Wheel Lug Tourqe Question?
10-30-2004, 09:23 PM
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Wheel Lug Tourqe Question?
Hello Again Everyone,
Okay, probably a stupid question, but I am putting my wheels back on and I looked up the tourqe spec in my Haynes manual and it say 98 ftlbs?! Does this seem like an awful lot for aluminum lug nuts ..... anyone have the correct tourqe spec? Thanks in advance.
Turtle
Okay, probably a stupid question, but I am putting my wheels back on and I looked up the tourqe spec in my Haynes manual and it say 98 ftlbs?! Does this seem like an awful lot for aluminum lug nuts ..... anyone have the correct tourqe spec? Thanks in advance.
Turtle
10-30-2004, 09:24 PM
#2
Race Car
95-98 is what i've always used
10-30-2004, 09:41 PM
#4
96 is what I usually use but 95-98 is the range you want to be in. Further, if you think that is high you should check out some of the older Chevy pickup specs!
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10-30-2004, 11:30 PM
#5
FSM calls for 130Nm (96 ftlb). They are also pretty draconian about using only the special tool P300 and no other sockets wrenches, and lubing with Optimoly TA. Personally, I don't obey the last two points.
might add another 10Nm to be on the safe side 
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10-31-2004, 12:40 AM
#9
Nordschleife Master
I use anti-seize on the lugs to prevent galling for years and no problems. And I'm not sure exactly what the lug nuts are made out of but it isn't just plain old aluminum so don't worry about 96 ft lbs of torque. Though when you track a car they want steel nuts used so there must be something less than great about lightweight nuts.
The controversy over anti-seize has to do with torque specs rather than having the nuts back off, well at least I think. Some of the old cars used to have opposite threads on the lugs on right and left sides to consider wheel rotation.
The anti-anti-seize theory goes if you don't get the crud off when you remove there is more resistance socking the nut down so you are actually under torque. If it is clean with anti-seize there isn't as much thread resistance so you over torque.
The controversy over anti-seize has to do with torque specs rather than having the nuts back off, well at least I think. Some of the old cars used to have opposite threads on the lugs on right and left sides to consider wheel rotation.
The anti-anti-seize theory goes if you don't get the crud off when you remove there is more resistance socking the nut down so you are actually under torque. If it is clean with anti-seize there isn't as much thread resistance so you over torque.
10-31-2004, 01:05 PM
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95ft/lbs with anti seize compound. Aluminum is like steel, there are different alloys with different properties. Not all steel is hard, change the makeup or manufacture methods, and you can go from dead soft pot metal to stuff in the 90Rockwell range. Same thing with aluminum. I'd be it's in the 5051 series.
10-31-2004, 03:26 PM
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Wow, just wante to say that this board is the best. I posted a simple question and within a few hours so many responses. You guys are great! Good to be a member here.
Turtle
Turtle
11-01-2004, 04:50 PM
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One without a torque wrench must first go to a tool shop and buy one.
Rock, if there is a Harbor Freight by you, go there. their torque wrench was proven to be one of the most accurate and it's pretty inexpensive...
Rock, if there is a Harbor Freight by you, go there. their torque wrench was proven to be one of the most accurate and it's pretty inexpensive...