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over heating still.

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Old 02-28-2005, 12:40 AM
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kennycoulter
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Default over heating still.

newer water pump from andy, new thermostat, newer lower rad hose, new upper rad hose, new used rad from macfreak, no leaks from anywhere, tested the fans ala clarks garage.....at first i had a bad connection that the drivers side fan wouldnt come on, then all the fan tests worked out......both hoses seem warm(it got really cold, so it mightve actually been hot, but i couldnt tell) basically both upper and lower hoses were the same temp......if the thermostat or pump was bad, the lower should be cold right? meaning water isnt circulating. i am getting heat out of the vents, i have had the car very hot and the air release valve open for a while. i havent taken the rad cap off before the air screw because i didnt want to get sprayed, but there was no pressure at the radiator cap AFTER the screw was undone.....but that should be normal right? cooling fans are jumpered right now so a wire is acting like the switch is constant, but this is not cooling the engine off. also noticed that a sensor or sender of some sort only has one connector on it. there is a large bundle of wires(covered in the gray overcoat thing) that goes under the intake. there is a smaller wire wrapped in gray that wraps around this, and has one connector on the sending unit or sensor that is at the very top of the block beside the throttle body. what is it? does it have anything to do with temp?
Old 02-28-2005, 12:45 AM
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porschefig
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I'm sure you've explained previously, so, I should search, but.....:

Is the car boiling over/extremely hot/etc. It seems like everything is normal except the temp gauge.
Old 02-28-2005, 02:24 AM
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GOBOGIE
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There was a tech question in February's Panorama with this same almost exact question.
Old 02-28-2005, 04:56 AM
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Mark944na86
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How are you "burping" it?

-Mark
Old 02-28-2005, 05:49 AM
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Luis de Prat
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Is the radiator in the car still the original unit? It may be stopped up.
Old 02-28-2005, 05:51 AM
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Mark944na86
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He said "new used radiator from macfreak" above. But generally "new used" is not going to be as good as "new new", so it certainly worth considering.
Old 02-28-2005, 07:30 AM
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bearone
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i drove over a year on a USED radiator in the 84, bought it for $100+usps and didn't have any problems.

new from ebay was 2-3x's+shipping and i didn't know if the ebay seller could be trusted.
from porsche even more expensive.
Old 02-28-2005, 08:20 AM
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Chris_924s
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Have you backflushed the coolant system? Checked for foreign objects at the rad outlet? How old it the overflow tank cap? Check the temp sensor- it may be reading bad, use a IR thermometer to verify the guage is correct.

HTH.
Old 02-28-2005, 09:08 AM
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Luis de Prat
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Originally Posted by Mark944na86
He said "new used radiator from macfreak" above.
My bad, since he wrote "rad" for radiator, I missed it.

In that case, if all the cooling system related parts have been replaced except the thermostat, that's definitely a good place to check.

Originally Posted by kennycoulter
i havent taken the rad cap off before the air screw because i didnt want to get sprayed, but there was no pressure at the radiator cap AFTER the screw was undone.....but that should be normal right?
Also wouldn't hurt to go ahead and replace the expansion tank cap. They really help the system build pressure and cool better. If yours has never been replaced, I think it's worth the $8. At least it was worth it on my 83.
Old 02-28-2005, 09:23 AM
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In that case, if all the cooling system related parts have been replaced except the thermostat, that's definitely a good place to check.
He said he's already put in a new thermostat too (1st line, 2nd item listed.)

Maybe this says something about the utility of writing in paragraphs.

-Mark
Old 02-28-2005, 09:38 AM
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Luis de Prat
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Originally Posted by Mark944na86
He said he's already put in a new thermostat too (1st line, 2nd item listed.)

Maybe this says something about the utility of writing in paragraphs.

-Mark


At least the expansion tank cap suggestion may be worth a shot. Did he replace that as well? Yeah Kenny, maybe some paragraphs would help.
Old 02-28-2005, 09:50 AM
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RedlineMan
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Kenny;

Does the temp stay steady, or jump around? If it jumps around you've got air in the system.

Get the car good and warm, where it is showing too hot on the gauge. Then stick a thermometer in the tank and get a true reading. You can either use a coolant thermometer, or one used for making candy and such from the kitchen. Once you know the real temp, you will be better able to decide what direction to look.

Caps can fail. Every pound of pressure the system loses is worth 3 degrees of temp. The thermostat opens about 190-ish, and the fans turn on at 217. Doesn't take too many pounds lost to make that difference.

I don't trust electrical gauges! Ask me how I know about your scenario!?!
Old 02-28-2005, 02:52 PM
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StoogeMoe
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You say both hoses are WARM? They should be around 200 degrees. They should feel quite hot. I think you have a circulation problem. Either your radiator is restricting flow, your water pump isn't pumping, your new themostat isn't opening properly, or you have air in the system.
Old 02-28-2005, 03:04 PM
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Mighty Shilling
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One quick side note... on my 924S, I know it's keeping cool, but sometimes the gauge jumps up to "overheating"...a quick slap on the dash fixes it... I'm shortly going to replace temp sensors, check the grounds under the dash, and clean the connection to the gauge.
Old 02-28-2005, 05:35 PM
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kennycoulter
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is the thermometer just the fan switch? or does the reading come from the block itself? to take a temperature of the coolant, am i taking it at the coolant tank? so with lower pressure in the system, the temperature goes up? paragraphs are for people with time. the gauge stays pretty steady BUT the first reason i parked the car was the overheating issue, and i decided to do all this stuff......BEFORE all of this, the gauge WAS jumping. thats all i can think of at the moment. does anyone know what the sensor is below the throttle boday at the top of the block, right below the haed surface? is it supposed to have one wire? is it temperature related?


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