Broken Valve Spring
#2
Rennlist Member
insert air compressor fitting that holds pressure on bottom side of valve...
remove cambox.
use trus spring tensioner to remove spring lock and spring, replace
installation is reverse of removal.
remove cambox.
use trus spring tensioner to remove spring lock and spring, replace
installation is reverse of removal.
#4
Race Car
pardon my ignorance, but i don't know if that procedure would work for a 16-valve head, but nonetheless a broken spring indicates potentially something more significant is wrong, as we have communicated via PM.
#5
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by xsboost90
insert air compressor fitting that holds pressure on bottom side of valve...
remove cambox.
use trus spring tensioner to remove spring lock and spring, replace
installation is reverse of removal.
remove cambox.
use trus spring tensioner to remove spring lock and spring, replace
installation is reverse of removal.
I don't quite understand what you're describing. Are you saying that it's possible to replace the spring without removing the head on my S? I have no compression in the cylinder, would the piston hold the valve up...compresses air? ALso, what is the "cambox"?
Please explain.
#7
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Originally Posted by Rock
how the hell do you find out if you broke a valve spring
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#8
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Rock
how the hell do you find out if you broke a valve spring
#10
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sounds like a different problem maybe. Shops use a fitting that screws into the spark plug hole that pressurizes the cylinder and holds the valves closed while your pulling the spring so you dont drop it into the piston. Ive never worked on an S so i couldnt tell you if its harder on one of those.
#12
Burning Brakes
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Richard, thanks for your help yesterday.
I've got the flywheel lock on and started pulling belts off yesterday afternoon.
From what I see on Joseph Mitro's website, timing the cams back in place doesn't really seem that hard. Hopefully I'll be able to get the Cam's out without too much trouble. THen after the head is out I can access exactly what I'm going to do.
I foresee a head install GTG coming soon.
I've got the flywheel lock on and started pulling belts off yesterday afternoon.
From what I see on Joseph Mitro's website, timing the cams back in place doesn't really seem that hard. Hopefully I'll be able to get the Cam's out without too much trouble. THen after the head is out I can access exactly what I'm going to do.
I foresee a head install GTG coming soon.
#14
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Here's an update on the job. The good news is that I got the broken spring out of the head and installed a new set of springs with my home made valve spring compressor. I used a 2" piece of PVC coupling that was just the right diameter along with a big screwdriver levered under the rear cam bridge assembly. It allowed me to compress the spring about 3/4 of an inch or so while with the other hand I used a pair of tweezers to drop the retainer into place.
The bad news is that I lost the second retainer lock somewhere down in the oil pan... I hope, and I had problems removing the 10mm cheesehead bolt from the exhaust cam pulley and later discovered that I cracked a piece off the end of my intake cam. Not a good day......
The bad news is that I lost the second retainer lock somewhere down in the oil pan... I hope, and I had problems removing the 10mm cheesehead bolt from the exhaust cam pulley and later discovered that I cracked a piece off the end of my intake cam. Not a good day......
#15
Burning Brakes
Peter,
I'd love to come over and lend a hand but this weekend is out. I will check in for next weekend and if you're still at it I'll come by. Good luck in the meantime.
I'd love to come over and lend a hand but this weekend is out. I will check in for next weekend and if you're still at it I'll come by. Good luck in the meantime.