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How to: Rear seat delete, sound dampeing plus subbox install (56k Die)

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Old 05-04-2007, 02:50 AM
  #31  
V2Rocket
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I must say that's pretty nifty.
Old 05-04-2007, 06:51 AM
  #32  
billthe3
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Originally Posted by hpservertech
In case you need to get in there to replace things.

I used fatmat (good price and easy to work with), then realized that I covered it up and went back and tore out that area. Never know when/if you might need to get in there.

Wheel well is a great place to help quiet things down. I'll try to find some pics tonight. I ended up doing the entire car...front to back in fatmat. Less then $100 with shipping.
How much fatmat did you end up using? Looks like they've got a 50sq ft and a 100sq ft package on their site, would the 100 be overkill?

http://www.fatmat.com/
Old 05-04-2007, 01:30 PM
  #33  
Royalty
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i used a 16x25ft roll for mine and did 2 layers of it. The only place not covered is the pass side well and directly over the wheel arches.

I would def say the 100 is overkill. Unless you wanted to sell it to some listers for a nice discount
Old 05-04-2007, 02:09 PM
  #34  
hpservertech
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If you want to do the entire car you will need 100sq ft. actually will need a little bit more then that but it depends on how much overlap you do. 50 will barely get the hatch, wheel well & sides done.
Old 05-04-2007, 02:10 PM
  #35  
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That is looking real good!
Old 05-04-2007, 02:17 PM
  #36  
Jay Gratton
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Great post. I can't wait to see how the finished project comes out. With all of time your already taking it should look GREAT!
Old 05-04-2007, 02:52 PM
  #37  
Royalty
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Originally Posted by hpservertech
If you want to do the entire car you will need 100sq ft. actually will need a little bit more then that but it depends on how much overlap you do. 50 will barely get the hatch, wheel well & sides done.

ya know, i was contemplating doing the entire car. Might as well go all the way if im gonna do it. hmmmm I'll save that for another post though. This thread is strictly for the junk in my trunk! hahaha

Originally Posted by Jay Gratton
Great post. I can't wait to see how the finished project comes out. With all of time your already taking it should look GREAT!
Thank you, I just want to contribute something to the list for all the info you guys/gals have given me.
Old 05-04-2007, 03:13 PM
  #38  
KuHL 951
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I love how when you pull the seats you can finally move around so well in the cab. I worked for 2 days on my rear seat project before I slapped myself up along side the head and said "Enough of this $hite, pull those damn seats" The project car I'm buried in will have the FatMat product. Nothing cuts resonance better than butyl rubber bonded to sheetmetal...the engine swap comes first though. Keep us posted on the progress.
Old 05-04-2007, 03:27 PM
  #39  
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sure thing, and dont forget to send me that email.
Old 05-04-2007, 03:31 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Royalty
sure thing, and dont forget to send me that email.
All I have are pics, no real patterns to share but the measurements are fairly simple to get.
Old 05-07-2007, 03:20 AM
  #41  
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Ok today went pretty slow. there is this storm brewing off the coast and its making things here very cold, rainy and windy. Eghck.

I decided I'll throw on a few layers of clothes and press on.
Being that i had to constantly worry about rain i did just a few small but important steps.

Ok if the box is going to cover the tire well it will need to be sealed. Unfortunately for this thing its in the way of accomplishing my goal so its gotta go.


I then got my angle grinder and went to work. TIP: put on some HEAVY DUTY GLOVES, those sparks and metal flakes go rite thru ur mechanics cloves. IN the pic i actually have on both pair of gloves. On my face I had a full face clear plastic welders type mask and had safety goggles under that.

Safety here is paramount. A lil flake of metal in your eye can be excruciating, the trip to eh ER sux even worse, ask me how a know.


Cutting


Grinding down


Finished



Now on to measuring my box gasket.


what the cutouts look like (notice how its cut to go under the light)


Installed


and i added another level to even up the back.



In case ur wondering I'm not going to have loose foam back there.
Its going to go like this.
-The foam on the silver part will be glued down and laced with silicone to ensure its seal.
-The 1st layer of foam on the rear and passenger side of the car will also get the glue/silicone treatment.
-The reaming foam will be attached to the board the same way.

Heres my dilemma..
I need something that will seal but not stick forever. In the event I need to take the box up i dont want to completely destroy my foam seal.
I'm thinking about using Crisco, seriously.

ANy other ideas?
Old 05-07-2007, 03:47 AM
  #42  
Yummybud924
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about Fat mat, I did a lot of research and I don't know if it's true but a lot of people say to stay away from Fat mat and othe sound deadners that are asphalt/tar based, some people report them melting in the summer when it gets hot, they also stink and can wreck your interior if it melts.

that's why I got the edead, they have fatmat / b quiet extreme on ebay cheaper and it's in Canada but I was too scared to get those because they are both tar/ ashpalt based.

the new edead is butyl based so it won't melt like some say the asphalt stuff can. But I'm not sure how well edead sticks and how well it deadens. Most of the other butyl deadners like dynomat extreme, b quiet ultimate are way too expensive.
Old 05-07-2007, 12:10 PM
  #43  
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ok you could go my route
Old 05-07-2007, 01:05 PM
  #44  
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I believe FatMat is butyl rubber based not asphaltic. You must be thinking of another product.
Old 05-07-2007, 01:26 PM
  #45  
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fatmat is like dynamat then? you hit it with a heat gun until it starts to get sticky then apply it?


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