Van

Regulator is on the fuel rail closest to the firewall. Damper is on the fuel rail closest to the distributor.

You have access to a timing light? If so, clamp it's sensor on a wire and crank the engine. If it lights up, you're getting spark. You can test to make sure each cylinder is getting spark.

You can also put the sensor on cylinder #1, and look into the cam sprocket inspection hole, and when the light flashes, you should see the timing mark. (to see if your belt has skipped teeth.)

Van

Oh, and you've checked all of the intake boots/hoses/j-boot for leaks? Too much air can cause a no-start. I've had the throttle body boot come off on my turbo, and it wont start. (The air part of the equation.)

roman944

yeah I looked over the hoses (that I have left) and they are all good

while turning the car (with the key etc) - can I look into the distributor/housing (where the rotor is) and see if I am getting a spark?

the weirdest part is that I can't hear my fuel pump, there are NO noises when I turn the key ...

timing light?

and also, on the early cars - or at least on mine - both fuel things that are on the fuel rail are in the same spot

951Saga

Either use the jumper shiners described or have someone listen for the pump when cranking the motor. The pump will not turn on until 30rpm is seen from the speed sensor.

roman944

ok so I ran out to 2 of my buddies at Advance Auto who are heavy into modding etc

they said that the other 2 things I could check are ignition module, and crankshaft position sensor

do our cars have them? possible culprits?

Jason - that's what my buddies told me - if I don't hear it turn on with the key "on" then it turns on when I actually crank the car, that's why gas was coming out of it when I actually was starting the car - and why I didn't hear it turn on when I turned the key into the "on" position

rgs944

The fuel pump only turns on while actually cranking the engine.

roman944

here's something I found

its kind of hard to see, but in the picture above - can you see that sensor-looking thing right at the firewall? right where the oil cap is? with the green wire coming out of the other end? its orange?

I just saw that mine is cracked ... and I'm not sure what it is or what it does ... ?

I just went out to see if I see ANYTHING wrong with any connections/wires/plugs, maybe something came loose or whatever - and saw this ...

MichaelK

I think you just described the O2 sensor wires. They aren't connected to anything in my car so I can vouch that they are NOT required. I think if I hooked it up I could get better mileage and spew less pollution.

roman944

ok guys, here's another update:

took off the distributor cap, and rotor - and turned engine by hand - aligned the camshaft mark - and checked the hole on the housing - my marks ligned up PERFECTLY just like when I put the belt on and tensioned it

so I did NOT skip timing and my t-belt is good

more ideas?

just because I have gas ... maybe there is not enough pressure ?

should I still try the Y-jumper instead of the DME? is it safe? to drive on?

roman944

we just tried to disconnect 1 injector and starting the car - apparently this is one of methods to diagnose a faulty fuel pressure regulator? and the car didn't start

rgs944

At this point I think I would try to run it on either to see what it does. I know better mechanics than myself would not think that was a good idea, but in my proffession I practically live on the stuff.

roman944

well, more updates?

1) disconnected electrical connector on the injector - car did NOT start

2) made a Y-jumper, plugged it to where DME goes - heard the fuel pump run - tried to start the car - no start

what do I do now?

roman944

did a search ... what is the ignition switch and is it possible that mine is bad?

found a thread where someone found out after doing all these tests and replacing sensors/DME that this switch was bad

checked Clark's - and sure enough, yet another reason why the car would not start

Clark's also has a chart with engine trouble shooting - hesitation - with the culprit listed being AFM or bad spark plugs

my plugs are new ... so I doubt its my spark plugs doing this?

Mike C.

I don't see how you would get spark if ignition switch was bad. You can check pump delivery volume but I don't have the specs handy (Maybe in Clark's?). You basically get a container of known volume and time how long it takes to fill (from a hose adapted to the end of the fuel rail). You can also test fuel pressure at the fuel rail end.

roman944

ah, another important thing - when I'm turning the car over with the key - RPM tach does bounce

yeah me neither ... there is fuel, air, and spark, why won't the damn thing start