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Measure the resistance of the sensor with the engine cold. There still may be an issue that unplugging it is masking. If it is shorted, replace it. If not, there is still something else wrong.
You might have wiggled something else unplugging it that actually is the problem. BTW, the meter you are using has absolutely crap leads that fail open at times (I've personally experienced this, twice.) Double check that you get continuity by shorting them before measuring resistance.
You might have wiggled something else unplugging it that actually is the problem. BTW, the meter you are using has absolutely crap leads that fail open at times (I've personally experienced this, twice.) Double check that you get continuity by shorting them before measuring resistance.
I touched them together and they still work and everything. I know the meter makes no sense logically, but I am 90% sure that it is the sensor.
Nvm @orig944 I dug up the nice one that I have, and it read 1ohm. Im assuming that that confirms it if I'm not mistaken. The lower the resistance the leaner the mixture correct? that's why it runs when it is unplugged with high resistance since the circuit is not complete.
Yep, low resistance leans the mixture. Bingo! Running rich might not be good for the catalytic converter, so replace the sensor before driving it. Your other probes are likely intermittent, sometimes making contact, other times not, depending on how the wires are flexed.
Yep, low resistance leans the mixture. Bingo! Running rich might not be good for the catalytic converter, so replace the sensor before driving it. Your other probes are likely intermittent, sometimes making contact, other times not, depending on how the wires are flexed.
HAHAHA you think I have cats! I bought it straight piped and with aftermarket headers, but it still sounds like a lawn mower lol.
I really appreciate all the help guys I could not have diagnosed this issue without you! I will make another update to this thread once I get the new one installed and hopefully running properly.
You might have wiggled something else unplugging it that actually is the problem. .
Hi Acantor,
All that is known is the DME temp sensor tested open circuit after removing the blue plug and the engine started and ran at idle.
What is not known is the DME temp sensor resistance prior to removing the fuel rail to do the injector flow test. What is known is spraying starter fluid into the J boot started the engine.
1. To start the engine, the DME temp sensor has to be greater than 1.5K to 3.0K ohms, open circuit is greater than required, so engine should have started w/o starter fluid if the injectors were pulsing. If the DME temp sensor condition was the same as tested, assumption is the fuel injectors were not pulsing.
2. Removing the fuel rail from the intake manifold and doing the flow test indicated the fuel injectors were pulsing. If statement #1 is true, then removing the fuel rail wiggled the wiring to eliminate a high resistance condition that made the injectors not be able to pulse
3. If the DME temp sensor was shorted, then the engine would not start and spraying starter fluid in J boot would start the engine with the extra fuel not provided by the increased pulsing initiated from the DME.
Based on my experience, the situation is not permanently fixed. Please provide a photo of the 9 pin connector and a description of what wire was fixed ( in particular the thick red/blue wire)
Tom
Hi Acantor,
All that is known is the DME temp sensor tested open circuit after removing the blue plug and the engine started and ran at idle.
What is not known is the DME temp sensor resistance prior to removing the fuel rail to do the injector flow test. What is known is spraying starter fluid into the J boot started the engine.
1. To start the engine, the DME temp sensor has to be greater than 1.5K to 3.0K ohms, open circuit is greater than required, so engine should have started w/o starter fluid if the injectors were pulsing. If the DME temp sensor condition was the same as tested, assumption is the fuel injectors were not pulsing.
2. Removing the fuel rail from the intake manifold and doing the flow test indicated the fuel injectors were pulsing. If statement #1 is true, then removing the fuel rail wiggled the wiring to eliminate a high resistance condition that made the injectors not be able to pulse
3. If the DME temp sensor was shorted, then the engine would not start and spraying starter fluid in J boot would start the engine with the extra fuel not provided by the increased pulsing initiated from the DME.
Based on my experience, the situation is not permanently fixed. Please provide a photo of the 9 pin connector and a description of what wire was fixed ( in particular the thick red/blue wire)
Tom
I am guessing you are talking about the one by the brake booster. I will send a picture tomorrow morning when am free.
05-01-2022, 02:05 PM
