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I am thinking that I should cut and solder pin 16 because I don't have any other pins and I don't have any other way to remove and reuse the old one. If I go back to just before where the wire exits the connector area, I should be able to run it out of the harness where the altitude sensor is. From there (since I have no cruise control) I will go out the cruise control wire grommet and run it to point B. This is my plan for now unless I find a better place to run it through the firewall.
Let me know what you guys think.
Does anyone know what gauge wire pin 16 is?
15 GA wire is the closet, so it would be 14 GA because 15 GA is not readily available
From what I understand, pin 16, 17, and 19 start off separate and then they join together, but I like the idea of not having to cut any wires. My question is, will it take the low resistance reading that I want or will it take the higher one. I'm pretty sure that there is an electronic rule for this (path of least resistance) but I am not sure. Besides not having to cut wires, what are the other benefits of this?
The parallel resistance will always be as low or lower than the lowest resistance path.
The parallel resistance will always be as low or lower than the lowest resistance path.
Alright. I will try to pick up some better wire today because all I have is indoor wire for speakers and stuff. I know you said 14@T&T Racing but it looks like 10 or 12 to me I could be wrong though I am not the best at naming wire sizes. It will be a little harder to solder but I'm sure I can find a way to separate the wires from each other.
I got the ground handled today and I also moved all of the grounds back to their original locations (pin 5 back to the block). I ran the new wire through the engine harness grommet and I connected it to where It would have run, spot "B". I took pictures of every step I took, and when I had all the grounds off, I cleaned the contacts thoroughly. stripped before soldering after soldering taped and ran through dust guard connector put back together all grounds where they should be pin 16 resistance reading
Good news everyone! She runs beautifully. I got the new ECU in the mail and installed it today. I ran it for about 15 min at 2k rpm to break in the cam before it overheated and purged some coolant out of the overflow tube, but that is just due to a lack of bleeding in the coolant system I believe. The radiator fans did not kick on which is odd but there is some questionable wiring running to them from the battery. I let it cool down and then did the last 5 minutes. I really appreciate everybody who has helped me figure this mess out, I couldn't do it without you guys!! That being said, I am happy to announce the death of this excessively long thread! I still have some wiring issues that need to be sorted out, but that will not be in this thread.
That is fantastic news! To put your journey in perspective, I bet you learned a lot more about the 944 engine compartment than you would have if the thing had just fired up. I am sure us old guys have gained some satisfaction from helping you out.
Hopefully the cooling system will work itself out. If you are interested, here is my article that explains what is going on in the area of the thermostat. Not exactly intuitive. Otherwise, with the bleed screw on the top of the ell fitting for the upper radiator hose, bleeding is pretty simple. https://newhillgarage.com/2018/02/04...tem-explained/
When you put together a driving video, send us a link.
05-20-2022, 08:42 AM
