AC line replacement
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
AC line replacement
I've been working on my rather rough 84 project 944 off and on for a while. ( see here for what Im up against: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...c-project.html). I'll be updating this post in a while, but I feel like I've made some headway lately.
Anyways since the engine is out I've been stripping the engine bay and have just removed the two AC lines that go from the evaporator to the compressor and drier. These lines are hard and soft in in a couple places as they wind around the drivers side of the engine bay . I think they are part numbers 944 573 093 01 and 944 573 091 01. Some goggling shows them to be only available from the Porsche and of course $$$$. The other AC lines seem to be available for Griffith at a reasonable price. Im wondering what everyone else is doing for these two convoluted monsters. Anyone have them remade? Or made your own with the crimper tool etc? I've got them out and may take them to a hydraulic line place and see about having them remake the soft lines and keep the original hard lines. Any insight would be appreciated
Anyways since the engine is out I've been stripping the engine bay and have just removed the two AC lines that go from the evaporator to the compressor and drier. These lines are hard and soft in in a couple places as they wind around the drivers side of the engine bay . I think they are part numbers 944 573 093 01 and 944 573 091 01. Some goggling shows them to be only available from the Porsche and of course $$$$. The other AC lines seem to be available for Griffith at a reasonable price. Im wondering what everyone else is doing for these two convoluted monsters. Anyone have them remade? Or made your own with the crimper tool etc? I've got them out and may take them to a hydraulic line place and see about having them remake the soft lines and keep the original hard lines. Any insight would be appreciated
#3
Rennlist Member
Not for the AC, but I had Pirtek rework the high pressure power steering line and they did a great job. I've always been at a loss to easily find local hydraulic places but the Pirtek folks I dealt with were really helpful and enthusiastic about this little project. I spent some time looking at their catalog and they seem able to source most any kind of fitting so you'd have a good chance with them doing the work. I dunno, like I said, that kind of work has always been a challenge for me to find.
Good luck
Good luck
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Zircon, I've also had not much luck finding someone local here in Vancouver BC. I tried to get some PS hoses replicated a few years ago and was told due to liability issues a couple shops wouldn't touch them. Luckily they are simple hoses and I now know of a few places else where to have that work done. Being that these hoses are quite complicated in shape I worry they wouldn't come out right if I just dropped them off and had them redone. Would the length be right? What about having the fittings clocked wrong? Seems like a can of worms. These hoses were a pain to remove with the engine out, I'm not looking forward to replacing them.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm not sure about that. I can't imagine any shop being able to replicate all these bends accurately if they were making all new. I'll have to take them by a shop and see
#7
That's not what I meant. I mean they should be able to reuse the metal lines with all the bends, and just replace the rubber, provided the metal lines aren't leaking, which I doubt the metal section would.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Just pulling this out of my butt but I think the real problem with hydraulic hose is that it is relatively porous and will let the refrigerant molecules leak out pretty quickly. When the industry switched to R134 in the 90's, a lot of the retrofit kits had "barrier hoses" which I understand had a super duper liner that would stop the migration of the molecules through the rubber.
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Tiger03447 (01-29-2023)
#10
Rennlist Member
If you want to give it a shot, 928sRUs.com has recently begun rebuilding all kinds of these expensive, sometimes NLA, hose assemblies (though primarily for fuel, barrier hose would be within their capability). While they're primarily focused on the 928, you might want to reach out to Roger Tyson and see if he'd be willing to do this work. As a rule, that company is run by an enthusiast, and pretty helpful to the community, so I think you'd have more than half a chance.
Good luck
Good luck
The following users liked this post:
Tiger03447 (01-29-2023)
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just pulling this out of my butt but I think the real problem with hydraulic hose is that it is relatively porous and will let the refrigerant molecules leak out pretty quickly. When the industry switched to R134 in the 90's, a lot of the retrofit kits had "barrier hoses" which I understand had a super duper liner that would stop the migration of the molecules through the rubber.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If you want to give it a shot, 928sRUs.com has recently begun rebuilding all kinds of these expensive, sometimes NLA, hose assemblies (though primarily for fuel, barrier hose would be within their capability). While they're primarily focused on the 928, you might want to reach out to Roger Tyson and see if he'd be willing to do this work. As a rule, that company is run by an enthusiast, and pretty helpful to the community, so I think you'd have more than half a chance.
Good luck
Good luck
#13
Most likely the steel is fine. Its the rubber that needs to be replaced. That being said theres a few different designs regarding the barbs and crimps. Sometimes barbs need to be brazed on and sometimes the collar is cut hose is cut then slide on new hose and crimp it . I can see the lack of A/C repair in Vancouver. I have built hoses myself but like I said sometimes brazing is involved so out to the repair center. I had my 2 comp hoses repaired this summer. It cost more than it used to but no problems. Link below and ya a long way from home.
https://carlisleautoair.com/
If you are willing to gamble grind one of the crimps off then cut the hose enough with a razor to get it to slide off the steel portion. If its barbed then find a supply outfit that will get you what you need and the tools to do it. . Ill say this they put on new small outer diameter hose to fit like it should.
Or find a box and send them out. It cost me around 180$ I think to build/repair the high and low coming off the Comp. Back when I was doing it probably 100 bucks. Ask around see what you come with but the steel that dictates what you do but it is doable and probably a lot less. Carlisle has been around for a while and they do good work. It was 100 degrees for about 60 days straight down here and mine worked fine. If you want to ship them to me Ill hand deliver then get them back to you. On you dime of course.
https://carlisleautoair.com/
If you are willing to gamble grind one of the crimps off then cut the hose enough with a razor to get it to slide off the steel portion. If its barbed then find a supply outfit that will get you what you need and the tools to do it. . Ill say this they put on new small outer diameter hose to fit like it should.
Or find a box and send them out. It cost me around 180$ I think to build/repair the high and low coming off the Comp. Back when I was doing it probably 100 bucks. Ask around see what you come with but the steel that dictates what you do but it is doable and probably a lot less. Carlisle has been around for a while and they do good work. It was 100 degrees for about 60 days straight down here and mine worked fine. If you want to ship them to me Ill hand deliver then get them back to you. On you dime of course.
#14
Rennlist Member
Earlier I was tempted to say something snarky about the need for AC in BC but having a son that lives in Seattle, I am well aware that things get pretty brutal heat wise up there, at times. Also a functional AC is vastly superior when trying to clear a fogged windshield.
#15
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Should be no problem for any hose shop to do, using correct AC type hose (they have it).
Around 2007 I did this repair with a twist.
I had JIC (steel AN) male fittings brazed onto the ends of the steel tube sections. Then had new AC hoses made with female JIC swivel fittings for the rubber sections.
The swivel fittings helped compensate for the natural curve of the hose and made install easier.
The idea was to make the hoses easily replaceable in the future since JIC fittings are universal.
This worked great for me until 2020 when I removed AC from the car due to an engine swap.
Around 2007 I did this repair with a twist.
I had JIC (steel AN) male fittings brazed onto the ends of the steel tube sections. Then had new AC hoses made with female JIC swivel fittings for the rubber sections.
The swivel fittings helped compensate for the natural curve of the hose and made install easier.
The idea was to make the hoses easily replaceable in the future since JIC fittings are universal.
This worked great for me until 2020 when I removed AC from the car due to an engine swap.