The seals that thomasmryan is talking about you only have to worry about if you are replacing the camshaft, balance shafts, and crankshaft front seals. While it's a good idea to do those seals while you're in there it's not mandatory. You don't need any more special tools to do those seals than you need for water pump replacement except for a triple square socket for the camshaft bolt.

 

Yes, not mandatory but common practice to replace those items with the pump every other belt change.

Steel fasteners in aluminum might need a slight tap before you attempt to loosen them. Coat the threads of your new studs to avoid future headaches.

If you get a green water pump gasket, it should be installed dry. If you get a grey or black gasket, it is wise to use some hylomar or a gasket sealant.

 

 

 

I'm about to order the stuff to do my first 944 (86 N/A) timing belt and water pump change. Also doing a new head gasket and having head checked out.
I am going to order from AllZim. Here is what I am ordering:
Timing Belt Kit with rollers AllZims SKU: 944.102/105.LKT $214.00
Water Pump AllZims SKU: 944.106.021.22 $139.95
Water Pump Gasket AllZims SKU: 944.106.132.04 $3.95
Head Gasket Set AllZims SKU: 944.100.901.00 $132.00

My question is about the other stuff they sell on the same page: (Do I need any of it?)
Loctite 574 Case Sealant $39
Reinzosil Sealing Compound $15
Drei Bond Silikone 1209 $28
Curil T Sealing Compound $19

 

no to all 4 things you asked about

 

Thanks Spencer.

 

What is the philosophy on the Oil Cooler seals? Replace when you do a head gasket?

 

eventually, you will replace all the seals.

 

If I go with this new water pump rather then the rebuilt pump, do I still need the block off plate?
http://www.allzim.com/store/new-wate...-944-944s.html

 

Nope. Better off without it.

 

Hi Thomas,
I have read many online arguments (not on Porsche forums) about anti-seize on bolts. People seem violently against it or swear by it -- very polarized opinions. What kind of compound do you recommend to coat the threads with? Have you seen people argue over using anti-seize on fasteners? Just curious.
-Chris

 

antiseize is goodness in places where seizing can be a problem.
make sure you only get it on the threads and not under the bolt head though.
however do note that having coated "lubricated" threads will reduce the required torque value about 25%.

hard to measure on an M6 waterpump bolt that only gets 6 lbft anyways.
get an inch-lb torque wrench and set it to 75% of 72 in-lbs (6 ftlbs) = 54 in-lbs (4.5 lb-ft), or "about snug with a hand on a ratchet"

 

 

I haven't seen any arguments, but I tend to stick to this place for the most part.

Over in the 928 forum, they swear by anti-seize.

There are different compounds for the different metals. Steel bolts into aluminum get silver, steel into steel gets copper.
As was noted, torque needs to be reduced because of the lubricity of it, but that's not a big deal.

Once you've had to drill out a seized bolt, drill out the hole and put in a Time-Sert, you will become a convert.