over heating still.
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
over heating still.
newer water pump from andy, new thermostat, newer lower rad hose, new upper rad hose, new used rad from macfreak, no leaks from anywhere, tested the fans ala clarks garage.....at first i had a bad connection that the drivers side fan wouldnt come on, then all the fan tests worked out......both hoses seem warm(it got really cold, so it mightve actually been hot, but i couldnt tell) basically both upper and lower hoses were the same temp......if the thermostat or pump was bad, the lower should be cold right? meaning water isnt circulating. i am getting heat out of the vents, i have had the car very hot and the air release valve open for a while. i havent taken the rad cap off before the air screw because i didnt want to get sprayed, but there was no pressure at the radiator cap AFTER the screw was undone.....but that should be normal right? cooling fans are jumpered right now so a wire is acting like the switch is constant, but this is not cooling the engine off. also noticed that a sensor or sender of some sort only has one connector on it. there is a large bundle of wires(covered in the gray overcoat thing) that goes under the intake. there is a smaller wire wrapped in gray that wraps around this, and has one connector on the sending unit or sensor that is at the very top of the block beside the throttle body. what is it? does it have anything to do with temp?
#2
Three Wheelin'
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I'm sure you've explained previously, so, I should search, but.....:
Is the car boiling over/extremely hot/etc. It seems like everything is normal except the temp gauge.
Is the car boiling over/extremely hot/etc. It seems like everything is normal except the temp gauge.
#7
Three Wheelin'
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i drove over a year on a USED radiator in the 84, bought it for $100+usps and didn't have any problems.
new from ebay was 2-3x's+shipping and i didn't know if the ebay seller could be trusted.
from porsche even more expensive.
new from ebay was 2-3x's+shipping and i didn't know if the ebay seller could be trusted.
from porsche even more expensive.
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#8
Nerd Herder
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Have you backflushed the coolant system? Checked for foreign objects at the rad outlet? How old it the overflow tank cap? Check the temp sensor- it may be reading bad, use a IR thermometer to verify the guage is correct.
HTH.
HTH.
#9
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Mark944na86
He said "new used radiator from macfreak" above.
In that case, if all the cooling system related parts have been replaced except the thermostat, that's definitely a good place to check.
Originally Posted by kennycoulter
i havent taken the rad cap off before the air screw because i didnt want to get sprayed, but there was no pressure at the radiator cap AFTER the screw was undone.....but that should be normal right?
#10
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In that case, if all the cooling system related parts have been replaced except the thermostat, that's definitely a good place to check.
Maybe this says something about the utility of writing in paragraphs.
-Mark
#11
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Mark944na86
He said he's already put in a new thermostat too (1st line, 2nd item listed.)
Maybe this says something about the utility of writing in paragraphs.
-Mark
Maybe this says something about the utility of writing in paragraphs.
-Mark
At least the expansion tank cap suggestion may be worth a shot. Did he replace that as well? Yeah Kenny, maybe some paragraphs would help.
#12
Addict
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Kenny;
Does the temp stay steady, or jump around? If it jumps around you've got air in the system.
Get the car good and warm, where it is showing too hot on the gauge. Then stick a thermometer in the tank and get a true reading. You can either use a coolant thermometer, or one used for making candy and such from the kitchen. Once you know the real temp, you will be better able to decide what direction to look.
Caps can fail. Every pound of pressure the system loses is worth 3 degrees of temp. The thermostat opens about 190-ish, and the fans turn on at 217. Doesn't take too many pounds lost to make that difference.
I don't trust electrical gauges! Ask me how I know about your scenario!?!
Does the temp stay steady, or jump around? If it jumps around you've got air in the system.
Get the car good and warm, where it is showing too hot on the gauge. Then stick a thermometer in the tank and get a true reading. You can either use a coolant thermometer, or one used for making candy and such from the kitchen. Once you know the real temp, you will be better able to decide what direction to look.
Caps can fail. Every pound of pressure the system loses is worth 3 degrees of temp. The thermostat opens about 190-ish, and the fans turn on at 217. Doesn't take too many pounds lost to make that difference.
I don't trust electrical gauges! Ask me how I know about your scenario!?!
#13
Rennlist Member
You say both hoses are WARM? They should be around 200 degrees. They should feel quite hot. I think you have a circulation problem. Either your radiator is restricting flow, your water pump isn't pumping, your new themostat isn't opening properly, or you have air in the system.
#14
Wax On, Wax Off
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One quick side note... on my 924S, I know it's keeping cool, but sometimes the gauge jumps up to "overheating"...a quick slap on the dash fixes it... I'm shortly going to replace temp sensors, check the grounds under the dash, and clean the connection to the gauge.
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
is the thermometer just the fan switch? or does the reading come from the block itself? to take a temperature of the coolant, am i taking it at the coolant tank? so with lower pressure in the system, the temperature goes up? paragraphs are for people with time. the gauge stays pretty steady BUT the first reason i parked the car was the overheating issue, and i decided to do all this stuff......BEFORE all of this, the gauge WAS jumping. thats all i can think of at the moment. does anyone know what the sensor is below the throttle boday at the top of the block, right below the haed surface? is it supposed to have one wire? is it temperature related?