Rear Koni Install issue
10-21-2010, 08:56 PM
#16
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So I checked the tag attached to the shocks and the stamped in part number and it says 26-1209 Sport. I guess I do have the rigth ones and need to modify my control arms a bit.
Thank you to everyone for your help.
Thank you to everyone for your help.
10-21-2010, 11:19 PM
#18
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I don't know how to name the parts on my car, I just know how to read the sizes on my wrenches. I am literally doing all of this by muddling through here, clarks garage and my haynes book. This is my first car that I have done more than an oil change on.
10-22-2010, 08:40 AM
#19
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OK - the part number on your new shocks match the application.
Can you determine what type of shocks you are removing and their part number? There is a chance they are not intended for this car and the lower shock mount had to be squeezed tight to hold the lower mount.
Your idea of spreading the flanges with two nuts on a long bolt may be an effective way to get your new shocks to fit.
Also - and hopefully this is not the case - make sure you are installing the shocks correctly. The bottom mount is at the bottom of the shock body. The top is at the end of the rod. If for some reason you have this reversed, the upper mount won't fit in the lower mount.
Can you determine what type of shocks you are removing and their part number? There is a chance they are not intended for this car and the lower shock mount had to be squeezed tight to hold the lower mount.
Your idea of spreading the flanges with two nuts on a long bolt may be an effective way to get your new shocks to fit.
Also - and hopefully this is not the case - make sure you are installing the shocks correctly. The bottom mount is at the bottom of the shock body. The top is at the end of the rod. If for some reason you have this reversed, the upper mount won't fit in the lower mount.
10-22-2010, 11:44 AM
#20
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I definitely have them right side up. I checked that like 5 times.
The part number on the ones I removed is KG4544 which according to the link below is for the wrong year. I guess the PO did just squeeze them in there.
Is it maybe a better idea to remove the tube that goes through the rubber from the old and new ones and swap them? Would it be better to put a pipe cutter or cut wheel to the tube and shorten it? Or should I just embrace the change to new (1989) shocks and return the ones I have for the same application as the ones I removed?
http://www.racepages.com/parts/shocks/porsche/944.html
The part number on the ones I removed is KG4544 which according to the link below is for the wrong year. I guess the PO did just squeeze them in there.
Is it maybe a better idea to remove the tube that goes through the rubber from the old and new ones and swap them? Would it be better to put a pipe cutter or cut wheel to the tube and shorten it? Or should I just embrace the change to new (1989) shocks and return the ones I have for the same application as the ones I removed?
http://www.racepages.com/parts/shocks/porsche/944.html
10-22-2010, 01:13 PM
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If it were me - I would try to restore the lower mounts on the trailing arms to their original configuration and use the correct, unmolested shocks.
It might take a little heat in addition to a spreader. Exactly how to make the spreader is open for debate. A piece of threaded rod as large in diameter as possible to still fit in the hole is a good place to start. Then threading two nuts onto the rod, such that they are internal to the lower mount. This is just what you were proposing in your first post.
I'm going to guess you don't have a welding torch. This is the best way to bring heat to the metal to make it form-able while reducing the risk of fatigue fracture. If you don't have a torch - maybe you can find a friend with one.
It might take a little heat in addition to a spreader. Exactly how to make the spreader is open for debate. A piece of threaded rod as large in diameter as possible to still fit in the hole is a good place to start. Then threading two nuts onto the rod, such that they are internal to the lower mount. This is just what you were proposing in your first post.
I'm going to guess you don't have a welding torch. This is the best way to bring heat to the metal to make it form-able while reducing the risk of fatigue fracture. If you don't have a torch - maybe you can find a friend with one.
Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 10-22-2010 at 02:00 PM.
