Keaton944

So i got my new timing belt tension roller in yesterday, and the "lip" is on the opposite side of the eccentric nut. Is it supposed to be this way? this is opposite of the other rollers which have the lip and nut on the same side. Is the timing tension roller different than say the balance tension roller?

I can post pics later if it helps but hoping someone knows, i had put aside time to install this today after work but i'm unsure about it after looking at the part last night.

http://www.paragon-products.com/Timi...105.027.04.htm

This is the new part i have. the lip and eccentric nut are on opposite ends, all the other rollers have the eccentric nut facing outward, so you can stick a wrench on it obviously. but they also have the lip facing outward.

http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...102.025.07.htm

like on this one, not a good pic since you cant see the other side but it is smooth so i would assume the eccentric nut is stick out on the other side, the same side the lip is...which is how my current balance tension roller looks.

Keaton944

i have been looking at pics and videos and it seems this is how it is supposed to be but i just wanted to bump to see if anyone wanted to comment. I will be installing it after i get off work today.

xsboost90

that one is for the timing belt - the opposite is for the balance shaft lower.

Keaton944

well, it was easy to take the old one out, since it was destroyed. But i could not get the new one in despite trying all these crazy ways to pull the belt out of the way while i tried to slide it onto the bolt. So...had to take the damn belts off. I started to line everything up to TDC yesterday but it started to get dark so i looks like a got lots to do this weekend getting this **** all set to the correct position. wish me luck, i'll need it, its no longer in time as it was before(long story, basically stupidity on my part trying to rush things) so i'll be setting each piece of the puzzle to its mark individually.

I guess my only question is, (im not that strong, and i didn't continue to force it) but when i was turning the crack and then turning the cam and one point i turned the crack too much and it came to a stop, to which i assumed i had hit a valve with a piston. so i went up and turned the cam some more and went back and turned crack some more and everything was moving again. I wouldnt think i could have done any damage to a valve manually turning the crack but what do yall think? again, i was turning it slow and easy, and once it came to a stop i didnt try to force it.

jcslocum

It's fine unless you tried to force it with a big brute force push.

Keaton944

Nah, I wasn't using a very long arm wrench either. While I was at lunch today I got my crankshaft lined up to TDC using the clarks info. With the cam already set to TDC, the crankshaft rotated around easily, expect at the point when there was compression, but never felt like it made contact with anything. So it looks like I’m back in time and ready to put the timing belt back on and tension it.

This has brought me to a new question though, how do you hold the balance shaft upper and lower sprockets still while you put the belt on? They have alignment marks on them as well but they move around easily. What do y'all do to hold them in place while installing the balance belt? I guess a 2nd questions would be, these are attached to the balance shaft right? Via a woodruff key. Should they be spinning so easily?

http://www.clarks-garage.com/graphics/time3.gif

Thanks,
Keaton

Keaton944

well got it back in time and the timing belt on. did a full rotation and didn't have any snags and everything returned to TDC marks so seems to be good there. Waiting until tomorrow to mess with balance belt. Anyone care to comment on the question about holding the upper and lower balance sprockets?

pettybird

The right way is with a spanner/pin drive wrench. You hold the pulley with it and turn the nut.

The way I did it was to wrap the old belt TIGHTLY around one balance shaft, then send the belt around one of the idler pulley studs, and vise grip the belt in place. if you've got it tight enough the belt holds the sprockets just fine. Obviously don't use your new belt for this. That method works for taking off the crank pulley bolt, too.