No Start Problem
#121
Rennlist Member
Ok i just checked injector pulse with the noid light, and I do in fact have pulse. Does that throw it up to an injector issue, because if so I will get in contact with Whitchunter and let them know. The injectors were fine before I sent them there.
If you want me to, I can do the container injector test that T&T suggested If you nee me to.
If you want me to, I can do the container injector test that T&T suggested If you nee me to.
The noid light draws about 0.2 amps. The low resistance coil(2.5 ohms) of the injector draws about 5 amps to open and needs about 2 amps to hold it open.
So the only way to test the electrical wiring from the DME to the fuel injector is to do the container test. If the resistance in the wiring due to corrosion at connectors, shorts in wiring, etc increases then the voltage at the pin because current is flowing why above the noid light drops the voltage at the pin so the lower voltage cannot open the injector.
it is simple electrical principles and I would not approach Witchunters until after the fuel injector load test with containers indicate the issue is with Witchunters
#122
Pro
Thread Starter
Hi Acantor, The noid test does not confirm that the fuel injectors are bad, so Whitchunter is not currently under question. The test with the noid only confirms that the DME is OK and that all the wiring from the DME to the fuel injector has no breaks.
The noid light draws about 0.2 amps. The low resistance coil(2.5 ohms) of the injector draws about 5 amps to open and needs about 2 amps to hold it open.
So the only way to test the electrical wiring from the DME to the fuel injector is to do the container test. If the resistance in the wiring due to corrosion at connectors, shorts in wiring, etc increases then the voltage at the pin because current is flowing why above the noid light drops the voltage at the pin so the lower voltage cannot open the injector.
it is simple electrical principles and I would not approach Witchunters until after the fuel injector load test with containers indicate the issue is with Witchunters
The noid light draws about 0.2 amps. The low resistance coil(2.5 ohms) of the injector draws about 5 amps to open and needs about 2 amps to hold it open.
So the only way to test the electrical wiring from the DME to the fuel injector is to do the container test. If the resistance in the wiring due to corrosion at connectors, shorts in wiring, etc increases then the voltage at the pin because current is flowing why above the noid light drops the voltage at the pin so the lower voltage cannot open the injector.
it is simple electrical principles and I would not approach Witchunters until after the fuel injector load test with containers indicate the issue is with Witchunters
#123
Racer
Another low-tech thing that can be done...
If you have a mechanic's stethoscope, you can "listen" to each injector and you'll hear clicks when you touch the end of the rod to each of the injectors. This is not a replacement for the container test but it can provide clues if some injectors are making a clicking noise and others are not. The one I have isn't electronic or fancy and can be had for under $20. Google "mechanic stethoscope"
If you have a mechanic's stethoscope, you can "listen" to each injector and you'll hear clicks when you touch the end of the rod to each of the injectors. This is not a replacement for the container test but it can provide clues if some injectors are making a clicking noise and others are not. The one I have isn't electronic or fancy and can be had for under $20. Google "mechanic stethoscope"
#124
Check your coolant temp sensor on the head. If it's bad or not connected your car won't run. Other issues I've seen like this involve a bad DME connection or an out of adjustment reference sensor - assuming you had these out for your rebuild?
If you really want to do meaningful diagnostic work then you need to buy an oscilloscope. I bought one of these PC based USB units for under $200. It will save you a lot of guesswork if you test your parts properly. The PicoScope software is easy to use, and you can also use the automotive version to show you how to conduct various automotive tests - although the full function is locked out for none pro auto versions.
If you really want to do meaningful diagnostic work then you need to buy an oscilloscope. I bought one of these PC based USB units for under $200. It will save you a lot of guesswork if you test your parts properly. The PicoScope software is easy to use, and you can also use the automotive version to show you how to conduct various automotive tests - although the full function is locked out for none pro auto versions.
#125
Pro
Thread Starter
I have never removed the reference sensor or coolant temp sensor.
#126
Rennlist Member
Hi Acantor, since the spraying starter fluid keeping the engine running, then OP on reference sensor and coolant temp sensor is just guessing. Using a stethoscope to hearing the injector click does not isolate the problem between high resistance wire or injector issue.
#127
Pro
Thread Starter
I just did the container test... nothing out of the ordinary that I can see. I had somone crank the car for 3sec then pause and then another 3 seconds. All injectors were firing and there are equal amounts of fuel in each cup. I am confused on what this means injectors seem to be fireing just fine, and the amount is very close throughout.
#128
Race Car
I just did the container test... nothing out of the ordinary that I can see. I had somone crank the car for 3sec then pause and then another 3 seconds. All injectors were firing and there are equal amounts of fuel in each cup. I am confused on what this means injectors seem to be fireing just fine, and the amount is very close throughout.
All starting fluid does is replacement fuel going into the cylinder.
And you have fuel going into the cylinder.
The only thing that can possibly be is that your "fuel" is not flammable under normal compression as if you have water or diesel in your tank.
I can't think of any other possibility.
#129
Pro
Thread Starter
I am not sure how it is possible for fuel to get into the cylinder and still not fire when it runs on starting fluid.
All starting fluid does is replacement fuel going into the cylinder.
And you have fuel going into the cylinder.
The only thing that can possibly be is that your "fuel" is not flammable under normal compression as if you have diesel in your tank.
I can't think of any other possibility.
All starting fluid does is replacement fuel going into the cylinder.
And you have fuel going into the cylinder.
The only thing that can possibly be is that your "fuel" is not flammable under normal compression as if you have diesel in your tank.
I can't think of any other possibility.
#130
Rennlist Member
Have you tried it with the vacuum line to the brake booster disconnected? That seems like one place that you could have a vacuum leak that wouldn't show up on the smoke test (at least not unless you ran it for long enough for the booster to fill up with smoke).
The fuel vent lines from the tank to the charcoal canister are another area that might not show up on a smoke test.
Might be worth clamping the two spots shown in fuchsia on this:
The fuel vent lines from the tank to the charcoal canister are another area that might not show up on a smoke test.
Might be worth clamping the two spots shown in fuchsia on this:
#131
Racer
Lol yeah I am stumped as well. Could it be possible that the amount of fuel for all cylinders is lower than it should be? If it will be smart, I can make a sad trip to the gas station and empty my bank account for some new gas. I have not changed the gas in it since I bought it around 7-8 months ago.
#132
Race Car
Unless somehow a gallon of water got poured down the tank or something like this.
Believe it or not, this happened to me. I bought a Honda CBR1000RR at the auction that I could not start. Eventually I found more than a gallon of water in the tank when the motorcycle was supposedly impounded while the rider was riding without a MC license. I am guessing someone at the auction wanted it and sabotaged it.
I can't imagine how a car can run on starting fluid and not gas from injectors.
Believe it or not, this happened to me. I bought a Honda CBR1000RR at the auction that I could not start. Eventually I found more than a gallon of water in the tank when the motorcycle was supposedly impounded while the rider was riding without a MC license. I am guessing someone at the auction wanted it and sabotaged it.
I can't imagine how a car can run on starting fluid and not gas from injectors.
Last edited by Legoland951; 04-29-2022 at 07:58 PM.
#133
Three Wheelin'
I am not sure how it is possible for fuel to get into the cylinder and still not fire when it runs on starting fluid.
All starting fluid does is replacement fuel going into the cylinder.
And you have fuel going into the cylinder.
The only thing that can possibly be is that your "fuel" is not flammable under normal compression as if you have water or diesel in your tank.
I can't think of any other possibility.
All starting fluid does is replacement fuel going into the cylinder.
And you have fuel going into the cylinder.
The only thing that can possibly be is that your "fuel" is not flammable under normal compression as if you have water or diesel in your tank.
I can't think of any other possibility.
if the fuel is in question put it into a spray bottle and toss it into the intake.. if it starts that way you have your answer….
#134
Rennlist Member
if the fuel is in question put it into a spray bottle and toss it into the intake.. if it starts that way you have your answer….
#135
Race Car
The other possibility is simply moving the harness allowed the injectors to fire.. when they are in there “ normal” position they are shorted…
if the fuel is in question put it into a spray bottle and toss it into the intake.. if it starts that way you have your answer….
if the fuel is in question put it into a spray bottle and toss it into the intake.. if it starts that way you have your answer….