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camshaft cheeshead bolt

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Old 06-11-2006, 06:04 AM
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bigal13
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Default camshaft cheeshead bolt

hi


i need to change the seal at the front of the camshaft but i cant get the cheeshead bolt to move, what is the best method of slacking it off ,should i leave the timing belt on and use the engine compression to hold the camshaft while i slacking the bolt or is a impact screw driver the better option, remember the engine is still in the car


how did you guys remove this bolt i am worried that it rounds of and have to drill it out, did you guys reuse this bolt or replace it with a ordinary bolt if so what is the size of bolt do i need and what type of material its made with
Old 06-11-2006, 07:46 PM
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peterjcb
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If you take the valve cover off you can get a wrench on a flat section of the camshaft to hold it as you "try" to loosen the cheesehead bolt. Chances are very good that you might have to drill it out. Good luck.
I replaced mine with a hexhead bolt...do not use another cheesehead on it.
Old 06-11-2006, 08:12 PM
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theedge
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Take the rotor cover off. The cam gear has a hex head section. Youll need a big wrench, 28 or 32MM or so. Get someone to hold it so you can use both hands on the breaker bar for the cheesehead bolt, so that it stays perfectly straight.
Old 06-11-2006, 08:12 PM
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Yea, IIRC it takes a 32mm wrench you hold the cam gear (use the box end). This works the best to have someone else hold the wrench, and you hit the cheese head. Wake it up with a couple of sharp taps from a punch and hammer first, then try and turn it out. That bolt is a real bugger, I think i have drilled out more than I have actually gotten out with a tool. And that is using air tools and good snap on bits.

If you do have to drill it out, once the head is drilled off, it will come out easily.
Old 06-11-2006, 09:24 PM
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Yabo
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Yeah.. drilling it is a bitch too though. Get it straight. It takes a while to get thorugh the head and there is no way to tell if you are deep enough or too deep. I drilled into my camshaft a little bit when I did it one time. The next time i made sure to wake up the bolt well on the next one i did and I was able to turn it out.
Old 06-11-2006, 09:48 PM
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joseph mitro
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Originally Posted by peterjcb
If you take the valve cover off you can get a wrench on a flat section of the camshaft to hold it as you "try" to loosen the cheesehead bolt. Chances are very good that you might have to drill it out. Good luck.
I replaced mine with a hexhead bolt...do not use another cheesehead on it.
agree with above
Old 06-11-2006, 11:05 PM
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35thSLP
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I have doen this several times and waking it up with a 5lb hammer and the cheese head bit has worked every time. Good Luck!
Old 06-12-2006, 05:10 AM
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bigal13
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hi


can these chesehead bolt be drilled out with the engine in the car??
Old 06-12-2006, 08:34 AM
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peterjcb
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Yes.
Here's another thread on the infamous cheesehead bolt.
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/247796-stripped-camshaft-shaft-cheesehead-any-ideas.html
Old 06-12-2006, 09:08 AM
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xsboost90
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put the socket in there, smack it a few times to wake it up, then hold the cam and pull it out. Make sure you have the right socket and not a cheapy. Order a new one from the dealer or somewhere.
Old 06-12-2006, 05:22 PM
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dacula951
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Waking it up did not work in my case and the cheesehead stripped out. With the engine in, drilling is best done with a right angle drill. I found the cheese head to be surface hardened, so the drill bit didn't do much at first. I then used a dremel with a mini grinding wheel to get down below the surface hardness. When I drilled down in and got close, I heard a pinging sound and the head popped right off. Turning out the remaining portion of the bolt was a breeze.

I'd recommend getting the new bolt first for reference when drilling. Select a drill bit size just at or slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt's shaft. If you then drill straight and on-center, you'll do no damage and the head will pop. Good luck.
Old 06-12-2006, 07:43 PM
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Granite 944
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Originally Posted by peterjcb
Yes.
Here's another thread on the infamous cheesehead bolt.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247796
Yep, thats me. Just my opinion, I prefer to have and use the cheesehead bolt. Like most other things, once ya do it, get used to it, and get the "right" tools" and learn the proper usage of such..........lifes good! Torque value is higher on the cheesehead/12 point serrated bolt also. I kinda like that.
Old 06-13-2006, 01:09 AM
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sww914
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Step One
Wurth makes a product called Rost Off, and there's also one called PB Blaster.
These penetrating oils have saved me a lot of trouble.
On a super tight bolt, always spray it first, then use impact. Put a tool on or in the fastener and hit it hard several times inline with the fastener, and when you have the tool in place to loosen the bolt, rather than twisting with your hand, hit it with the hammer in the loosening direction.
Impact on the fastener, again, to try to break it loose. Torquing on the bolt may twist it off, where impact will probably break it loose.
Step Two
Heat & impact
The best thing to do is to heat the metal boss that the fastener threads into, causing it to expand and loosen it's death grip, but that won't be possible in this case, so heat the head of the fastener with an acetylene torch if you have it, propane or MAP gas if you don't.
Don't get it hot enough to destroy anything, but heat it for as long as your will allows you to.
If you're just heating the head, as in this case, heat it up and let it cool a couple of times to allow the expansion of the fastener's threads to break up the crud in the hole a little bit.
Next, heat it up some, put the tool on, and hit it with the hammer in order to loosen it. Repeat as necessary.
If you've stripped the head by now, it's time for step 3
Step 3
Hammer and chisel
Take a nice, all steel chisel and a comfortable hammer, and begin to form a notch in the edge of the head of the fastener, hammering directly towards the center. After you've formed a deep enough notch, begun tapping and rotating the chisel around, still inside of the notch, until the impact of the hammer blows will begin to rotate the bolt and loosen it. This usually works.
Step four
If you've broken the bolt off, rather than drill out the center and try an easy-out, I have a special technique.
I take a nut, larger than the broken bolt, ie, an 8mm nut for a broken 6mm stud, a 10mm or 12mm nut for an 8mm bolt, etc, and hold it very carefully, completely centered over the broken bolt with pliers or vice grips.
After it's in place, I very carefully MIG weld through the hole in the nut, taking great care not to weld to the metal adjacent to the broken bolt, weld all the way out until the hole in the nut is nearly full.
Now, I know I sound like a broken record, but let it cool for a few seconds and the hit it with some impact. don't twist, impact! If the nut doesn't stay on, try again, several times if necessary.
Step 5
You're screwed, drill it out.
Good luck, and remember, Impact!



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