Awesome! If this comes out as clean as the HPI bodies, I will be very impressed with your work! I can't imagine how many hours this would take me.

 

I dunno how much power the electric sprint has, but my nitro car seriously shreds those tires. I've got grooves cut into the back tires, and the fronts are nearly bald. The tires are roughly 10 tanks of gas old.

Great for doing some wicked doughnuts though.

 

I kill tires with my electric...it eats the hell out of em...

 

I can form the Lexan mold, in any large scale. Is anybody willing to prototype a 1/10scale wood, or plastic mock-up? I even know somebody who can program a production CNC mill to create cardboard 3D shell models. How many are willing to miniturize their ride, for the sake of RC?


Sign Below:

 

I'll buy a 200mm wide 951 body as long as its not more than maybe $40.

 

I'd buy a couple in case I broke one... price around $30-$40

 

Dan - go for a motor with a single wind... The lower the number of turns the more the torque...
I'm 90% sure that: the turns will equate to how fast the thing will turn, and the winds are how much tq you get out of the thing...
ie, a 16 turn 3 wind will be great for a car, a 16 turn single wind is better for a truck.

 

I would buy at least 1 if it could be done for 40 or less. Possibly two, depends on how poor I am at the time

 

I'll probably take one as well even though I don't even own a 1/10th r/c right now :P
I'll be on the 'maybe' list... I don't want to promise though.

 

i would consider one too. right now i have 996TT body on my electric RC kind of like blue one pictured earlier except mine is red. I also have a Gas powered truck with a blue old style chevy pickup body in blue. I would love to make my RC car have body like my real one though that would be cool.

 

http://hpiracing.com/kits/heritage/rtrn-ss.htm so these really are the standards or averages to go by? what is the width of the gt3 body? would that be an ok body to copy dimensions from? it could be a wider body in relation to the scale length....but i dont know, i dont have on ein front of me. im really hoping to get cracking on this before i have to start a second job again.

 

Those are pretty much the standards, which is why the 1/10 scale cars all require a 200mm body(whether it's an HPI, Traxxas, or anything).

 

andyoucankeepit: is a euro 944 longer than a 996?
Andynine44: dunno on that one man, the euro is shorter than the US
Andynine44: 944
Andynine44: look up specs
andyoucankeepit: where would they be?
Andynine44: I might have a book, lemme look
Andynine44: us 94484 na
Andynine44: 168.9 inches
Andynine44: ROW 84 944 na
Andynine44: 4200mm
andyoucankeepit: im coming up with 4400 mm
andyoucankeepit: from pictures and scaling it up
andyoucankeepit: think people would be pissed?
Andynine44: dunno
Andynine44: that's what the book I have says
andyoucankeepit: 17.33 inches for a 1/10 model, and the 996 was 17.25 in 1/10
Andynine44: us or ROW 944?
andyoucankeepit: i measured a euro
Andynine44: the us was shorter due to the bumperettes only
Andynine44: longer, sorry
andyoucankeepit: the 996 was a gt3
Andynine44: the 944
andyoucankeepit: damn it
Andynine44: ok, the us is longer on the 944 b/c of the bumperettes
Andynine44: there it is,lol
andyoucankeepit: ive been going off of the wheel base of the r.c. chassis, and i scaled the pic to that, making it an actual larger than 1/10 scale compared to an actual 1/10th scale 996
andyoucankeepit: i just wanted to make it to actual scale according to the whell base
Andynine44: this is overall length that I have
andyoucankeepit: instead of making the body to scale and cutting the wheels farther in
andyoucankeepit: crap! this is my conversation with andy. what this shows is according to scale, the wheels will be inboard more than actual, making the proportions off a bit. should i still go on making it according to the wheelbase, or making it to 1/10th scale? if the wheel wells are cut out by the owner, and some chassis' might differ, then the slanted parts aft of the wheel openings might get cut off on some models. i was hoping to retain those details sinse the rear and front details will be lost when i do away with the undercuts.

 

Hmmmm....I think this is the same reason HPI uses their "pass" card on alot of body styles. I'm not sure on this one. I would vote for whichever you think will be least noticable and look the best. I would think that making it to match the wheel base would take the cake on this one. Can it be made to match the scale of the wheel base, and still have clearance on all four sides of the chassis?

 

And also, if you think the body won't look right on the chassis (not refering to your work, just the dimensions that we must work around), or if this is second to other things that are taking up your schedule, feel free to say so, and we promise not to show up as a mob in front of your house or anything I'm amazed someone even thought about trying it and is looking into getting some made!!