I have Questions.
09-30-2010, 11:13 PM
#1
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I have Questions.
I Just recently bought my first porsche, well my first car. It an 87 944 non-turbo. Theres a few things im havng trouble with.
The washer fluid pump. At first i thought it was burnt up. But I tested the plug and it wasnt getting power. Its not a fuse. I was thinking a switch but when try it, the wipers come on. Are there two separate switches?
Then theres the rear hatch release. The left one releases but the right one sticks and sometimes wont even release. I havent gone too indepth with it because im afraid if i mess somthing up i will be w/o a trunk. so any tips on how to adjust it?
Also the clutch is acting weird. slightly rest your foot on it, it sinks. and its a little soft. Master cylinder?
And last, air conditioning. How do i convert it from r12 to r134a?
The washer fluid pump. At first i thought it was burnt up. But I tested the plug and it wasnt getting power. Its not a fuse. I was thinking a switch but when try it, the wipers come on. Are there two separate switches?
Then theres the rear hatch release. The left one releases but the right one sticks and sometimes wont even release. I havent gone too indepth with it because im afraid if i mess somthing up i will be w/o a trunk. so any tips on how to adjust it?
Also the clutch is acting weird. slightly rest your foot on it, it sinks. and its a little soft. Master cylinder?
And last, air conditioning. How do i convert it from r12 to r134a?
09-30-2010, 11:29 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Congrat on the New Car! Your in a great area to have this car. There are so many of us around NOVA...
If your over 21, we are having a 944 Happy Hour get together in Ballston next week. The details are still being worked out, but it would be good to meet some of us. look for the thread "Meet up this weekend in NOVA area? "
I can't help with Washer Pump -sounds like the wires might be cracked, bad ground maybe...
As for the Hatch Release; Stick your finger in there, Clean the release, and re lube with grease.. Might Help. If not the cable could be streched a little.. You can try loosening the bolts that hold the release assembly and move it around, might find a better fit...
Good luck hope to see you around. Also check out Dorkiphus, and a Facebook Group called "Porsche 924/44/68 & 28 Club for Northern VA, MD, & DC"
If your over 21, we are having a 944 Happy Hour get together in Ballston next week. The details are still being worked out, but it would be good to meet some of us. look for the thread "Meet up this weekend in NOVA area? "
I can't help with Washer Pump -sounds like the wires might be cracked, bad ground maybe...
As for the Hatch Release; Stick your finger in there, Clean the release, and re lube with grease.. Might Help. If not the cable could be streched a little.. You can try loosening the bolts that hold the release assembly and move it around, might find a better fit...
Good luck hope to see you around. Also check out Dorkiphus, and a Facebook Group called "Porsche 924/44/68 & 28 Club for Northern VA, MD, & DC"
10-01-2010, 03:12 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hawkinsville / Perry, Georgia, RETIRED USAF GO BLUE
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Hello and a BIG WELCOME TO THE FORUM. Great group of people on here more than willing to help you out. We all use Clark's Garage.com for DIY Maintenance Help.
Read through all of it and it will help you learn about your car. Happy wrenching.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
1, The w/shield washer pump gets its power from the control stalk. To test the pump make two long leads with alligator clips. Mark one wire as Ground on both ends. On the pump motor note the color of the two wires. The BROWN wire is always Ground. Hook the clips to respective spade on the pump. Put some water in the tank and hook up to the Battery Ground and then to the Positive Post momentarily. If you hear the motor run, the problem lies between the motor and the control stalk at the steering wheel.
2, The Hatch Latches get filled with crud and cause the release not to work properly. Mask around the lock receiver to prevent cleaner from getting onto the paint and spray some Carb Cleaner into the latch to clean it really good With Q-Tips. After it is cleaned use White Lithium Grease to re-lube the hatch locks. The claws should snap back very easy. Pull the carpet back from the spare tire well and lube all the hatch release rod ends.
3, The Clutch needs to be bleed at the Slave Cylinder for a Spongy feeling, air in line. Pull the carpet back from under the clutch pedal and see if there is Brake Fluid dripping down, if so you have a leaking Master cylinder. When the Master is replaced you also replace the Slave Cylinder and the line going from master to Slave.
4, The A/C fittings have to be changed out for servicing, the mineral oil has to be vacuumed out, new Ester Oil put in for R134A, the dryer has to be replaced, and have them put in a dye to check for leaks with a black light. If any connections show a leak you can replace the small o-rings from NAPA, Advance or Auto Zone.
Cheers,
Larry
Read through all of it and it will help you learn about your car. Happy wrenching.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
1, The w/shield washer pump gets its power from the control stalk. To test the pump make two long leads with alligator clips. Mark one wire as Ground on both ends. On the pump motor note the color of the two wires. The BROWN wire is always Ground. Hook the clips to respective spade on the pump. Put some water in the tank and hook up to the Battery Ground and then to the Positive Post momentarily. If you hear the motor run, the problem lies between the motor and the control stalk at the steering wheel.
2, The Hatch Latches get filled with crud and cause the release not to work properly. Mask around the lock receiver to prevent cleaner from getting onto the paint and spray some Carb Cleaner into the latch to clean it really good With Q-Tips. After it is cleaned use White Lithium Grease to re-lube the hatch locks. The claws should snap back very easy. Pull the carpet back from the spare tire well and lube all the hatch release rod ends.
3, The Clutch needs to be bleed at the Slave Cylinder for a Spongy feeling, air in line. Pull the carpet back from under the clutch pedal and see if there is Brake Fluid dripping down, if so you have a leaking Master cylinder. When the Master is replaced you also replace the Slave Cylinder and the line going from master to Slave.
4, The A/C fittings have to be changed out for servicing, the mineral oil has to be vacuumed out, new Ester Oil put in for R134A, the dryer has to be replaced, and have them put in a dye to check for leaks with a black light. If any connections show a leak you can replace the small o-rings from NAPA, Advance or Auto Zone.
Cheers,
Larry
10-01-2010, 11:26 PM
#4
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Thanks a lot guys! I got the hatch working. i took the latches off and cleaned them with brake clean and sprayed nforce in them, and alson the bolts were to tight and the latches were being squezzed making it hard for them to release. Then i had to file the pins(?) that are attached to the hatch because thery were all chewed up. So it works good as new! As for the washer pump, ill have to try that. I work at goodyear in leesburg so i should be able to get the ac done w/o problem.
@pnbell- I would love to go but i am only 16. Ya look for the car in the pic. If there are any other gatherings, let me know. Thanks guys!
@pnbell- I would love to go but i am only 16. Ya look for the car in the pic. If there are any other gatherings, let me know. Thanks guys!
10-01-2010, 11:30 PM
#5
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Also I was thinking about buying tortion bars. What size would you guys recommend? I was thinking about 29mm. I track it so i wast something stiff. Right now i have koni yellows in the front and as you can see in the pic, the back end sinks way down.
10-02-2010, 01:07 AM
#6
Instructor
.
Your rear shocks need to match the front. Also, if you put 29mm torsion bars In the rear with the stock springs in the front, the car will handle like ****.
A good street/ track setup is 220lb springs with 27mm bars. We just did this setup on Jordan(stogie25)'s car. It handles awesome.
I am running 475 coilovers up front with 31mm solid bars in the rear. I really like it and the ride doesn't bother me on the street, but it is very rough over bad roads.
Your rear shocks need to match the front. Also, if you put 29mm torsion bars In the rear with the stock springs in the front, the car will handle like ****.
A good street/ track setup is 220lb springs with 27mm bars. We just did this setup on Jordan(stogie25)'s car. It handles awesome.
I am running 475 coilovers up front with 31mm solid bars in the rear. I really like it and the ride doesn't bother me on the street, but it is very rough over bad roads.