hpservertech

fatmat is butyl based. Almost all of these kinds are now. Can it still stink.....yes. But it all comes down to installation. If you just put it on when it's cold or just warm it wont stick as good and will heat up later. If you use a heat gun or even a good hot hair dryer to help get it real hot during install it wont stink later. Have done a few cars with the stuff and it's never stunk on me before.

Are you doing all this for a sub box?

82-T/A

I live in Florida, and I bought a massive trampoline for my wife (she's a character). Typically what I do is just lay the dynamat on the trampoline in the sun for about 30 minutes, and then while I'm working on the car, I cut pieces off as I need them, removing the backing and stick them right on. After about 10 minutes, it's flexible like a fruit roll-up! (just doesn't taste as good).

Todd,
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2004 VW Beetle Convertible (Wife's)
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX-P74
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1984 Porsche 944
1981 Pontiac TransAm WS6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

hpservertech

That's a great way to do it. Another one is to lay it out on asphault. Works the same. cut off what you need then install it. lots of going back and forth, but it does the job.

Royalty

I'm still contemplating on weather to use a fatmat product in the wheel well. I dont think that its necessary and since its all one piece nothing can rattle. Once I seal it off these wont be free air subs either

But at the same time i'm not sure how its going to sound...hmm decisions

Royalty

Went out and got some clear silicone, to assist in keeping it airtight, and traced it along the metal where the foam would be.



i then used my 3M 77 spray and made sure the foam and metal had some before i set them in place. I put them together and used silicone to seal up any spaces.




After putting them together I came to a realization. Since I put down the sound dampening material it has raised the level of the rear and i wouldn't need to put foam in the front anymore! I broke out a big ol ruler to make sure.








Looks level enough to me





Tomorrow I will begin on the box, ohh ahhhh.

Yummybud924

I don't know according to a lot of sites that compare sound deadning, Fatmat is asphalt rubber based. The butyl stuff usually costs much more, like b quiet extreme is asphalt (according to their own site) and b quiet ultimate is butyl based and teh butyl stuff costs much more.

according to this site that compares various sound deadning Fatmat is rubberized asphalt. but maybe they changed now? The new edead v^2 is butyl based now.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/
I have no experience with the asphalt based stuff so I'm not sure if it's as bad as some people claim, about them melting and stinking when it gets hot in the summer.

Pile O Porsche

I just recently purchased some Dynamat Xtreme off eBay (Seller is hifisoundconnection) and it wasn't all that terribly expensive, and because it is butyl based stuff, I'm pretty excited about putting it in and it not smelling.
I researched and came to the conclusion that Second Skin and Dynamat are where it's at for sound deadening. They both get good reviews from sounddeadenershowdown.com which was just one of the many things I read saying not to mess with asphalt based stuff.
However, lots of people have used standard roofing materials, obviously asphalt based, and swear by it for both sound deadening and heat shielding. I guess it's just a matter of deciding how much you can, and are willing, to pay for the assurance of non-stink (Lucky for people in colder climates, they don't even have to worry about this).
I'm a college kid too, but I just decided to bite the bullet and put in something that I won't ever, ever, ever even WANT to redo. I'm also putting in closed cell Neoprene on top to dampen even more sound.
Second Skin (www.secondskinaudio.com) has a really informative website, their three layer system can be translated into cheaper products pretty easily too.
My .02
Lookin' good, Royalty!

KuHL 951

Interesting I posted that link over 10 months ago in a thread by Robby and didn't see the FatMat is 'rubberized asphalt'. That kills it for me, it's too hot out here to have that stuff stinking up the car. I called FatMat this morning and asked if it was butyl rubber, the lady on the phone said it was...go figure. I stick with a butyl product with at least 45 mils of base or use the dual density Neoprene I used last time.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...sound+deadener
Thanks for the correction

Yummybud924

yeah no problem.

I'm just wondering why the edead stuff isn't that poular, don't see many reviews on it. The new edead is butyl based and it's still $1 / square foot way cheaper than all the other butyl based stuff so not sure if it's the same quality.

I also don't want to do this job twice and don't want the deadning falling of in a couple fo months.

Royalty

True u have a point but in the case of the system im doing. The only part that might fall would be in the wells.

Royalty

OK I'm back,
Today was a late start 8pm but I got my (old upper seat back) amp rack accomplished.

Ok lets begin by sizing up ur enemy, the seat back.


The seat back really doesn't look that big until you've got it right in front of you. Once you flip it over youre gonna see alot of rusty staples. Save urself a sprained wrist and just use a razor blade.


Pulled the skin off and then started with the foam.


The big pieces from the top were a breeze, but not so much as i got closer to the wood.


This stuff is a B!TCH. its REALLY up there. i used goof off spray and it helped a lil bit. Razor blades are useless because the wood is so soft that the blade will catch every time. I used this thing and it did a good job. I used a 40grit piece of sand paper and it was useless too. Best of luck to those who try.


From there I needed to start to build the rack.
I take one last look at the sounds and walk out.









The garage is full of stuff we I move to the backyard palace.

Seats 20, surround sound, full size fridge with "adult beverages", 27" tv, a real live turtle dove (it likes jazz), 3 grills, mood lights and a translucent top.
Our Man palace
back on topic...







I had to have enough space to mount my amps, have the distro blocks showing and conceal the wire. Since I'm using a 4 gauge wire to power them i needed a space large enough because they don't really bend that well.

Making my spacers

wood is 1" thick. Plenty of room for the wires, yay.

put top on and locate perfect screw.


Side is a lil long


Its ok the jogsaw will fix that.


I had to put two pieces of wood together but i arraged the supports so that spot is secure.


DOne

THis is the seat standing up by itslef. I'm looking down on the glass table..



Since I'm making a mess and pissin my neighbors of, it's 11pm, i decide to do my sub rings for the box.



Yes ladies and gents. I am going to have to go all out and make a glass boxtop. I mad a terrible mistake and I didn't take into account that all that bass hitting the glass would sound like *** and it could cause the glass to separate from the frame.

My new design will have them angled...let me slow down.
Thats next week.

I'm off on Saturday

Zero10

Stupid question, but why cut the rings from plywood with a jigsaw?
When I made rings in the past I just made a jig for my router, screwed it into the center and spun the router around. Makes a perfect circle every time, and takes like 30-45 seconds a ring to make. Just make a large triangle of thin wood (1/8" plywood is fine), drill a 1" hole in it for your router bit to stick through, and use the mounting screws for the base on the router to attach it (countersink the heads).

Other than that, any plans for the edges of your amp rack? Going to carpet it?

billthe3

Fancy fancy. You could do a thick lexan sheet for the subs. That would be thick enough to mount the subs on without wood and should be heavy enough to not sound like crap.


I'm going to post my big stereo thread later today. I would have done it tonight, but I realized my mom downloaded some of the pictures onto her comp and didn't leave them on the camera, so I won't be able to get them till tomorrow.

Royalty

Because it was convenient. The router was close but I had no actual table to secure the wood to. I clamped it on one side and held the other side. The router table was back in the garage besides it was scary and dark outside.
Most def. I have plenty of carpet /o backing (more flexible) to carpet it. I'm going to have the edges tuxedo looped for a clean look.


Not following you bill. Can you elaborate a little bit.

Awesome! 944 projects rock!

Hoosier Daddy?

The pictures in post #50 suggest that you won't be able to change light bulbs in the passenger side tail light once everything is built. I hope, I'm wrong.