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All good points. I did some calling around today in the local area and found out that no one is able to work on an alusil block, perhaps they don't want to touch it. The added cost of shipping somewhere else and then retrieving it will come into play. As you mentioned (I was unaware), the oil cooler should also be replaced. Thanks.
the tooling for a machine shop is the issue.. cost about $800usd for the parts from sunnen.. i purchased it and convinced my friend who has a machine shop to do the hone i have had great results. I get the 100.5 mm wossners ( 1st factory oversize) and molinar rods.. make sure whatever block you do to put the windage ports under the main bosses.. you only need 2 between cyl 1 and 2 And between 3 and 4 to allow the air behind the pistons to exchange between the adjacent cyls and not travel through the oil and froth it. Porsche put them down the entire block but i believe it was just easier for them to drill straight through the block. Further details are on Lindsey's site ( as well as pics).
I did get quoted quite the range of numbers to sleeve yesterday. Anywhere from $800-$1000 plus $50 each for the sleeves. Another fellow quoted $3000 but he didn't want to touch the block do to issues in the past when machining alusil --- said it was eating up his cutter heads. Seems many are afraid to machine because the cylinders are unsupported at the top end. I will check the LR site again to check out what you are referring to above... I vaguely recall.
I did get quoted quite the range of numbers to sleeve yesterday. Anywhere from $800-$1000 plus $50 each for the sleeves. Another fellow quoted $3000 but he didn't want to touch the block do to issues in the past when machining alusil --- said it was eating up his cutter heads. Seems many are afraid to machine because the cylinders are unsupported at the top end. I will check the LR site again to check out what you are referring to above... I vaguely recall.
Some install a cylinder blocking plate at the top of the block to secure the indexing of each cylinder wall.
Yup and in the bottom of the block there is a soft plug for an oil galley.. i just use an npt tap and install an allen plug. The other soft plugs i get from lindsey. Oh.. and get a good gun cleaning brush kit to run the entire length of the oil galleys.
Just to clarify what @GPA951s is talking about, there is a vertical oil passageway that among other things serves as the intersecting bore where the OPRV inserts. Being the "bottom of a well" so to speak, it could theoretically fill up with debris. I missed it on my last rebuild. I don't know if the girdle hides it but you definately have to look upward at the bottom of the block to see and access it easily.
I will have a look at ebay. I am concerned that what is shown might not be in great condition, leaving me in the same position as now. Still exploring and pricing out the best options as there is definitely no rush to have this back on the road any time soon. I will investigate further but at this point... the crankshaft is toast, and the #2 rod is also toast. This whole thing will be a learning experience.
You can always have your block bored oversized and fit new pistons and rings. The shop you choose would have to be familiar with working with these particular engines, however, as a special paste is required when honing to final fit. Oversized pistons & rings can be had for about $800USD. If you can I'd send the block to Lindsey Racing. They have a good price on the piston sets, plus they machine these blocks all the time.
12-09-2021, 08:39 PM
