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Would make sense for a track car only but just having gone through a nearly complete redesign & resto-mods of a 944 this will be nothing for the faint hearted or weak walleted!
How about the weak minded? I know it does seem a bit of a crazy project. But just consider a non running complete car compared to this basket case, at least this car has all the new parts going for it. I have recently recommissioned a 1977 BMW 530i that had sat for 27 years also. Aside from the interior ( which is in similar shape to a 10 year old car as that was when it was removed) I think this car will require about the same work. The gas tank is looking about the same LOL. Still you are correct its probably not going to be the easiest or cheapest car to redo. As of right now I have in mind completely stock. But....... I did just find this: http://www.motorwerksracing.com/pors...rsion-18t-swap. I've never considered this.
It does look interesting and those numbers look very tempting but I think I'll have my hands full just putting this car back to stock, Don't think I'm really for the an engine swap yet. Maybe someday. I will continue to look at the 1.8t swaps online though.
"have my hands full just putting this car back to stock"
I agree, too many unknowns, too much uncertainties going with the MWR motor.
About twenty years ago, I swapped in a 968 motor. Bit more than a simple stock motor swap but should be a piece of cake compared with what else you have to do. Going from 150 to 236 hp really does make a noticeable difference. IMO, that's the motor the 944 should have had from day one. Could be the only motor swap that actually might add resale value.
Now thats an interesting swap. I really do like the S2 or the 968, thats the car I really want , just too cheap to spring for one. You still have that car? And yeah resale value, with this 944 I'm kind of thinking way down the line if I do everything right and don't cheap out and stay away from the aftermarket mods I could end up with a very nice correct oem car that someone will pay a little more for than a engine swapped car. IDK. After reading JRP944's slow build thread I would love to do similar to this cars engine. Of course I've never done any engine rebuilding before so we'll see were I actually get to .
OK, after I first bought this project a lot of other things have been happening. Mainly all the covid BS. I bought a small boat ,and a dog. Also had lots of break downs and issues with my other cars. ( all BMWS, sacrilege I know. ). I finally rolled the 944 into the garage , and onto the lift I didn't have when I got the car . Pretty exciting day.
A few pics of the underside of this POS. Lots of rusty suspension parts but the underside had been undercoated which may have helped save it from rusting. The undercoat is peeling and flaking in a lot of places but unless it all comes off I'll just recoat it I guess. Not a big fan of black undercoating cars, to me it looks like you're trying to hide poor repairs and rust. We'll see. Looking at these pics now I'm horrified , It really is just surface rust, but a lot of it
First thing I wanted to do was remove the transaxle so I could get to the gas tank and see if it may be saveable. I did get a spare from maint but its got enough rust inside that I'm hoping this one may have less. Although its got a lot of crap and gunked up old gas maybe its cleanable? Not sure
I've removed the rear muffler, axles and started to take apart the TT/ transaxle connector and ran into a problem. The PO had the timing belt/WP partially done. So no belts installed and a flywheel lock in the starters hole. I undid the first bolt on the connector and when I went to push in the clutch to spin the TT around the clutch is inop and the pedal just goes to the floor. Looks like all the fluid has drained out of the reservoir, probably the whole brakes system is empty. So I can't spin the TT around to undo that second bolt. Maybe today I'll try filling up the res and bleeding the clutch so I can release the clutch disk. I have a feeling its going to end with fluid leaking everywhere. LOL
I've also found at least 8 more mud wasp nests in various hiding spots, no more mice More ugliness to come......
Last edited by maybeillbuyit; 12-13-2021 at 02:26 AM.
Cool project! Just visualize how all those rusty parts will look after they’re reconditioned/replaced. Nice E28, BTW!
Yeah thx, Thats actually what I see in my head when I look at all the rust, its all magically transformed into nice shiny parts. I just got a line on a good reasonable powder coater from a friend as well. Thx for the BMW compliment. That car was also resurrected after sitting for 28 years. Its the e28s predecessor , e12. 1977 530i
OK so more work on the TT connector problem today. I found what looks like a brand new clutch master installed but no hose connected from the res. just a plastic cap covering the feed line in the master. Despite it being new 28 years ago I'm sure its toast and I'll be replacing it. Since the clutch system wasn't even hooked up I looked at the clutch slave area on the bell housing and realized I could pry on the throw out bearing release fork. I did that but even with pressure released on the clutch disk, I still couldn't get the TT to rotate. I guess the disk is rusted and seized to the pressure plate? Not sure. I wasn't sure what to do to gain access to the rear bolt on that connector, which is pointing straight up. Then I dreamed up this hack:
L shaped allen key, with an offset box wrench and some socket extensions as leverage to twist the allen key. It worked first try to pop that allen bolt loose. I was surprised and happy to figure that out. Maybe something like this is old hat for you guys who've been working on these transaxle cars for years but for me this is all new.
I undid the bolt that holds the shift rod linkage together. It was drilled and safety wired. Mmmm that can't be factory?
Next will be dropping the transaxle.
Last edited by maybeillbuyit; 12-17-2021 at 11:50 AM.
That shift rod bolt is safety wired from the factory. Another fyi for you, those 2 bolts on the drive shaft connector must be removed (not just loosened) in order to slide the connector off.
That shift rod bolt is safety wired from the factory. Another fyi for you, those 2 bolts on the drive shaft connector must be removed (not just loosened) in order to slide the connector off.
OK very interesting. Thx for the reply. I realized later I did see in a few videos that bolt was safety wired. I did know about the need to remove the bolts , and I did that. The connector slid back easily enough. I appreciate the comments and feedback
Last edited by maybeillbuyit; 12-18-2021 at 12:16 PM.
A little more progress today before I had to cook dinner for some friends coming over for a pre Christmas dinner tonight. I used a metal cart with my car jack on top with a wood transmission cradle I built for my BMWS to hold the transaxle. Its ratchet strapped to the cradle. The plywood stacked is all bolted together with threaded rod.
Last edited by maybeillbuyit; 12-18-2021 at 12:22 PM.
02-14-2021 | 01:19 PM
I know it does seem a bit of a crazy project. But just consider a non running complete car compared to this basket case, at least this car has all the new parts going for it. I have recently recommissioned a 1977 BMW 530i that had sat for 27 years also. Aside from the interior ( which is in similar shape to a 10 year old car as that was when it was removed) I think this car will require about the same work. The gas tank is looking about the same LOL. Still you are correct its probably not going to be the easiest or cheapest car to redo. As of right now I have in mind completely stock. But....... I did just find this: http://www.motorwerksracing.com/pors...rsion-18t-swap. I've never considered this.
