hood scoop (read inside before flaming!!)
#138
Three Wheelin'
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sure i got some...they're not real new, but they haven't been posted yet!
thanks!!!
p.s. anyone got any tips or can come out and help with bleeding brakes/clutch? i've never done it before and i'm never sure if i'm doing it right...
thanks!!!
p.s. anyone got any tips or can come out and help with bleeding brakes/clutch? i've never done it before and i'm never sure if i'm doing it right...
#140
Drifting
Join Date: May 2008
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please use wire loom and dont just rap everything in electrical tape. there are factory wiring harness covers and wire loom looks ok and is cheep. There is also an electrical heat rap your can use but its expensive. i get it free from a friend that works on elevators.
#141
Three Wheelin'
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I have loom also, the harness was originally wrapped in tape and then loomed (kinda weird i know). I was just using the tape to get stuff together so it was easier to deal with.
I'm probably going to look into getting some different colored wire loom later on. You can all kinds of colors on ebay, might be interesting!
Where do you get a power bleeder? i think i've seen them online, but i've never understood how they work, so i haven't bought any.
I'm probably going to look into getting some different colored wire loom later on. You can all kinds of colors on ebay, might be interesting!
Where do you get a power bleeder? i think i've seen them online, but i've never understood how they work, so i haven't bought any.
#142
Nordschleife Master
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I have loom also, the harness was originally wrapped in tape and then loomed (kinda weird i know). I was just using the tape to get stuff together so it was easier to deal with.
I'm probably going to look into getting some different colored wire loom later on. You can all kinds of colors on ebay, might be interesting!
Where do you get a power bleeder? i think i've seen them online, but i've never understood how they work, so i haven't bought any.
I'm probably going to look into getting some different colored wire loom later on. You can all kinds of colors on ebay, might be interesting!
Where do you get a power bleeder? i think i've seen them online, but i've never understood how they work, so i haven't bought any.
You put in brake fluid, hook to cap opening on reservoir, pump up, and open bleed valves on calipers/slave cylinder...make it a breeze
#144
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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sure! I'd kinda forgotten about this thread!
let's see...i presented the car last night for my Senior Project Presentation...was a huge hit.
last week i discovered the source of a small smoking/steaming that i couldn't figure out. The water pump drive shaft seal was hard, and was leaking oil down onto the block, which would then smoke. Fixed that...was a big pain in the *** because i had to drain the cooling system again, remove the water pump and unplug a bunch of stuff and then put it all back together.
I still need to replace a couple of things and get a couple of things going right. I don't have o2's hooked up yet, so the idle is still very choppy...it also has no top end power and seems to get "stuck" at (best guess) around 3000 rpm and not rev up.
This last part made me realize i neglected to replace the knock sensor with that of an LT4, which is probably why it's sluggish.
Bought a flowmaster 50 series muffler with delta flow technology (should sound impressive) and i've been collecting various other exhaust tubing etc...i'm planning on doing dual 2's into a single 3 all the way back to the stock position where i'll mount the flowmaster.
let's see...i presented the car last night for my Senior Project Presentation...was a huge hit.
last week i discovered the source of a small smoking/steaming that i couldn't figure out. The water pump drive shaft seal was hard, and was leaking oil down onto the block, which would then smoke. Fixed that...was a big pain in the *** because i had to drain the cooling system again, remove the water pump and unplug a bunch of stuff and then put it all back together.
I still need to replace a couple of things and get a couple of things going right. I don't have o2's hooked up yet, so the idle is still very choppy...it also has no top end power and seems to get "stuck" at (best guess) around 3000 rpm and not rev up.
This last part made me realize i neglected to replace the knock sensor with that of an LT4, which is probably why it's sluggish.
Bought a flowmaster 50 series muffler with delta flow technology (should sound impressive) and i've been collecting various other exhaust tubing etc...i'm planning on doing dual 2's into a single 3 all the way back to the stock position where i'll mount the flowmaster.
#145
Race Car
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Hey whats the easiest way to bypass the VATS on the computer? I know they reprogram the computer so you don't need that chipped key but don't know who can actually do that.
#146
Drifting
Join Date: May 2008
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I still need to replace a couple of things and get a couple of things going right. I don't have o2's hooked up yet, so the idle is still very choppy...it also has no top end power and seems to get "stuck" at (best guess) around 3000 rpm and not rev up.
This last part made me realize i neglected to replace the knock sensor with that of an LT4, which is probably why it's sluggish.
This last part made me realize i neglected to replace the knock sensor with that of an LT4, which is probably why it's sluggish.
If you know the value of the resistor in the key, you can hard wire a resistor in the harness , but reprogramming is the best method.
#148
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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you and your popcorn...i'll put up some more pictures soon (if i have any more!)
for my computer reprogram i used www.lt1swap.com. Brendan is very good at it...call him/email him and tell him what you need done, he'll recommend some things most likely...and it's a flat fee of 75 bucks for the reprogramming...free programs after that on the same computer (for if you add new upgrades etc.)![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
Ethan
for my computer reprogram i used www.lt1swap.com. Brendan is very good at it...call him/email him and tell him what you need done, he'll recommend some things most likely...and it's a flat fee of 75 bucks for the reprogramming...free programs after that on the same computer (for if you add new upgrades etc.)
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Ethan
#150
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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ok...update
check out my other thread for a couple of pictures...i've also attached some more.
so...i ended up selling the 1.6 rockers i had because they were flexing and popping off of the valves and causing trouble/lots of noise. I'm running the stock stamped steel 1.5 rockers, so the tune isn't quite right (the pcm is tuned specifically for the cam and rocker setup). I'm planning on picking up a set of comp cams chrome-moly steel 1.6 rockers soon(ish)...they should fix any flexing problems i was having and increase horsepower pretty substantially.
I've started taking the paint off of the car, down to factory primer. I'm going to put it in flat black/satin black and seal it for now, because i don't have enough money for a proper paint job (when i say i don't have enough money, i mean i have just enough cash in the bank account to keep it open...) but i should have some money rolling in soon from all the work i've been doing/selling things on ebay...so i can pick up some primer and sealer with that cash.
i have an aftermarket tach, oil pressure gauge, and coolant temp gauge hooked up, the tach is mounted on the a pillar, and i ran the two other gauges into the center console just below the cd player...i'll be making a plate out of aluminum/steel to mount them in soon, and i'll paint it black so it looks like it was supposed to be there...lol.
everyone keeps saying i need to do something about the hood, but i honestly can't and i won't...it's functional, and actually looks kick *** in person, ask doug, he saw it. Pictures truly don't do it justice, and there's really no room to go anywhere else with the intake routing at the moment, so it's staying for a while. Doug actually had a good idea to help with the look of the hood scoop...he said i should look for flaps, like they used to put in the old muscle cars, or on dragsters that i could open and close on the front of the scoop...i'll have to take a look into that!
Ethan
check out my other thread for a couple of pictures...i've also attached some more.
so...i ended up selling the 1.6 rockers i had because they were flexing and popping off of the valves and causing trouble/lots of noise. I'm running the stock stamped steel 1.5 rockers, so the tune isn't quite right (the pcm is tuned specifically for the cam and rocker setup). I'm planning on picking up a set of comp cams chrome-moly steel 1.6 rockers soon(ish)...they should fix any flexing problems i was having and increase horsepower pretty substantially.
I've started taking the paint off of the car, down to factory primer. I'm going to put it in flat black/satin black and seal it for now, because i don't have enough money for a proper paint job (when i say i don't have enough money, i mean i have just enough cash in the bank account to keep it open...) but i should have some money rolling in soon from all the work i've been doing/selling things on ebay...so i can pick up some primer and sealer with that cash.
i have an aftermarket tach, oil pressure gauge, and coolant temp gauge hooked up, the tach is mounted on the a pillar, and i ran the two other gauges into the center console just below the cd player...i'll be making a plate out of aluminum/steel to mount them in soon, and i'll paint it black so it looks like it was supposed to be there...lol.
everyone keeps saying i need to do something about the hood, but i honestly can't and i won't...it's functional, and actually looks kick *** in person, ask doug, he saw it. Pictures truly don't do it justice, and there's really no room to go anywhere else with the intake routing at the moment, so it's staying for a while. Doug actually had a good idea to help with the look of the hood scoop...he said i should look for flaps, like they used to put in the old muscle cars, or on dragsters that i could open and close on the front of the scoop...i'll have to take a look into that!
Ethan