Serge944

Exactly how much of a difference is there between a 18mm rear bar with factory droplinks compared to a 19mm? Also, can someone please explain the pre-load associated with the 3 mounts on the 19mm bar. Right now, im trying to induce as much oversteer as i can with just a sway bar.

Is it worth it to fork over the extra money for the mo3o bar compared to just a used 18mm.

Thanks.

Also, this is my overall plan, how does it sound?

front: 26.8 sway, kyb struts, 220# welts
rear: stock torsion (dont wanna mess with them) 19mm sway, koni shocks (full stiffness)

Im running 205 tires in the front and 225 in the rear. I prefer oversteer as opposed to understeer. My final question is whether putting the 220# springs is overkill, as i dont want to change the torsions or put rear coilovers on.

KuHL 951

Serge,
I wouldn't count on the Koni's on full hard. It's pretty harsh on mine for street use. My rears were on full hard and I had to back them down a bit, made the CD player skip like a schoolgirl on any road. BTW, I'm still polishing the Phone Dials from Hell. They aren't so pretty stripped to bare metal at the moment.

N_Halbert

If you are trying to induce oversteer you don't want to be upping the front spring rate. Putting on stiffer springs on the front will increase understeer.

see Quick Handling Chart from Tirerack.

A stiffer rear bar will make a considerable difference. I have gone with the 968 M030 front and rear. On the stiffest setting is works well for autox but I find I like it a bit softer on the track.

The inexpensive way to change the handling is work with the tire pressures. The stock settings bias the car to understeer. Try even pressures or a 2-4lb bias front to rear, higher in front.

Yabo

Hmm. wouldn't you want higher in the rear than the front to induce oversteer? Maybe my mind's physics are tricking me.. but, Lower pressure would give you more traction.. wouldnt it? Wouldn tyou want the rears to be harder so they ahve less traction?

Skip

I would go down to 200# on the front if you really prefer oversteer.

Check this article for more on the 968 M030 rear sway bar: http://www.tech-session.com/kb/index...x_v2&id=90&c=4
Here is the brief summary of the 3-way adjustment:


Preload is a completely different topic, but you do want to be aware of it. I was surprised how much preload was on the my 19mm bar last time it was corner balanced. In most cases, you do not want any preload on the sway bar - it should be disconnected during corner balance. The problem with any sway bar and the factory mounts is that you cannot adjust out the preload. To do this you need adjustable drop links, like these:

pete944

I second the part about not going full stiff on the Koni's. You want to keep your tires in contact with the road. On a track you may have a completely smooth surface but in the real world with rough roads you want the shock to be able to dampen the bumps and keep the contact patch of the tire on the ground.

Geo

Actually you shouldn't use the dampers to do the work of the springs. The only time that is advisable is in a stock competition class where alternate springs and swaybars are not allowed.

Eyal 951

Serge, Careful with that oversteer. I've driven with you, and you drive fine for your current setup, and not bombing those roads all that hard. (you don;t really think that was fast do you?) but once you start messing with oversteer, you really need to know how to properly control a car. Learn your lines, weight transfer, etc. When you buy this setup, go to buttonwillow, and learn how to REALLY drive! Thats probably the best advice for you in this thread. oh, and when you go, let me know, I'll meet you there.
~Eyal

Serge944

I am aware that stiffer front springs will cause more understeer. However, im not simply adding to my current set up with a single rear bar, i want it fairly balanced as well. My goal is not to create a 911 out of my car.

Also, thanks for the diagram Skip. Looks like ill be buying a 19mm off you guys!

xsboost90

i would do 200's in the front and the mid or lowest setting on the rear mo30 , but thats just me.

N_Halbert

That's why I keep a copy of the chart in my wallet. It does seem counter intuitive. Stiffen the suspension on the opposite end to change handleing but give more pressure to the end that doesn't stick.

This works to a point, you need to keep the pressures within the working pressures of the tire.

It could be in that it stiffens the side walls, keeps the tire from rolling and flattens out the the tire patch. Again to a point. It does work well to tune handling at the track or autox.

xsboost90

that is exactly why i mark my tires on the first run... plus it looks way cool.