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Update on the safari build:
- Received the connector but still blowing lamps; been cleaning grounds and tracing wires. I'll find the culprit soon enough,
- Replaced both clutch master and slave cylinders and flushed entire system (again),
- Installed rear-mount LED cubes,
- Installed 30" roof light bar (this thing puts out over 11K Lumens,
- Replaced both H3 fog lamps with LED's that will switch from super white to yellow with every on/off switch cycle (really neat),
- I found a nice, 6 position switch box that will handle 15-20A for each switch. I'm carefully calculating all additional loads into the box; so far, so good (3A - cubes and 7.8A for the light bar),
- Replaced the entire rear hatch assembly with a nice spare I had in the shed. Interesting tip I discovered: When lining up the hatch pins to their respective inserts, simply loosen the four Allen bolts that secure the hatch hinge (in the cabin) and the hatch will pop/shift into alignment, then re-tighten the bolts and you should be good to go! BTW: The original rear hatch is ok (no damaged glass and little to no frame separation) and is available for free if someone wants it. Just come and take it before it goes to the dump.
Dear Pfarah7: Presume when you changed out the voltage regulator/diode pack that the brushes were changed out at the same time? Still getting low (if any?) voltage from the alternator at all? If you changed out the brushes and the voltage regulator and it's still a no-go..time for a new or rebuilt alternator. Swap the new for the old and keep the new brushes/diode pack for the shelf before you send in the core alternator.
So I actually ordered a late model alternator (115A vs 90A), realizing that the pulley has additional rib - I've been informed that all I have to do is properly line up the belt to the appropriate ribs and it should be fine. Let's see...
I have discovered that upgrading to an 115A alternator is not just plug-n-play on these early models. Here is what had to be done (thus far) to accommodate the new Bosch AL170X alternator:
1. The alternator/AC compressor bracket that mounts to the engine block required modification. The new alternator hole tabs would not line up with the bracket so some grinding was needed.
2. The original alternator and bracket uses 8mm x 1.25 pitch bolts while the AL170X accommodates 10mm x 1.5 pitch bolts, so new hardware was sourced. Also, both alternator tabs (on bracket) needed to be enlarged to fit the 10mm hardware.
3. I also swapped pulleys as the original (4 rib) coincided with the rest of the belt accessory/crank pulley arrangement and the new unit came with a 5 rib pulley. After discussing this with a couple mechanic friends of mine (very well qualified individuals), the decision to install the original pulley made sense as the belt wears better when shouldered against both side lips. Swapping the pulleys wasn't too bad; my impact gun made light work of that situation. I did keep the same distance during installment (measured 28.08 - 28.40mm between two opposite ends to the alternator fan). It appeared that there was a slight shaft wobble due to this measurement discrepancy - or was it just my eyes..
The plan is to complete installation tomorrow, as long as the rains hold up (my 84 just has just been detailed and she has demanded to stay dry; who am I to argue?)...
Interesting find when I removed the original bracket; it seems someone wanted to live in a better neighborhood and built their condo in P-Ville... Fortunately nobody was home when I came-a-knocking.
New bracket in:
The new alternator fit in perfectly!
Now that's done, back to the bloody turn signal issue... Thanks for watching!
I have had troubles with turn signals and bulbs burning out and summed it up to the late model oem lighting harness.
Because harness connectors look the same & can fit every male terminal on either the fog lights or the "wing lamps".
And the other possibility is wrong lamps that fit, or just crappy & old, so LR send me a full replacement kit for cheap.
I can't recall the issue you are having.