1987 951
Long story short I have removed the engine from my car and completely dismantled it. Pictures attached of 1. Spun rod bearing and 2. Scoring of cylinders 1 and 2. What are my options?
I will assume the crank shaft is shot and of course the associated connecting rod (no photo). Crank shafts seem easy enough to come by, but what are my options? I also have concerns with the cylinders. 3 and 4 are ok, but 1 and 2 have scratched almost the full length of the travel and big enough for my nail to catch on (ignore the numbers in the photo). Is the block trash at this point? To hone and find over sized pistons seems like an expensive endeavor. I could dry sleeve but am not sure of the cost for this. Anyhow, just looking for options at this point?

 

Condolences!!!
Could you describe the circumstances that led to this carnage?

 

I think you will find that a replacement block will be your best way forward, $$ wise, however I'd bet there are valid counterpoints...
It seems every time this comes up there are people saying, hone it, sleeve it, Alusil this and that.
If a replacement block is available for under $400 I'd say it's a no brainer.

Same scenario, LOTS of opinions here : https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...der-walls.html

 

The Short - Oil Starvation.
However, I had checked the oil level about 400km of driving prior and the level was more than half way up the min/max marks. Funny thing is the day I left garage I had a gut feeling telling me to check the oil, but ignored it... drove about 10 min down the road, everything was normal, oil pressure was normal. To me there was not a large amount of driving between checks so I didn't see it coming. I was stopped at a light at the top of a hill, as soon as I let the clutch out the engine stopped and that was it... completely seized. Checked the oil once I was able to push it to the side and it showed about 1/8" at the end of the dip stick (I would say that equates to about 2litres of oil lost in 400km of driving). I did not have blue smoke on startup, ever, I completely resealed the engine at 115,000km and it now has 120,000km - no leaks from any seal. Leads me to believe the scoring was there prior and caused the oil loss --- much more than I ever anticipated, unfortunately. Car had 90,000km on it when I bought it in 2008.

 

That is very interesting. Even at a quart or even 2 low, there will still be plenty of oil over the pickup tube. I guess you never got a low oil pressure indicator light? I'm interested in the forensics in association with my 944 Oiling System article. I do agree that the cylinder scoring probably preceeded the bearing failure.

I would agree the most cost effective way is to source a used engine. But surely they are getting more scarce as time goes by. You've obviously torn down the engine. From a forensics standpoint, I would check the oil pickup tube for a major failure. Also the oil pump, although failure of those is very rare. I assume you did not find the bolt at the crank snout significantly loose? Any sign of a headgasket failure? Any sign of water in the oil? Just asking based on the recent news but did you drive through any flooded streets? Dodging salmon as you went

 

Oil pressure was 5bar while driving and of course less at idle, 2-3bar (if my memory serves me correct). I drained about 2+ liters of oil plus more in all the hoses etc. The bearing bits were all concentrated at the oil pickup tube/screen which leads me to believe the flow was ok. Nothing was loose when dismantling. No head gasket failure and no water in the oil.
Definitely finding it hard to source a good block... plus you never really know what you are getting. Ones I do see are $2000 plus for a short block... unless anyone has any leads?
Fortunately, no flooded streets in my neck of the woods, but options have been quite limited for any route out of the lower mainland... a break from the rain would be nice!

 

Agree with harveyf. Oil showing on the dipstick at all should have plenty for lubrication. A defective oil pressure sensor can "peg" at 5. A working one will vary with RPM's and operating conditions. So if your gauge always went to 5 and stayed there, that is a problem as well. Having aid that, a good used block will cure these evils, and they are plentiful.

 

The oil pressure sender varied from about 2-3 bar at idle to 5 bar when driving.

Strange that this happened considering that you are saying that there was plenty of oil regardless of it being low.

What sources are you using to find a good used block? Having said that, I am open to any leads or suggestions of someone selling a good used block.

 

I suggest you check eBay for an engine block. Also, you might try posting a WTB here in the Marketplace. Lots of 2.5L blocks out there. I agree with the others about finding a good condition 2.5L block relatively cheap. Same for the crankshaft. You may also need pistons (maybe) and they are also fairly common and cheap if your going to replace with used stock pistons. There are some aftermarket options in stock size and clearance if you search. You should be able to re-use the rods, but aftermarket rods are also available.

I also agree with other above about needing to determine the cause of the oil and/or pressure loss. It would be terrible to replace/rebuild the engine only to have this happen again. You should have found more than 2 liters of oil in the pan when you drained the oil.

 

I will have a look at ebay. I am concerned that what is shown might not be in great condition, leaving me in the same position as now. Still exploring and pricing out the best options as there is definitely no rush to have this back on the road any time soon. I will investigate further but at this point... the crankshaft is toast, and the #2 rod is also toast. This whole thing will be a learning experience.

 

Did you try 944Barn in Blairsville Ga?

 

I have not, thanks for the info. I will check it out.

 

That damage definitely doesn't warrant replacing the block.
No affiliation but Lindsey has +1mm pistons with rings for $800
Bore and hone your own block wouldn't be $400, so why buy a used block for $400 that you'd likely have to hone anyway.

Not to mention, you'll need pistons anyway.

I've got a straight, knifed, balanced crank, never installed for $500 if interested.
Even have a set of coated rod stock, standard rod bearings I'll throw in.

 

Oil Starvation makes sense if you really only got 2-2.5 liters out of it like you said. That puts the engine around 3.5-4 liters low on oil since the capacity is 6 quarts. You mentioned there was an 1/8" on the dipstick, I wonder if that could have come from the dipstick tube or otherwise got on there by being splashed on to the dipstick. The max - min levels are 1 liter apart on the dipstick, so in this case I don't think the dipstick was reading properly for whatever reason. Best of luck with the rebuild or resleeving efforts!

 

Definitely interested in the crankshaft plus bearings but need a bit more time to see check the cost of other options. Good point with regard to the risks in a second block. I was thinking the same thing, I might end up spending money on a block that is just as bad. If LR has a set of pistons with rings for $800 that is reasonable considering like you said, the pistons would need replacing. It all comes down to the cost of honing the existing block. Is there a reputable shop in Canada that can do? I did call one local shop today who sends all the blocks to LR.