I am finally getting around to finalizing the bulb project and everyone can now get in and place your orders for whatever you want. I'll do one order and that will probably be it for quite some time due to minimum quantity orders. I would like to close this up sometime next week.

This all started with painting the rear lenses transparent red and seeking a way to get better lighting out of the red reverse light. Specialty halogen bulbs (same as used in emergency vehicles on their light bars) were the answer. But heat might be an issue. I tested 30, 35 and 50 watt bulbs.

50 watt bulbs are too hot if they are lit up too long.

I have decided that 35 watt halogen bulbs are the way to go. The stock 21 watt #1156 incandesent bulb puts out 400 lumens. The 35 watt halogen puts out 750 lumens. There is no strain on the wiring running the 35 halogen as the same voltage was being delivered to both the 35 halogen and 21 incandesent in testing. At 70*F ambient, after 5 minutes constant burn time the backup light lens cell had reached 135*F for the haolgen and 125*F for the incandesent. Conclusion is that this is safe from a heat standpoint in short duration use while providing nearly twice the light.

The uses for this halogen bulb would be the backup lights and the underhood courtesy light. I would be a bit concerned using them in the brake lights if you were in hot weather and stop and go traffic for an extended period.

DEAD TAIL LIGHT CELLS

I have also obtained some new OEM sockets to light up the dead tail light cells. They cost me $3 each and those that want them can have 'em for the same price. You need 2. If you want 4 tinned spade connectors and some tinned wire to hook them up I can include that for $1. It is a nice upgrade.

OTHER EXTERIOR BULBS

If your other exterior bulbs are old they may still light up but they are nowhere near as bright as they used to be. They are incandesecents and the tungsten filaments have deposited tungsten on the inside of the glass. You may not be able to see it, but it is there and cutting down light transmission. And the filament has lost lumen output. If you want some new ones I'll include them in the order.

Here is what is on your car OEM:

Taillight Turn #1156: (1) x 2
Taillight Reverse #1156 (1) x 2
Taillight Stop #1156 (1) x 2
Taillight Running #1155 (1) x 2
Side Markers #1155 (1) x 4
Front Turn/Running #1157 (1) x 2
Underhood #1156 (1)
Third Brake Light #1156 (1)

If you want to do the dead light cell you can either make it a running light or brake light, or what ever you want. You will need a pair of bulbs from the above list.

FORWARD LIGHTING

I'm also going to buy some more H4s and H3s if you want any.

PRICING

I'm going to get German manufactured bulbs from either Phillips/Narva, Osram/Sylvania, etc. They will have nickel plated bases, not bare brass. I could get the China, Taiwan or Korean built bulbs at 1/3rd to 1/2 the price but I don't want to do it. For price comparison the Wagner bulbs you see in the local store are Chinese and I could sell those bulbs for 1/3rd the price I need for the German ones I'm going to sell. Price each:

Halogen 35 watt BA15s base: $6.75
#1155: 0.80
#1156: 0.80
#1157: 0.90
90/100 H4: 12.00
55/60 H4 50% boosted: 11.00
100 H3: 7.00
55 H3: 5.00
Bulb Sockets: 3.00
Terms & wire for 2 bulb sockets: 1.00
Dielectric Grease Tube 1/3 oz: $3.00

SHIPPING & PACKING MATERIAL

In the USA it should run about $4.50 to a top of $5.50. The international guys should only be a couple bucks extra.

So sign up here and include your postal code if you are out of the USA along with your email address and I will send you your total bill and where to send the check.

Regards,

Dan

 

hey dan!
hook me up with:
-2 bulb sockets for the blanks in the rear
-terms and wire for sockets
-2 lamps for the extra sockets (i'll be making these brake lights, so halogens)
-2 more halogens for my stock brake lights
-replacement for everything else (well, no headlights, driving lights or fog lights)

basically - all the 'little' lights

20008 is my zip

lemme know!

i'm finishing up the 'full-boat' install today....can't wait!
thanks,

 

Hi Dan!

Same for me as Brian... but... if you can, I'd like two complete sets so I can have the same rig for my trailer lights.

Thanks, Dan!

Jim 1987 944S (opps... zip is 33498)

 

I'm in also, extra sockets with bulbs and braking bulbs. What's best, to make the extras running or braking lights?

 

Ok, Guys. I wish you would tell me "I want X of the 35 watt halogen tail light socket type bulbs, Y of 1156, Z of 1157, 2 sockets, terminals for X new sockets and some wire, etc.

If you don't do this, it is going to be a nightmare for me as I know at least 100 guys are interested in this project.

LED, I'd make them running lights. Although, I've never been to PR and seen what the risks are from other drivers that are morons. So you may want to go brake on the dead cells.

If you can keep your foot off the brake at stop lights, a 35 halogen bulb in the brake lights is REALLY BRIGHT! But if you light them up for too long, as in stop and go traffic jams on an incline, you may get too hot and affect the plastic. The brake lights are two cells big so can take heat better, but I am warning you on extended stomping on the brake for 5 min, off 15 seconds, back on for 5 minutes, and so on. You will likely be replacing plastic. If you can stop and sit level, then you will be fine.

I've actually been running a 35 halogen in the third brake light for the last 2 months. That is a really small airspace. I haven't melted anything yet and we were up at 90*F ambient. It was about 170*F in there after 5 minutes and climbing fast. In big stop and go traffic. But I don't want guys to end up in some situation and melt the plastic housings. That is why I may do it but tell you not to.

You are an adult, you decide. I do know they are fine for reverse and underhood. NO PROBLEM.

If you replace your old incandescents in the old cells you will probably at least double light output without heat risk, just because they are new. The halogen will push it up way more but you run the heat risk if they are on too long. These are plastic lights, not Cibie glass and metal headlights that take 100 watts and laugh at the heat. <img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" />

 

EDIT: Changed my mind, see other post.

 

My order:

3ea 35w halogen
2ea sockets for dead tail lights
4ea tinned spade connectors
5ea 1156
4ea 1155
2ea 1157
2ea H-3 55w

 

Hi Dan,
can I have:
4 dead cell sockets
2 sets of wire and terminations for above
8 35w halogens
14 1156
4 1155
4 1157

My postcode is 2089, suburb is Neutral Bay, Sydney. If it is not listed it is 1.5 miles from the Harbour Bridge (centre of Sydney), so a central Sydney delivery.
Thanks in advance Dan for all the research and effort.

Glen

 

hey dan - no problem. sorry for the scattershot order:

i'd like:
two dead sockets
terms and wires for sockets
2-BA15
8-1155
6-1156
2-1157

i'm going to make the dead cells into brake lights, but fill them with the standard 1156 lamps so they don't get too hot. with the way that section of the lens is, it should be plenty bright combined with the BA15s in the stock brake lights...

to 20008 Wash, DC
thanks!

 

No problem, Glen, I knew you wanted the sockets so I held a pair aside for you. I can get some more but they are gettig scarce. You got in line fast enough, you can get 4 new sockets. I have another 20 sitting in the pipeline inventory if others want them.

Let me see how big a box I need to ship the items in and protect, since you are getting a fair amount of cubic inches.

I'll make it in your favor and protect the bulbs with packing peanuts.

 

Brian, Yes, the dead light cell is quite bright and has a different frenzeling pattern. I was told by a guy at NHTSA (US Transportation Feds) that is familiar with our cars that Hella designed it as a rear fog which is why it is so "clear" and bright.

Olli in Finland, who has a USA spec 951 and knows all sorts of details about the car, had a different explaination so I don't know what the true story is. In any event, they are quite bright even with a 5 watt bulb in them. If one wants to use them as additional brake lights and put in 21 watt bulbs, drivers will really notice when you hit the brakes.

I'm currently using mine as additional running lights but it is quite simple to change the wiring around to a brake function since you can just pull the back plate off the lens in a couple minutes, set it on your bench and change the wiring. And since these are the OEM sockets changing out bulbs takes about 5 seconds.

 

2ea sockets for dead tail lights with tinned spade connectors & wire
7ea 1156
4ea 1155
2ea 1157

Shipping will be to S9A3W2. deezee@sasktel.net

Thanks Dan

 

Thanks Dan for the peanuts and sockets, ended up buying another 951 since this was first discussed! Let me know how you want and where to send the money. Thanks very much

 

Ok I changed my mind, I'm gonna replace every bulb so...

• 6 #1155
• 7 #1156
• 2 #1157
• 3 BA15
• 2 Sockets /w Terms & wire

Zip code: 00918
Email: led@phreaker.net

 

I would like:

3 - 35w halogen
2 - sockets for dead tail lights
4 - tinned spade connectors and tinned wire
6 - 1156
6 - 1155
2 - 1157
1 - Dielectric Grease Tube 1/3 oz

Zip code is 70170. E-mail is tknister@bellsouth.net.

Please let me know the final total, where and how you would like payment.

Thanks.