Dave

Me? or the rod?

Yeah, it wasn't going in like that! Now I'm wondering how much that reconditioning would effect the weight, the other 3 weren't removed from the block. I guess I should be glad that he didn't install the rod bearings, I would have never caught this if the caps hadn't been shipped in a box!

Chris Prack

My recommendation is if you have to cut one, cut them all. You should be able to get them done for $100 or less. You may find that the rod is garbage, depending on how it mic's out out of round.

Are you inclined to make this a good motor and use it? Given the issue's with this engine it may be the best thing to do in the long run. I don't want to add to your finical deficit but didn't you say the current engine has some kind of vibration or imbalance?

I know you have spent far more money than you intended and are still not confident in the results (to put it mildly) but it would be in your best interest to put together something you know is reliable than waiting for the other shoe to drop, so to speak.

Dave

Thanks Chris, The rod in question came with engine #2, it was reconditioned and reinstalled and has been in the car since last summer. At the time it didn't even occur to me that just doing one rod might have an impact on balance, I just wanted the car back together and had "other things" on my mind. I'm now (in hindsight) wondering if this might be part of the vibration in this motor. From the beginning the mechanic who did the install and I have assumed that the vibration is from the lightened crank, The crank was lightened and suposedly balanced but there is no indication that the rest of the reciprocating mass was lightened at all.
I've kept the original block to rebuild so I'm prepared when this one goes. I don't remember if I've mentioned it before but the only thing it needs is rings (only the #1 cyl really but, of course, I'll do 'em all while I'm in there. I'm not AMW after all!) and seals, I'll do the bearings too, as long as it's apart.

Dave

Oh yeah, as far as making anything from the first motor; no f-in' way, that block is shot. The only thing this block is good for is conversion to a 2.8/3.1, the #3 cyl is gouged too deeply to do anything but sleeve it, #4 isn't much better.

Dave

I got a letter from the San Diego area BBB. As expected, AMW didn't reply to their first attempt to establish contact and they have made a second attempt. They'll let me know again in two weeks...any guesses?