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So what does that mean if the last owner cut the wire. For the car to even be able to fire, the wire had to have been just replaced right? Maybe he ran it directly from the ecu to the injectors? Idk why anyone would do this unless it was for some sort of purpose.
Acantor,
It is difficult to make up a new wiring harness and install it in the car unless you are converting the car to a race car, removing the dash and the windshield. There can be screwup in the new wiring. The safest repair is to cut/splice the bad wire(s) and retest. Making wire connection changes at the DME female plug takes the right crimper tool, right connectors, and patience. These 944's take perseverance.
I belie
Do you have a digital volt ohm meter? It is a handy instrument to diagnosis electrical problems.
Pelican Parts has electrical schematics to.help diagnosis electrical wiring issues.
if you turn the ignition key to run position, using a volt meter
You can test the voltage at the fuel injector electrical connector. I believe one pin reads 12.5v and the other pin reads 10.6v to ground. You can also , + probe inserted in the red cut wire and the - probe to a good ground, the reading should be 12.5v If it reads 0, then he cut the wire on the right side of the plug and spliced in a new wire to bypass the bad connection.
To trace the +12v supply to the injectors, carefully unfold the wiring harness wrapping starting at the plug moving towards the fuel injection rail. See if a wire is spliced To the red/blue wire or spliced to the individual FI wire on the other side of the plug, To find the splice, carefully unfold the harness from the plug towards the driver side A pillar. Repeat the test to see if there is 12v at the splice.
I just watched your video New Project Car 944 Walkaround. Which raises many questions. You state that it ran with a very high idle. And that it has a 944 turbo inlet manifold. At least at the point that the video was shot, it has a very non stock straight hose between the AFM and the throttle body. In this configuration, it would appear that all the stock idle components must be removed. I don't reallly know where to begin but that is one hacked up engine compartment
I just watched your video New Project Car 944 Walkaround. Which raises many questions. You state that it ran with a very high idle. And that it has a 944 turbo inlet manifold. At least at the point that the video was shot, it has a very non stock straight hose between the AFM and the throttle body. In this configuration, it would appear that all the stock idle components must be removed. I don't reallly know where to begin but that is one hacked up engine compartment
yes, since then I have replaced all the pieces that are not supposed to be there with the correct ones (see the fourth head gasket video if you want to see those parts being installed). Everything that I have done to the car should have helped it immensely, which makes it even more confusing why it is not starting. The fact that it was running in its previous state was nothing short of a miracle, the old distributor rotor was broken in half with the contact tip missing, but it still ran.
OK, I did a fast forward through that video. I am very releaved to see that you have restored things to a stock condition!
My plan from above is auto mechanics 101, which is to determine if your problem is spark or fuel, with the assumption that compression is OK. Try the things I mentioned and you should be able to narrow the problem down a bit.
Ok sorry for the delay, I replaced the regulator fuel and pressure dropped to 34 psi....but she still doesn't want to keep running. I checked all the spark plugs after cranking the engine over a few times and they all look normal and dry (pictures attached). Let me know what I should try next Cylinder 4 Cylinder 3 Cylinder 2 Cylinder 1 34psi
All plugs are brand new ngk and I gapped them to the smallest gap on the interval. They had a faint smell of fuel when I took them out aswell, so I am pretty sure it is not a fueling issue.
All plugs are brand new ngk and I gapped them to the smallest gap on the interval. They had a faint smell of fuel when I took them out aswell, so I am pretty sure it is not a fueling issue.
Acantor,
Making progress but conclusively not sure why still stalling.
Is it ECU, Speed Sensor, Fuel Injection System?
Diagnose Test #1. On previous POST, suggested separating the J boot from outlet of AFM. Read what to do. If the engine runs following that procedure, then the problem area is the fuel injectors or wiring to and fuel injector harness.
Diagnostic test #2. Remove the fuel rail with injectors from intake manifold. Place each injector in a clear container all of equal size. Crank the engine for several seconds. Determine the amount of fuel in each container, all the same, none, some more than others. If some more than others, switch the inectors with less with more. Repeat cranking the engine. If more are now less, then there an electrical supply or ground issue in the harness. If more and less are the same as before, then the fuel injectors should be cleaned and tested. SouthBay Fuel Injector Service is great.
If Diagnostic test #1 shows the engine does not continuously run and Diagnostic test #2 determines that all the injector flowrates (volume) are equal, then pull the speed sensor. There could be metal chips on the tip affecting the air gap or the speed sensor is failing. Clarks Garage has a test procedure. Purchase only Bosch if required.
Acantor, so fuel injectors are OK. Fuel Injector harness and 12v supply or speed sensor.
Ok so I just tested the injector harness. I used the batteries ground and tested each pin like you said. All of them read about 10.33v on one and 12.21v on the other. How would I go about checking the speed sensor. Where is that located?
04-13-2022, 12:32 PM
