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FYI this is what my original one is like; back then I was driving on this and it just started getting noisy (the reason for the clutch job two winters ago)
Bonus: I decided to fit the bellhousing, paying attention to see what the hangup is with this Battlestar Galactica. Found it! Near the top area, there are two clips-on-pins holding the insulation tight, one of which totally gets in the way of a smooth install (and removal). A little tipsy, I cut down the other one.... then I cut down the offending one. I say better to cut both anyway
This is a must!! After cutting these down, the bellhousing goes on nice....just make sure you tuck the wires and slave in beside (let side) & forwards first.
Unless I'm reading that gauge wrong, I think I am ready. May the Fork be with you! Oh Gawd
So what you measured is good, Exactly the same as what I Got. I wasn't on here last night because I was removing Head Studs out of a 44 block … Long process but done , then I had to do a cam belt and BS belt setup on another engine, After all that was done my friend and I had a chat with Jack Daniels..
Wow.. you got a lot done last night. Must have been a good conversation after!
Yes, I am keeping the TOB and the PP as is. Appreciate your measurement. When I put in the new fork, before finishing the rest, I'll move the TT in, attach the slave, and boroscope the action. If it looks good, I can do all the rest
New fork is in. A little disappointing. These new Porsche supplied turbo forks appear not as substantial as the originals. You be the judge (new fork on the left)
To me, the new fork is thinner, lighter, and not very inspiring. I hope that I'm wrong and it's in fact an equal part. I paid $572 CDN tax and this includes a classic car discount.
I will begin work on installing and checking operation with the camera.
Q: what type of grease to put on the needle bearings and tips? German Guy video suggests "white grease". The needle bearings are wet with something, though it looks light. Last time, I put plain motor oil on the shaft--as recommended by the fork rebuilder--and the shaft slid out pretty well.
Now I'm not sure what to put on the shaft or the fork?
Just a very thin layer of regular ole grease.. it sticks in there. You don’t want it to drip that’s all I’ve ever used never an issue
As far as the new fork very interesting. Hope it’s some forking good quality steel
New fork is in. A little disappointing. These new Porsche supplied turbo forks appear not as substantial as the originals. You be the judge (new fork on the left)
To me, the new fork is thinner, lighter, and not very inspiring. I hope that I'm wrong and it's in fact an equal part. I paid $572 CDN tax and this includes a classic car discount.
I will begin work on installing and checking operation with the camera.
Q: what type of grease to put on the needle bearings and tips? German Guy video suggests "white grease". The needle bearings are wet with something, though it looks light. Last time, I put plain motor oil on the shaft--as recommended by the fork rebuilder--and the shaft slid out pretty well.
Now I'm not sure what to put on the shaft or the fork?
It looks like the forks are heat treated and the metal used also looks like they added more nickel. I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
Well.. I have no other choice: I installed the new fork last night, and all seems to fit properly. I also installed a new guide tube. The wear on the original and the most recent one is odd: both show uneven wear in the same spot with the original worn much more. It looks like the TOB moves unevenly, even the original one. Could the BH be compromised after 30years (ie. the angle of the fork shaft be off somehow)?
Also, German Guy's video shows him putting grease INSIDE the guide tube, not outside? It has totally confused me! I put some on both in and out
Today, I will put the torque tube on and check movement.
Q: do I have to install the transmission before activating the clutch? I'm thinking of attaching the TT and slave then observing the motion inside the BH before continuing with re-assembly. If I don't install the clutch, could something bad happen like a movement of the driveshaft inside the TT?
Go ahead and install everything without the TT NO issues EXCEPT... MAKE SURE YOUR CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL IS IN PLACE WHEN YOU ACTUATE THE CLUTCH, OTHERWISE THE DISK WILL DROP WHEN THE PP REEASES IT AND IT WILL FALL DOWN IN THE BH!!!!!!!!AND YOU WILL BE MAD IF IT DOES!
Alright.. this lousy rain all weekend kept me away from patient observations.. so, I just went ahead and started re-assembling the rest.. finished everything "upstairs" and just have exhaust left.
I was afraid to even push the pedal... but I finally did tonight, by hand. The pedal feels great. Really great. Super strong return. I haven't peeked inside with the endoscope yet, but by eye all seems level in the BH. However, I am concerned about the pedal digging into the carpet, something that's been happening for a longer time now. I have a hold in the carpet where the pedal stop hits.
I read with interest the info on Lindsey's site regarding their pedal stop product. The suggestion is that too much pedal travel breaks forks. This has me wondering if my pedal travel is too far. Not sure how or why this would happen, maybe something warps over the years. I do push hard to the floor and have always done so in any car without issue.
From their site: "So it is possible to over press the cluth (sic) pedal and once you reach the end of the travel of the pressure place, something is going to give if you keep depressing it. In this case, the weak lind (sic) is the clutch fork fingers that ride the clutch release bearing." Full story about their forks breaking one race weekend here https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/944-CPS.html
Dunno.. maybe I should get this pedal stop.. or make up something
I never gave that much thought because I never push my clutch pedal all the way to the floor. At the point where the clutch engages, and disengages is as far as I go with it.. I Never remember pushing it all the way to the floor.. If that is what you are doing then the pedal stop is a great option. My clutch usually is about 1/2 way down and that's it... There is no other stop, So that may be a significant contributing factor to why the fork broke. The slave cyl will travel as far as it can, to the point where it will spit out the rod if there is nothing to stop it. With pushing it all the way to the floor To are significantly increasing the stress on the Fork.
BTW, I think you meant "borescope", Isn't an "Endoscope" supposed to go up ones "tailpipe"?
Seems the Chinese endoscope everything (it's what the unit calls itself : )
In decades of driving exclusively standard cars, I have always pushed to the floor or pedal stop; in fact, I've taught all my buddies and kids to do it that way. This ensures complete disengagement. I also discourage holding the car with the clutch etc.
Never had an issue, and it seems cars--including ours--have built-in stops for this. The clutch pedal has a angled extension attached to its bottom that I imagine sets the limit of travel.
I think our pedals warp over time... or the angle stop is bent... or something. In any case, I can't imagine I'm the only one fully depressing the clutch, meaning there would be a ton of 944s with broken forks even from the start?
It's a bit steep for that LR piece. Maybe I can rig up something. Problem is, the area behind isn't flat. Would be great to install something on the floor (or is it firewall?) but I'm not keen on drilling into the body. Or.. is it no big deal?
Well, A hyd clutch sort of self adjusts... it does not take much movement to dis-engage it.. Once you overcome the PP spring it only needs to move a Hair for it to dis-engage.. When I am on the track I want minimal pedal travel.. I will have to measure it but I would dare to say that I am 1/2 way to the floor with it or less.. I remember when I "LOST" my clutch on Track... Due to the spring (under the dash) the pedal disappeared... and I mean.. I could not feel it with my foot... It snapped all the way up to the floor... Being belted in I could not look down (Plus i was doing 120Mph) I actually thought the pedal fell off.. when I got the car in the pits I could not believe how far that pedal traveled.. It was almost stuck way up under the dash... (not carpet or anything) Belted into the seat I could not reach it with the tip of my foot..
(The Slave Blew out) …
I've had clutch pedals get stuck to the floor--an old Golf's broken transmission case comes to mind--and I know 'the pedal disappeared' feeling. In any case, I'm going to look at "protecting" this travel; there's no way I'm going to change thirty years' of driving habit without some slip ups
The LR piece looks nice.. but it isn't perfect: the space behind the pedal isn't flat, so even LR's piece kinda catches it on the curve. In my car, it looks as if LR's piece would miss that catch all together and end up hitting the uneven area under the steering shaft. You can see what I mean here
The accelerator has a nice bolt... but unfortunately, this being under the steering shaft, there's likely no way to get in behind there and install some nut behind a bolt for the clutch. Or maybe I'm just missing something.
The pedal stop has a pointed tip, so you can't really add something there easily. There has to be more solutions?
01-14-2020, 12:35 AM
MAKE SURE YOUR CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL IS IN PLACE WHEN YOU ACTUATE THE CLUTCH, OTHERWISE THE DISK WILL DROP WHEN THE PP REEASES IT AND IT WILL FALL DOWN IN THE BH!!!!!!!!AND YOU WILL BE MAD IF IT DOES! 
