Crank pulley question
#16
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Scootin159
Considering I'm gonna be using a 4' breaker bar on the other end...and still pushing hard....I feel sorry for whever holds the strap wrench. Thanks for the suggestion none the less.
As for taking it off the stand...can I take the head off without taking the crank pulley off? I think this would make it much lighter & easier to pick up. I should be able to just pull the timing belt & then take the top end apart....right?
As for taking it off the stand...can I take the head off without taking the crank pulley off? I think this would make it much lighter & easier to pick up. I should be able to just pull the timing belt & then take the top end apart....right?
#17
Race Car
How much work are you planning on doing?
If you're pulling the oil pan, once it's off, insert a 2x4 such that it blocks the crank from turning, without marking up the cylinders, it's pretty easy to find a position that will work. The bolt will come off as if the flywheel is locked then. That's how I did mine, since I had already removed the head, and oil pan before I realized that it needed to come off.
That way it can stay on the engine stand.
If you're pulling the oil pan, once it's off, insert a 2x4 such that it blocks the crank from turning, without marking up the cylinders, it's pretty easy to find a position that will work. The bolt will come off as if the flywheel is locked then. That's how I did mine, since I had already removed the head, and oil pan before I realized that it needed to come off.
That way it can stay on the engine stand.
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Zero10
How much work are you planning on doing?
If you're pulling the oil pan, once it's off, insert a 2x4 such that it blocks the crank from turning, without marking up the cylinders, it's pretty easy to find a position that will work. The bolt will come off as if the flywheel is locked then. That's how I did mine, since I had already removed the head, and oil pan before I realized that it needed to come off.
That way it can stay on the engine stand.
If you're pulling the oil pan, once it's off, insert a 2x4 such that it blocks the crank from turning, without marking up the cylinders, it's pretty easy to find a position that will work. The bolt will come off as if the flywheel is locked then. That's how I did mine, since I had already removed the head, and oil pan before I realized that it needed to come off.
That way it can stay on the engine stand.
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Pray that some idiot in the past didn't use any locktite on the crank bolt. I still have one crank that is out of the engine, hammered with my IR 600 ft-lb 1/2 impact wrench that didn't even budge it. I'm thinking that crank will soon be donated to the scrap metal pile.
A good air impact wrench is your friend. Beg/borrow/steal one for the job, it'll take 30 seconds at most.
Dal.
A good air impact wrench is your friend. Beg/borrow/steal one for the job, it'll take 30 seconds at most.
Dal.
#20
Race Car
Dal, did you try heating the crank while you were using your impact gun? Might be just enough to get it off.
The block of wood technique worked perfectly for me. I would reccomend it to anybody else in the same situation.
The block of wood technique worked perfectly for me. I would reccomend it to anybody else in the same situation.