The longest clutch change . . .
#1
Racer
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The longest clutch change . . .
It's OK though, not my daily driver.
YET
Part of me wants to keep trying to knock it out with a drift, another part says to slot it with a dremel and try a screwdriver.
Other options are to drill it out, try an extractor up to jerking the engine if needed.
Never call a 944 dull!
YET
Part of me wants to keep trying to knock it out with a drift, another part says to slot it with a dremel and try a screwdriver.
Other options are to drill it out, try an extractor up to jerking the engine if needed.
Never call a 944 dull!
#2
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Avoid those extractors, theyre worthless ****.
Heres something that has worked for me. Youll need an assortment of cheap Torx bits, and some drill bits. Pick a small Torx bit, drill a hole a touch smaller than its teeth at their mid point. Then hammer the Torx bit into the hole, and see if itll twist out. This has worked for me several times amazingly. Dont use too small a Torx bit compared to the bolt, and try and hammer it in there pretty well.
If that doesnt work, slot it and try a screwdriver. If that fails, drill bigger holes until it falls apart or is drilled out. Then retap as needed. Make sure you try to get the hole for the Torx bits as centered as humanly possible, that will make it easier should you need to drill the whole thing out.
Heres something that has worked for me. Youll need an assortment of cheap Torx bits, and some drill bits. Pick a small Torx bit, drill a hole a touch smaller than its teeth at their mid point. Then hammer the Torx bit into the hole, and see if itll twist out. This has worked for me several times amazingly. Dont use too small a Torx bit compared to the bolt, and try and hammer it in there pretty well.
If that doesnt work, slot it and try a screwdriver. If that fails, drill bigger holes until it falls apart or is drilled out. Then retap as needed. Make sure you try to get the hole for the Torx bits as centered as humanly possible, that will make it easier should you need to drill the whole thing out.
#3
Racer
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OK, $30.00 for this set, ready to cut a slot in it for a screwdriver.
If it lasts that long, I am happy.
Heck, even has a rotozip-like attachment and blades -
If it lasts that long, I am happy.
Heck, even has a rotozip-like attachment and blades -
#7
Drifting
Place a large washer to cover only the hole opening- drop a 13mm hex bolt inside, and lay a generous bead of MIG stick-weld to extract that nasty bugger and roll once again victorious. Total cost=$2(if you can access the porta-welder).
Zach
Zach
Last edited by Dilberto; 01-09-2006 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Add text
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#8
Hey Man
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I am always amazed that some people have any success at all removing a broken bolt like yours. My experience tells me if a bolt that large was corroded and frozen enough to break; I could never get it out with an EZ out or similar method. I would just drill it out completly and try to rechase the threads or over drill and use a Heli-Coil or similar insert. Sorry it's going so slow but this is what 944 clutch horror stories are made of.
#10
RL Community Team
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Do you have an oxy-gas set up?
I had a similar story this past weekend as I disassembled the 951 calipers I'll be re-building. A good number of the little (hard to access) bolts that hold on the spring plate were STUCK and I had damaged the socket heads. There was no way to get a drill in, so I cut a single slot with a dremel and tried again with a long shank screwdriverand still no luck. I tried then heating with propane, nothing. Then, I put on my oxy acetylene and got busy with that. Focussed the heat on the bolt and then, viola, it came out like butter. The heat worked wonders on those bolts (most of the sixteen I had to do were stuck pretty good). I really did not know how much of a huge difference it could make.
If you do try that, make temporary heat shields up with several layers of aluminum foil to protect everything, and, light the torch before getting under the car and have an assistant pass it to you.
Good luck!
I had a similar story this past weekend as I disassembled the 951 calipers I'll be re-building. A good number of the little (hard to access) bolts that hold on the spring plate were STUCK and I had damaged the socket heads. There was no way to get a drill in, so I cut a single slot with a dremel and tried again with a long shank screwdriverand still no luck. I tried then heating with propane, nothing. Then, I put on my oxy acetylene and got busy with that. Focussed the heat on the bolt and then, viola, it came out like butter. The heat worked wonders on those bolts (most of the sixteen I had to do were stuck pretty good). I really did not know how much of a huge difference it could make.
If you do try that, make temporary heat shields up with several layers of aluminum foil to protect everything, and, light the torch before getting under the car and have an assistant pass it to you.
Good luck!
#11
Race Car
That's an ugly one to break. If you drill it and re-thread it, you have to get it just about perfect, or else your speed/reference sensor gaps will always be wrong.
Does that bolt go right through? If so, soak the back side of it with lots of PB blaster, or some other kind of penetrant. It might come out yet
Does that bolt go right through? If so, soak the back side of it with lots of PB blaster, or some other kind of penetrant. It might come out yet
#12
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I am done with the dremel and slotting it cr@p, worth a try.
1) I am in my garage, like an idiot, trying to work on this thing myself.
2) The car is as high as I felt I could safely go on jacks, might try to go higher, but no matter, space is limited and lighting sucks.
3) found this surprise:
4) That bolt was not there when I pulled the car apart, and it probably will not be there if and when I put it all back together.
5) It is past time to take a break, when this becomes no fun, there is no reason. This car has proven to be a POS from day one, as the $20K+ I have put into it demonstrates. And imagine if I had to pay someone else to do most of the stuff I had to do, OMG.
6) As mentioned, I need a break.
7) Next step, find a small enough angle drill to fit in that tight spot, then try an extractor.
8) Not a good day.
9) If I have to pull that motor, my car is out for the count. Financially, that is not going to happen. If it has to come out, well, it will be possibly years before I could justify the costs of rod and main bearings, seal kits, all the crap I would need to do ti right.
10) Did I mention it was not a good 944 day for me?
1) I am in my garage, like an idiot, trying to work on this thing myself.
2) The car is as high as I felt I could safely go on jacks, might try to go higher, but no matter, space is limited and lighting sucks.
3) found this surprise:
4) That bolt was not there when I pulled the car apart, and it probably will not be there if and when I put it all back together.
5) It is past time to take a break, when this becomes no fun, there is no reason. This car has proven to be a POS from day one, as the $20K+ I have put into it demonstrates. And imagine if I had to pay someone else to do most of the stuff I had to do, OMG.
6) As mentioned, I need a break.
7) Next step, find a small enough angle drill to fit in that tight spot, then try an extractor.
8) Not a good day.
9) If I have to pull that motor, my car is out for the count. Financially, that is not going to happen. If it has to come out, well, it will be possibly years before I could justify the costs of rod and main bearings, seal kits, all the crap I would need to do ti right.
10) Did I mention it was not a good 944 day for me?
#13
If that is a bellhousing bolt you might consider just going back together without it. There is a boatload of torque on the bellhousing, I somehow doubt that bolt is going to cause the entire unit to shift.
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#14
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Why is pulling the motor such a bad idea?
It ain't that expensive to do rod & main bearings. They're like $200 for a complete set. New oil pan gasket is about 50 bucks. Complete seal kit is about another 200 bucks for everything. That's less than the cost of a clutch kit.
Why on earth do people by something with a badge that says "Porsche" and figure they can mickey-mouse it together. Look man, don't mean to sound harsh or anything, but if you can't afford a few hundred bucks on parts, you shouldn't own a 944. Period. They're 20-year-old sports cars. Things happen. Things come up. They aren't gonna' be cheap when things break. They're not nearly as expensive as a 996TT, and I applaud you for doing your own labor, but seriously, if you can't afford parts for a car like this, you might not have any business owning it. The parts aren't cheap, but they're not all THAT expensive either.
Anyway, good luck with it. Hopefully it all comes together for you.
FWIW, why would you replace the seals - just a "while I'm in there" thing? If they NEED replacing, replace 'em.
It ain't that expensive to do rod & main bearings. They're like $200 for a complete set. New oil pan gasket is about 50 bucks. Complete seal kit is about another 200 bucks for everything. That's less than the cost of a clutch kit.
Why on earth do people by something with a badge that says "Porsche" and figure they can mickey-mouse it together. Look man, don't mean to sound harsh or anything, but if you can't afford a few hundred bucks on parts, you shouldn't own a 944. Period. They're 20-year-old sports cars. Things happen. Things come up. They aren't gonna' be cheap when things break. They're not nearly as expensive as a 996TT, and I applaud you for doing your own labor, but seriously, if you can't afford parts for a car like this, you might not have any business owning it. The parts aren't cheap, but they're not all THAT expensive either.
Anyway, good luck with it. Hopefully it all comes together for you.
FWIW, why would you replace the seals - just a "while I'm in there" thing? If they NEED replacing, replace 'em.
#15
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Originally Posted by MY83944
OK, $30.00 for this set, ready to cut a slot in it for a screwdriver.