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I notice the fork moves sideways on its bearings quite a bit; the TOB appears to be lifted on an angle; the bottom (right) fork arm at rest sits higher than the top (left) arm at rest
In the TOP (RIGHT) video, look closely and you can see the movement of the retaining ring bottom of TOB
If anyone can confirm that something is wrong and clearly needs attention, say the word and dismatleing I will go
Is it possible that Fork arms bend? Or, is this amount of lateral movement and arm offset normal? Are the PP fingers moving enough to release the clutch? Seems they might be on the bottom (right) side but not the top (left) side
Last edited by Dan Martinic; 01-09-2020 at 10:41 PM.
Reason: Better picture & grammar
That doesn’t look right. Somethings wrong with your clutch fork. Like it’s not holding onto the throw out bearing and just sliding off on one side. Is it the right throw out bearing for the fork used? 944 and 951 are different. That looks like a 944 throw out bearing and a 951 fork combo. But that’s just a guess. However it still doesn’t look right and probably has to be taken apart regardless to figure out the issue.
At rest, it looks to me like the fork arms are not in line with the TOB; the bottom fork arm seems to grab the TOB properly and lift it while the top fork arm lags behind
The fork shaft couldn't be crooked, could it? I agree though: looks like I'll find out after dissaembly
Clearly the Clutch fork is Broke OR the actual Bellhousing.. OR the needle bearings Came out of the Clutch Fork... Either way.... Your path is clear Grasshopper...
Now that I look at the Vid Closer.. looks like the TO bearing is lifting off the PP fingers on one side... Will be interesting to see what you find..
Regarding those other posts, with the "thimble" on the end of Slave...there is no reason for it other than to mask a larger problem, I suspect that individual has the same sort of issue but created a band-aid instead of getting to the root of the issue as you have clearly demonstrated in that Video..
If you need a replacement clutch fork, I have two of them. I bought one used from DC Automotive before I went in when I had he retaining ring issue and then I figured out the previous owner also gave me one.
If you want, I can ship one to you, if you don't use it you can return it to me. I know they aren't cheap, but would give it to you for the best price you can find. I can't remember what I paid.....was it $325? Maybe less, but I remember it was a lot of money for what it was.
Now that I look at the Vid Closer.. looks like the TO bearing is lifting off the PP fingers on one side
And in the second video, the bottom of the TOB--under the fingers, seen between the fingers--looks like it's coming off PP as the other side gets pushed up. Interesting will be it, yes
If you need a replacement clutch fork, I have two of them
Good to know, thanks Paul. Since I spent some $ getting mine refurbed, I'd like to see what I'm up against before buying anything. If the weather holds (I am basically working outdoors with minmum coverage), I should have info in a couple weeks.
My new goal is back on the road for spring. Let the challenge begin!
I'm bummed for you on the disassembly front but those videos confirm that there's some goofiness going on in there. From when I was looking into clutch forks, to try to prepare against the warnings in the DIYs that I read about clutch disassembly, I'm pretty sure that the clutch forks are forged parts. What that means to me is that it would take a LOT to mess that thing up. From the description of the clutch fork upgrade, however, apparently the clutch forks are notorious for breaking and whatnot, so what do I know. Anyway, I think you'd have noticed a weld booger or the like on a refurbished fork.
Anyway, here's what I see on the new videos. On the left side, there is a lot more movement of the TO bearing itself in the pressure plate. You don't see that movement of the TO bearing relative to the pressure plate in the video of the right side. I don't know if that's induced by a problem with the fork itself but you'll find that out when you take things apart. My money, were we gambling about this, would be on the TO Bearing/Pressure plate rather than the fork.
The reason that I think you can't get into gear when the car is running is that, again looking at the video of the left side, I'm not sure that you're disengaging the clutch. It looks to me like there is part of the clutch that is simply not releasing when you depress the pedal. In my head, that would account for why you can change gears without the engine running but not when it's started up and you have the crank/flywheel/everything else moving: you're not actually decoupling things in the current state.
Clever videos Dan. I'd say the top half of the clutch fork is broken or somehow malfunctioned as a result of that performance upgrade.
It's also possible something is wrong with the lower portion of the pressure plate spring. Rotate your engine 90 degrees and make those videos again. If they still look the same then it's probably the clutch fork. What's the origin of your pressure plate? Stock? Heavy Duty? New, Old?
Show us the report.
That sucks because its such a big job. Is it possible that maybe the flat spot on the clutch fork pin, dropped low enough into the bearing. That its offsetting the fork?
01-09-2020, 10:25 PM
Fork & TOB movement video - looks wrong?
