Information about V8 944's
#1
Information about V8 944's
I thought someone made a thread about this awhile back, but searching yielded nothing. My interest has been peaked in a V8 powered 944. Someone over at GRM built a V8 944 cheap enough to compete in the 200X challenge. Some of the searched threads say that a V8 swap can be done for as little as 5k, including car and engine. I've seen others that say it could cost as much as 12k. I've also seen a few people say that these cars are prone to heating issues and have major reliablity problems. Can some V8 944 (948?) owners shed some light on the issue?
Drew
Drew
#2
No, not Mosquito!
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#3
Rainman
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i met the man himself (tony g) and his advice for cooling was use a 951 radiator - it is better than the RH radiator by miles.
as for reliability...dude, its a small block chevy. unreliable doesnt exist for that motor
as for reliability...dude, its a small block chevy. unreliable doesnt exist for that motor
#4
Have you checked out www.porschehybrids.com? Lots of great information on that forum.
944hybrids.forumotion.com/forum.htm
The chodes at RH bought that one to control the market and its dead like Michael Jackson
#5
Three Wheelin'
yes, stay away from porsche hybrids board, it's lost it's soul, we reside at 944hybrids now!
all in all, a conversion can be done for very low entrance cost, but don't expect to break records with power and don't expect to have a gorgeous swap. If you buy an engine, make sure it has all the original parts, so you don't have to piece it together...that was my biggest folly and it's gotten me in trouble reliability wise. the biggest problem area, at least on the LT1 is the optispark, mainly when you cheap out and buy an ebay unit instead of an original GM part (i'm having this problem right now).
Before my optispark took a crap (and remember it's not a GM part, it's an aftermarket ****bay part) i had absolutely no problems with the car for 3000 miles. For what it's worth, in the hottest part of the summer, i could barely make my coolant temperature (in the block) hit 205 with really really hard driving (by the way, 190 is when the original n/a fans kick on). Those sub 210 temps are with the stock n/a radiator and fans
all in all, a conversion can be done for very low entrance cost, but don't expect to break records with power and don't expect to have a gorgeous swap. If you buy an engine, make sure it has all the original parts, so you don't have to piece it together...that was my biggest folly and it's gotten me in trouble reliability wise. the biggest problem area, at least on the LT1 is the optispark, mainly when you cheap out and buy an ebay unit instead of an original GM part (i'm having this problem right now).
Before my optispark took a crap (and remember it's not a GM part, it's an aftermarket ****bay part) i had absolutely no problems with the car for 3000 miles. For what it's worth, in the hottest part of the summer, i could barely make my coolant temperature (in the block) hit 205 with really really hard driving (by the way, 190 is when the original n/a fans kick on). Those sub 210 temps are with the stock n/a radiator and fans
#6
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Makin' it easy...
http://www.944v8s.com/Products-2.html
Fully supported...
http://944hybrids.forumotion.com/index.htm
More posts here...
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/534007-944-owners-with-ls1-swaps-please-post-in-here.html
RH / PHB / "JACKSON" FREE.
http://www.944v8s.com/Products-2.html
Fully supported...
http://944hybrids.forumotion.com/index.htm
More posts here...
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/534007-944-owners-with-ls1-swaps-please-post-in-here.html
RH / PHB / "JACKSON" FREE.
#7
Ahh thats why I couldn't find that thread, it had LS1 in the title not V8.
@V2Rocket, I've heard there are transmission alignment problems. Maybe it was ID10T error?
@lovemyp-car, the only absolute I would have for a project like this is it would have to be a clean swap. I think I would be plenty happy with 300 RWHP, which is pretty easy for a SBC. Thanks for the great links!
@V2Rocket, I've heard there are transmission alignment problems. Maybe it was ID10T error?
@lovemyp-car, the only absolute I would have for a project like this is it would have to be a clean swap. I think I would be plenty happy with 300 RWHP, which is pretty easy for a SBC. Thanks for the great links!
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#8
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One of the issues I have with the V8 swap is the lowered subframe. That seems like it would be an issue for a street car, at least around here with our rutted roads, rocks, etc. One of my old cars, I put headers on that hung a bit low and it was a huge pain in the rear. Always dragging them or bashing them. It's the sort of thing you think you could live with but find it is quite limiting.
-Joel.
-Joel.
#9
The majority of the V8 swaps drop the X-member down only by 1/2" and that is not even as far as the normal position of the stock 944 fins on it's oil pan so that point is moot. I droped my X-member/subframe by 1.25" and all the suspension travel is the same and the new oil pan is now level with the bottom X-member. I don't plan on cruising the mall with all the speed bumps ...lol
#10
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As far as headers, oil pan clearance, etc. 1/2" clearance may be sacrificed with the swap, and a lowered 944 may experience some clearance issues...but, I have not heard of any to date.
All of the "track" cars are running 1/2" spacers with no noticeable bumpsteer. I know of one LT1 conversion running 1.0" spacers, and it is a "street" car. 1/2" drop on a street car is not an issue, if you understand what is being lowered.
The lower control arm rear pivot points are also dropped with the crossmember. Geometry may be brought back to Porsche specs by simply redrilling the front control arm mounting location 1/2" lower, but is not absolutely necessary.
If bumpsteer was a problem, TonyG wouldn't be able to repeatedly waste Z06s at Willow Springs...
Marc A has pushed 993TTs to the limit @ Road Atlanta with the same 1/2" drop.
All of the "track" cars are running 1/2" spacers with no noticeable bumpsteer. I know of one LT1 conversion running 1.0" spacers, and it is a "street" car. 1/2" drop on a street car is not an issue, if you understand what is being lowered.
The lower control arm rear pivot points are also dropped with the crossmember. Geometry may be brought back to Porsche specs by simply redrilling the front control arm mounting location 1/2" lower, but is not absolutely necessary.
If bumpsteer was a problem, TonyG wouldn't be able to repeatedly waste Z06s at Willow Springs...
Marc A has pushed 993TTs to the limit @ Road Atlanta with the same 1/2" drop.
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The 2-piece (GM) C5 bellhousing allows removal of the lower section for visibly verifying correct torque tube alignment.
Also, the 944 factory service manual lists methods for aligning the torque tube.
#13
Ah that's another question I've had. Most of what I've seen says the Power Steering and brake boosters go bye bye with the swap. Which I can live with. How hard is it to hook the A/C up? Cause that I can't live without (yes I'm a bit of a wuss). Maybe if I ever decided to turn into a straight track toy.
#14
Many people including myself have done one off kits for quite some time. There at least 4 turn key conversion house in the US that have their own private label parts built just for their consumption besides DJ Scottie Mann at RH. As many people know I have been pretty vocal about Renegades shoddy parts and more importantly their shoddy business practices. They continue their reign of chodness by buying up a healthy forum and deleting technical content so they looked better. Now they MIGHT have 1 real post a week. From 100’s to 1. Just goes to show what the general conversion community thinks about them as a whole. Even their own branded forum has not had a post for months.
300 flywheel horsepower, which is very obtainable and affordable, in a 944 will have you grinning from ear to ear every time you drive it. The V8 makes it the car Porsche should have produced.
Unlike many people in the Porsche world, 944v8s kit you get the steak not just the sizzle because you own a German made car.
#15
Ah that's another question I've had. Most of what I've seen says the Power Steering and brake boosters go bye bye with the swap. Which I can live with. How hard is it to hook the A/C up? Cause that I can't live without (yes I'm a bit of a wuss). Maybe if I ever decided to turn into a straight track toy.
Power Brakes there are many options, including hydro boost either GM FORD BMW or custom. There are even some dual diaphragm vacuum small diameter boosters that can be made to work with some fabrication. After trying most of the solutions I personally like a properly sized dual master manual set up. Tilton. Wilwood and CNC all have off the shelf products that work well with little or no mods. Properly sized being the key.