[HOW TO] bypass cycling valve
09-18-2007, 09:15 AM
#1
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[HOW TO] bypass cycling valve
Hello There,
I’m having some boost problems with my 944 turbo S.
My current setup is pretty stock, though a 3 bar FPR, Guru chips, a Tial WG and a Relia Boost Controller are added to run on 1.0 bar boost. (14.5 PSI) The Relia BC is connected via the Banjo bolt, in series with the Cycling valve.
This setup worked well for about one year. The last couple of weeks a boost problem occurred, only 0.6 bar (in stead of 1.0 bar) pressure is reached and also above 4000 rpm the boost pressure even drops further. This is monitored with a mechanical VDO boost meter.
Because my vacuum lines and WG are all new and OK, I suspect the Cycling valve to be the problem. Maybe the problem lies somewhere else, but first I want to delete the Cycling valve anyway.
Now for my question, what is the best way to delete the Cycling valve?
a. – Un-plug the whole unit and rearrange the hoses so the Relia is the only boost controller controlling the WG?
b. – Leave the Cycling valve in place, plug all the connections so there shut and rearrange the hoses so the Relia is the only boost controller controlling the WG?
c. – Leave the Cycling valve in place, leave all the connections open and rearrange the hoses so the Relia is the only boost controller controlling the WG?
d. – An option I haven’t thought off maybe?
My thoughts are to go for option b or a, I’m not sure option c is an option anyway ..
Any information is welcome, if my story is unclear in any way (English is not my native language) please let me know and I’ll try to make things clear.
Manny thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Peronnik Beijer
Netherlands
I’m having some boost problems with my 944 turbo S.
My current setup is pretty stock, though a 3 bar FPR, Guru chips, a Tial WG and a Relia Boost Controller are added to run on 1.0 bar boost. (14.5 PSI) The Relia BC is connected via the Banjo bolt, in series with the Cycling valve.
This setup worked well for about one year. The last couple of weeks a boost problem occurred, only 0.6 bar (in stead of 1.0 bar) pressure is reached and also above 4000 rpm the boost pressure even drops further. This is monitored with a mechanical VDO boost meter.
Because my vacuum lines and WG are all new and OK, I suspect the Cycling valve to be the problem. Maybe the problem lies somewhere else, but first I want to delete the Cycling valve anyway.
Now for my question, what is the best way to delete the Cycling valve?
a. – Un-plug the whole unit and rearrange the hoses so the Relia is the only boost controller controlling the WG?
b. – Leave the Cycling valve in place, plug all the connections so there shut and rearrange the hoses so the Relia is the only boost controller controlling the WG?
c. – Leave the Cycling valve in place, leave all the connections open and rearrange the hoses so the Relia is the only boost controller controlling the WG?
d. – An option I haven’t thought off maybe?
My thoughts are to go for option b or a, I’m not sure option c is an option anyway ..
Any information is welcome, if my story is unclear in any way (English is not my native language) please let me know and I’ll try to make things clear.
Manny thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Peronnik Beijer
Netherlands
09-18-2007, 09:49 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
from the banjo, a line should run straight to the wg- with the boost controller T'd into this line. The other side of the boost controller should go to the other side of the WG. Your CV can be pulled out. The line going to the J-boot can be plugged- at the hose or at the j-boot.
- you can unplug the wires on the CV and tuck them under the intake no problems.
- you can unplug the wires on the CV and tuck them under the intake no problems.
09-18-2007, 10:04 AM
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Thanks for the replay.
OK, but when the CV is completely unplugged, won't the KLR 'miss it' and go into 'panic' mode? Ore something like it, if you get my drift?
On the other hand, is the KLR so old school that it doesn't check for this sort of event?
PS I think this post is in the wrong sub-forum, maybe it should be replaced here?
OK, but when the CV is completely unplugged, won't the KLR 'miss it' and go into 'panic' mode? Ore something like it, if you get my drift?
On the other hand, is the KLR so old school that it doesn't check for this sort of event?
PS I think this post is in the wrong sub-forum, maybe it should be replaced here?
09-18-2007, 10:22 AM
#4
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Thanks for the replay.
OK, but when the CV is completely unplugged, won't the KLR 'miss it' and go into 'panic' mode? Ore something like it, if you get my drift?
On the other hand, is the KLR so old school that it doesn't check for this sort of event?
PS I think this post is in the wrong sub-forum, maybe it should be replaced here?
OK, but when the CV is completely unplugged, won't the KLR 'miss it' and go into 'panic' mode? Ore something like it, if you get my drift?
On the other hand, is the KLR so old school that it doesn't check for this sort of event?
PS I think this post is in the wrong sub-forum, maybe it should be replaced here?
"miss it".
Last edited by Judson951; 09-18-2007 at 11:04 AM.
OK cool, thanks guys 
