Rear Koni Install issue
#1
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Rear Koni Install issue
I ordered new Koni's for the rear (and front but, so far I haven't gotten there yet) of my 84 944 NA. I got the old ones out easily once I figured out that you had to jack up the control arm. I am however, unable to install the new ones. After a lot of grunting, twisting and forcing I got out my micrometer and figured out that the Koni's I got are 48 mm at the bottom and the struts I removed are around 40 MM at the bottom. As a result I can't get the new ones in at all. Does anyone have a pair of struts that they can measure? I am not sure if the PO just installed something and torqued it until it fit or if I need to send these back for a different strut. Could I maybe widen the space I have with a screw and 2 nuts?
Like this:
-----|X------X|-----
becomes
--|X-----------X|--
By screwing the X's (nuts) away from each other I would generate force on the pipes (strut housing) and bend it out Does that make sense? Is it a good idea?
I really don't want to replace the rear arms if I don't have to.
Like this:
-----|X------X|-----
becomes
--|X-----------X|--
By screwing the X's (nuts) away from each other I would generate force on the pipes (strut housing) and bend it out Does that make sense? Is it a good idea?
I really don't want to replace the rear arms if I don't have to.
#2
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I can't tell what you are doing. You use the term "strut" and rear in the same sentence. Struts are in front and shocks are in the rear. Which end are you working on?
Got pictures? It will make this a lot easier for us to understand what you are up against. Either that, or give us a better description.
Got pictures? It will make this a lot easier for us to understand what you are up against. Either that, or give us a better description.
#3
You have the shocks for the late model 944 cars (which use the aluminum trailing arms). Get the right shocks (for the early steel control arms). Don't alter the control arms, or you will pay big buck to replace them.
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If this is the case - then yes - the wrong shocks have been purchased. I guessing there is a little confusion on terminology here. Maybe it's mostly as my end.
#6
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If shocks go in the rear then I meant to say shocks. I don't really understand the difference so I was using Shocks and struts to refer to any gas pressurized tube used in the suspension. I apologize for causing any confusion. Is it the spring that makes the difference?
I will post pics and check the part number tonight. I was definitely filtering by my year, make and model when I was shopping so I shouldn't have chosen the wrong part.
I will post pics and check the part number tonight. I was definitely filtering by my year, make and model when I was shopping so I shouldn't have chosen the wrong part.
#7
Burning Brakes
Both the Front and Rear Suspension use 'Shocks' this is a Gas Pressurized Tube used to minimize "Shock" from dips and bumos in the road.
The 'Shocks' in the front go inside of a 'Strut' -the metal assembly which attaches the Coil Spring to the Shock..
The 'Shocks' in the front go inside of a 'Strut' -the metal assembly which attaches the Coil Spring to the Shock..
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#8
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Perhaps we can just call them dampers.
I am not familiar with the rear setup on the early cars. I do know that different part numbers are called out between the early and late models. The width of the lower shock mount (eye) may be the big difference.
Attached is a view of a rear shock on a later (85.5) car. The lower shock mounting bolt is in single sheer (cantilevered) through the shock into the aluminum trailing arm. If the early cars mount in double sheer (flanges on both sides of the shock mount - as at the top of the shock) the proper lower shock mount dimension is critical.
#9
If you can exchange the shocks do it, if you can't, then they can be used. Since the early cars use a pocket like a type 1 VW, they can be spread a small amount. You are talking about 4mm on either side which is not a huge amount. I have done this for a class 11 off road car with no harm. Just use a large fender washer to spread the load, and inspect the sheet metal and weld for stress while doing it.
Here is a pic for an early arm: http://www.volksdragon.org/P944reardiscs02.jpg
Here is a pic for an early arm: http://www.volksdragon.org/P944reardiscs02.jpg
Last edited by dontnow; 10-21-2010 at 01:41 PM. Reason: edit for typo/pic link
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DontNow,
That pic is exactly where my issue is. The strut sits in the hole with the bolt through it. The diameter of the strut I removed is much smaller than the one I am trying to squeeze in there. I called the place I ordered it from and they are having a tech look at the issue and will figure out a solution with me.
I can see very clearly from Scott's pic how the late models are quite different from my early model. I can't see that I would have any issues if it was like his pic because I could just get a bigger bolt (assuming it was sturdy enough to handle the extra length).
That pic is exactly where my issue is. The strut sits in the hole with the bolt through it. The diameter of the strut I removed is much smaller than the one I am trying to squeeze in there. I called the place I ordered it from and they are having a tech look at the issue and will figure out a solution with me.
I can see very clearly from Scott's pic how the late models are quite different from my early model. I can't see that I would have any issues if it was like his pic because I could just get a bigger bolt (assuming it was sturdy enough to handle the extra length).
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#13
Burning Brakes
You can drive a car without shocks--it'll just be bouncy. You can't drive a car without struts--there would be nothing to locate the spindle in the suspension.
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That makes sense pettyBird. That basically explains why I don't need an alignment after doing the rear shocks but do need one after doing the front struts
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