it, it wasn't running. That took no time at all to take care of. The real work is all the wiring mishaps/problems. I've never changed/spliced so many wires, connectors and relay sockets in my life on a car as I have this one! The headlight switch seemed to be the origin of a lot of the downfall of this wiring nightmare car. I even had to replace the fuse/relay box in this car. It fried at least two different pins in the back of it.
The first thing I'd suggest is, don't clip off and wire around ANYTHING ( I've removed a lot of wire from PO's who have "hacked" around wiring problems that way) that will prevent you from finding all the really badly affected circuts and it WILL come back to haunt you later. These cars can have multiple circuts affected by one failure point. Look for cooked wiring, cooked pins in the back of relay/fuse box and relay sockets, connectors corroded and nasty looking, and clean the grounds behind the main fuse box.
You might just have to keep looking back into the wiring from the switch to find good wiring, stop, jump to the back of the relay/fuse box and start looking at that. It seems that when these components fry, they "generally" fry close to sockets/connectors/fuse and relay box. It won't be a quick and easy deal. Thats just seems to be how it goes. I removed my dashboard completely on this car of mine, to deal with the process. I'm happy to say, I'm ready to put it all back together, as soon as I finish running all new speaker wires to the center console area. Everything is finally working properly now, even the factory alarm and chimes for door and key. I'll bet I removed at least 50' of extra wire added by PO's trying to "work around" wiring problems. Do it right! Find it all, fix it all......properly, the best you can. Good luck.
The only thing I can suggest for you at this point is what little experience I've gained from this 85/1 project car in my sig. When I got it, it wasn't running. That took no time at all to take care of. The real work is all the wiring mishaps/problems. I've never changed/spliced so many wires, connectors and relay sockets in my life on a car as I have this one! The headlight switch seemed to be the origin of a lot of the downfall of this wiring nightmare car. I even had to replace the fuse/relay box in this car. It fried at least two different pins in the back of it.
The first thing I'd suggest is, don't clip off and wire around ANYTHING ( I've removed a lot of wire from PO's who have "hacked" around wiring problems that way) that will prevent you from finding all the really badly affected circuts and it WILL come back to haunt you later. These cars can have multiple circuts affected by one failure point. Look for cooked wiring, cooked pins in the back of relay/fuse box and relay sockets, connectors corroded and nasty looking, and clean the grounds behind the main fuse box.
You might just have to keep looking back into the wiring from the switch to find good wiring, stop, jump to the back of the relay/fuse box and start looking at that. It seems that when these components fry, they "generally" fry close to sockets/connectors/fuse and relay box. It won't be a quick and easy deal. Thats just seems to be how it goes. I removed my dashboard completely on this car of mine, to deal with the process. I'm happy to say, I'm ready to put it all back together, as soon as I finish running all new speaker wires to the center console area. Everything is finally working properly now, even the factory alarm and chimes for door and key. I'll bet I removed at least 50' of extra wire added by PO's trying to "work around" wiring problems. Do it right! Find it all, fix it all......properly, the best you can. Good luck.
04-21-2005, 08:22 AM
#5
Nerd Herder
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Thanks Danny. as soon as I get DOT'd and plates I'll be over (after Hershey for sure.) I also wanna install a torque tube on the 924S- and retorque my CV's.
Yeah, the wiring is a PITA- MUCH worse than anticipated. I was hoping to get by replacing the plug pigtail, now it looks like the entire headlight wiring run needs to be replaced.
sheesh..
on the 924S- and retorque my CV's. Yeah, the wiring is a PITA- MUCH worse than anticipated. I was hoping to get by replacing the plug pigtail, now it looks like the entire headlight wiring run needs to be replaced.
sheesh..
03-09-2011, 07:46 PM
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Chris,
The only thing I can suggest for you at this point is what little experience I've gained from this 85/1 project car in my sig. When I got it, it wasn't running. That took no time at all to take care of. The real work is all the wiring mishaps/problems. I've never changed/spliced so many wires, connectors and relay sockets in my life on a car as I have this one! The headlight switch seemed to be the origin of a lot of the downfall of this wiring nightmare car. I even had to replace the fuse/relay box in this car. It fried at least two different pins in the back of it.
The first thing I'd suggest is, don't clip off and wire around ANYTHING ( I've removed a lot of wire from PO's who have "hacked" around wiring problems that way) that will prevent you from finding all the really badly affected circuts and it WILL come back to haunt you later. These cars can have multiple circuts affected by one failure point. Look for cooked wiring, cooked pins in the back of relay/fuse box and relay sockets, connectors corroded and nasty looking, and clean the grounds behind the main fuse box.
You might just have to keep looking back into the wiring from the switch to find good wiring, stop, jump to the back of the relay/fuse box and start looking at that. It seems that when these components fry, they "generally" fry close to sockets/connectors/fuse and relay box. It won't be a quick and easy deal. Thats just seems to be how it goes. I removed my dashboard completely on this car of mine, to deal with the process. I'm happy to say, I'm ready to put it all back together, as soon as I finish running all new speaker wires to the center console area. Everything is finally working properly now, even the factory alarm and chimes for door and key. I'll bet I removed at least 50' of extra wire added by PO's trying to "work around" wiring problems. Do it right! Find it all, fix it all......properly, the best you can. Good luck.
The only thing I can suggest for you at this point is what little experience I've gained from this 85/1 project car in my sig. When I got it, it wasn't running. That took no time at all to take care of. The real work is all the wiring mishaps/problems. I've never changed/spliced so many wires, connectors and relay sockets in my life on a car as I have this one! The headlight switch seemed to be the origin of a lot of the downfall of this wiring nightmare car. I even had to replace the fuse/relay box in this car. It fried at least two different pins in the back of it.
The first thing I'd suggest is, don't clip off and wire around ANYTHING ( I've removed a lot of wire from PO's who have "hacked" around wiring problems that way) that will prevent you from finding all the really badly affected circuts and it WILL come back to haunt you later. These cars can have multiple circuts affected by one failure point. Look for cooked wiring, cooked pins in the back of relay/fuse box and relay sockets, connectors corroded and nasty looking, and clean the grounds behind the main fuse box.
You might just have to keep looking back into the wiring from the switch to find good wiring, stop, jump to the back of the relay/fuse box and start looking at that. It seems that when these components fry, they "generally" fry close to sockets/connectors/fuse and relay box. It won't be a quick and easy deal. Thats just seems to be how it goes. I removed my dashboard completely on this car of mine, to deal with the process. I'm happy to say, I'm ready to put it all back together, as soon as I finish running all new speaker wires to the center console area. Everything is finally working properly now, even the factory alarm and chimes for door and key. I'll bet I removed at least 50' of extra wire added by PO's trying to "work around" wiring problems. Do it right! Find it all, fix it all......properly, the best you can. Good luck.
I know this is an old thread, but it looks like you naild it ! Im gonna start hunting for bad connections on mine now ! But the headlight switch, should that be changed to another one or can I keep it if I fix the bad connections/wires ?
And wher do I get collor wires that are the same size ?
Live in Norway.
-Fabian
