bell-housing hold up!!!
02-07-2008 | 04:43 PM
#17
RL Community Team
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From: San Francisco Area
02-07-2008 | 05:41 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Nashua NH
FRporscheman found an excellent picture. I wish i had a picture of the other end to show, but i don't. Yes you can attach a slide hammer to that threaded hole. I didn't have one, so i hit it out from the top. If you go this route, use something that is solid metal as an extension to get to it. Something like a screwdriver that has a plastic handled will absorb too much of the shock that is needed to break it free.
It will come out, just takes a lot of force initially if it hasn't been out in a long time.
It will come out, just takes a lot of force initially if it hasn't been out in a long time.
02-08-2008 | 12:59 AM
#20
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Nashua NH
yes, recommended by a family friend, and i praise the stuff.
That said, that rod is in tight enough that you probably won't get anything in where its needed. Honestly, find the top, find a solid metal rod (ratchet extension for example if you don't have a brass drift) and wail on it with a hammer. Once you 'wake it up' it will start to come out easier, but mine was in there pretty good. I hit the thing much harder that i thought was wise, then hit it harder and it started moving.
quote from 924board.org when i was trying to get mine out
the trick is to use something solid as an extension. anything with a plastic handle will absorb too much of the shock. That initial shock of the impact is what is needed to break it loose.
Make sure you're hitting the shaft and not the stop pin though. easy enough to tell if you just look in the hole before hitting.
That said, that rod is in tight enough that you probably won't get anything in where its needed. Honestly, find the top, find a solid metal rod (ratchet extension for example if you don't have a brass drift) and wail on it with a hammer. Once you 'wake it up' it will start to come out easier, but mine was in there pretty good. I hit the thing much harder that i thought was wise, then hit it harder and it started moving.
quote from 924board.org when i was trying to get mine out
Other than that, hit both ends with PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc. and pound away. Use a brass drift if you have one, other wise I've used a large center punch.
Make sure you're hitting the shaft and not the stop pin though. easy enough to tell if you just look in the hole before hitting.
02-08-2008 | 01:05 AM
#21
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From: Erie, PA/ Bethel Park, PA (Pittsburgh)
For some reason, this statement just doesn't sound right!
--Lizard
02-08-2008 | 01:41 AM
#23
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 809
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From: Nashua NH
I wish i had a picture, but i just don't, never took one of that side. Ok, until i can dig up a picture from the wonders of the internet, look at the bell housing dead on from the side the torque tube attached. the bottom (which you have found. where the lock screw and threaded end) is on the rightish side towards the bottom. follow that toward the leftish side toward the top. There should be a hole that you can look down in and see the end of the shaft as well as a small pin perpendicular to it stopping it from moving towards the hole. Thats the best verbal road map i can give.
If anyone else has a pic post it up. if not i'll keep searching the internet for what i can find.
If anyone else has a pic post it up. if not i'll keep searching the internet for what i can find.
02-08-2008 | 01:54 AM
#24
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 809
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From: Nashua NH
ok, this is the best i can do. The picture is from the wrong side of the bell housing. but its all i could find. You can see the shaft, and i pointed out the holes it sits in in the bell housing. Using this you can follow it to where the hole should be. Sorry i couldn't post anyhting that showed exactly what you want to see, i just don't have anyhting
02-09-2008 | 04:00 AM
#27
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You HAVE loosened the lock bolt, right?
You HAVE taken the slave cylinder off, right?
OK try this. Thread a bolt into the end of the rod. Thread it in all the way until it is all the way in. Then keep turning it - it should make the rod itself start spinning. Use an impact gun if you have one. This might help loosen the rod and get it moving. Then just pull it out as you turn. Works for me.
It is VITAL that you have the bellhousing positioned all the way ON the engine (so put it back on all the way). If the bellhousing is hanging off partially, then the pressure plate is stressing the end of the fork, and the fork is causing the rod to bind.
You HAVE taken the slave cylinder off, right?
OK try this. Thread a bolt into the end of the rod. Thread it in all the way until it is all the way in. Then keep turning it - it should make the rod itself start spinning. Use an impact gun if you have one. This might help loosen the rod and get it moving. Then just pull it out as you turn. Works for me.
It is VITAL that you have the bellhousing positioned all the way ON the engine (so put it back on all the way). If the bellhousing is hanging off partially, then the pressure plate is stressing the end of the fork, and the fork is causing the rod to bind.
02-09-2008 | 09:10 AM
#28
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,141
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From: New Jersey
Loosen the 10-mm locknut and then back out the small lock nut. Using a long 8-mm bolt (with large head) and nut, screw it into the end of the forkshaft and twist it until the forksahft spins. BEFORE screwing the bolt into the forkshaft, use a boxwrench that will not slide over the large head. Then insert the bolt and tap on the boxwrench with a hammer to pull out the forkshaft.
