Crank pulley question
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Crank pulley question
I guess I've kinda done things in reverse order, but I've got the bell housing, clutch & flywheel all off the engine, and it's now mounted to an engine stand.
Thing is the crank pulley is still attached. I tried just putting 2 flywheel bolts in and jamming a screwdriver in there to act as a lock to get the crank pulley loose. Ended up with a bent screwdriver (gotta love craftsman )
Try #2 involved the same two bolts and a 3/8" drive breaker bar. Bent the breaker bar (not as bad as the screw driver though...it's at least still useable), and bent a flywheel bolt. Worse part is I messed up the first 2 threads of one of the holes
Now my question is...what's try #3? I imagine if I had a flat piece of metal with two holes drilled in the right place I could use that as a flywheel lock (or would it be a crank lock since the flywheel isn't there) to get the crank pulley off.
Does anybody make any such tool....for a reasonable price?
Thing is the crank pulley is still attached. I tried just putting 2 flywheel bolts in and jamming a screwdriver in there to act as a lock to get the crank pulley loose. Ended up with a bent screwdriver (gotta love craftsman )
Try #2 involved the same two bolts and a 3/8" drive breaker bar. Bent the breaker bar (not as bad as the screw driver though...it's at least still useable), and bent a flywheel bolt. Worse part is I messed up the first 2 threads of one of the holes
Now my question is...what's try #3? I imagine if I had a flat piece of metal with two holes drilled in the right place I could use that as a flywheel lock (or would it be a crank lock since the flywheel isn't there) to get the crank pulley off.
Does anybody make any such tool....for a reasonable price?
#3
Hey Man
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Big *** Impact Wrench. Once it's on a stand that's about your only choice without tipping the whole thing over or breaking off one of the mounting bolts on the stand. I had to take engine back off the stand, mount a crossmember to it for leverage against the floor and then use a breaker with cheater.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hmm...any idea what an impact gun would cost me? Do they make electric ones or would I need to get a compressor. Are the electric ones even worth the effort?
#5
Hey Man
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You'll never get it off with an electric impact, at least any that I've seen for normal use auto shop use. Any good twin-hammer air unit with a 500-600 ft/lb rating should make short order of it unless someone used the breaker bar and starter motor method to tighten it. Having a good compressor and air tools is the beat thing I've found. I used a friends cheap HF Thundergun ($79) after I had to pop my P-car crank bolt but I'm confident it would have worked just fine with a motor on a stand. I've pulled axle nuts as high as 190 ft/lb without problems so far. I was impressed with HF unit for the money but would probably opt persionally for the Ingersoll-Rand unit HF copied it from. My present impact gun at 300# has removed anything I asked it to do so far. If you get a compressor, be sure and get one that provide at least 8-10 cfm if you plan on using bigger tools. Even that size is a bit small for most die grinders, in-line sanders, and HVLP spray guns. I sure others have better suggestions.
#6
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If you don't already have one, then your best option is to get the engine on the ground, put the flywheel back on, bell housing back on, flywheel lock on it, and then wrench it off. Or make up your own steel strap (get a fairly long peice from a hardware store and drill it up accordingly), attach it to the back of the crank if you don't have the flywheel lock. Cheaper than a compressor/impact. Good luck.
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Granite 944
If you don't already have one, then your best option is to get the engine on the ground, put the flywheel back on, bell housing back on, flywheel lock on it, and then wrench it off. Or make up your own steel strap (get a fairly long peice from a hardware store and drill it up accordingly), attach it to the back of the crank if you don't have the flywheel lock. Cheaper than a compressor/impact. Good luck.
Hmm....wonder what would happen if I took some bailer wire (probably 14 gauge(?) steel cable) and just tied off 8 of the flywheel bolts to the engine stand (2 bolts per stand arm). I can get bailer wire for free....so this may be a good option if it's strong enough. Only real concern then would be breaking the stand....but I could probably brace it pretty good with a helper.
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Burning Brakes
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 944_S_TYPE
Strap wrench around the pulley?
As for taking it off the stand...can I take the head off without taking the crank pulley off? I think this would make it much lighter & easier to pick up. I should be able to just pull the timing belt & then take the top end apart....right?
#15
Jane Bond 007
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Best bet is the flywheel lock. I have used the rope trick and it worked like a charm. Make sure you use something soft (cotton twine) that won't scratch the cylinder walls.