Back Pad Needed! And The Story of a '74 1.8...
#16
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Not the one I was thinking of, but http://www.seatbeltsolutions.com/index.html
Google seat belt repair or seat belt rewebbing. Those are the kind of people that can help out.
Google seat belt repair or seat belt rewebbing. Those are the kind of people that can help out.
#17
Peter it sounds like you have solved your back pad problem but for others, Appearance and Performance in Oregon makes a back pad with fiberglass internal structure and new vinyl. Very reasonable too... James and Heidi Houge are their names. This is a very good reproduction.
www.appearanceandperformance.com
www.appearanceandperformance.com
Last edited by Rotten Robby; 11-18-2010 at 01:00 PM.
#18
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OK, I've been asked to post some pics of this mess that I've gotten involved with, and my son just sent me an e-mail that said (I paraphrase), "Dad, I hope that you're going to document the repairs and post some pictures." Well, here's a start! Wires, wires, everywhere. Some connected, some not. Some circuits backwards, some not. Some harness sections cut open, some not. Some "fixes" soldered, some not. Some wires broken, some not. How could this happen? The mess at the center tunnel is where the seat belt interlock/no start, equipment was. And after that was "fixed," the car still wouldn't start. Hmmmmmmm...
Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 11-19-2010 at 04:40 PM.
#19
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And more...
Before and after - the wheels. Old, peeling chrome and corrosion removed by A.C. Plating here in Bakersfield. $100 ($25 ea.). Powder coated by American Fabricators here in Bakersfield, $200 ($50 ea.).
Before and after - the wheels. Old, peeling chrome and corrosion removed by A.C. Plating here in Bakersfield. $100 ($25 ea.). Powder coated by American Fabricators here in Bakersfield, $200 ($50 ea.).
Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 11-19-2010 at 04:31 PM.
#20
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It's been unusually cold (mid-30s to mid-40s in my garage) here the last week so I haven't accomplished much. I have found and paid for a nice, upholstered, back pad, center tunnel tray and cushion, but the seller seems to have run up against a time issue and I'm still waiting for the parts. More on this when something changes.
I've been looking at this problem (pictured)...and realize that I should address it while the gas tank is out, and the fresh air fan housing is out (to repair more wiring, of course - this time the fuel gauge sender wiring), because I don't even know if the wiper system is seized or functional, and I guess there's no time like now to address the issue (at least the right side wiper post "well" is in good condition).
Out comes the Dremel...wish me luck!
I've been looking at this problem (pictured)...and realize that I should address it while the gas tank is out, and the fresh air fan housing is out (to repair more wiring, of course - this time the fuel gauge sender wiring), because I don't even know if the wiper system is seized or functional, and I guess there's no time like now to address the issue (at least the right side wiper post "well" is in good condition).
Out comes the Dremel...wish me luck!
#22
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WHEW! Dodged a bullet with the rust at the wiper arm post. No perforations, just minor surface pitting. This is a big relief because I don't own welding equipment, and don't enjoy cutting on cars! A little body putty to smooth out the area...
This gives me a little confidence that I'll find metal in similar condition at the other body problem, at the lead edge/bottom of the roll bar, left side.
BTW; on another note, I ended up buying shoulder harness assemblies (inertia reels, receivers and hardware - all new) from Professionally Engineered Products (PEP) in Northern CA. I will post photos of the product when I receive my order. Total cost was $320 + $8 for shipping.
This gives me a little confidence that I'll find metal in similar condition at the other body problem, at the lead edge/bottom of the roll bar, left side.
BTW; on another note, I ended up buying shoulder harness assemblies (inertia reels, receivers and hardware - all new) from Professionally Engineered Products (PEP) in Northern CA. I will post photos of the product when I receive my order. Total cost was $320 + $8 for shipping.
Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 12-06-2010 at 09:11 PM.
#23
Official Wednesday AM Red Bull F1 test driver
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I put the PEP enertia belts on my '71 as it came with non enertia adjustable belts- did it about 10 years ago figuring belts that at time were already 30 years old and should probably be replaced. Obviously not OEM but they work fine and are light years better than what it came with... (of course I still have them in a box somewhere... ) The belts on the '73 still work well but I worry about something that important that is that old!
#24
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Interesting note on my belts. PEP told me that one of my original inertia reels had been tinkered with, and one of its functions had been disabled. The very old webbing had me worried, add to that the one reel that was extremely difficult to operate (it would lock while being extended), I just decided to go with PEP's new stuff. I also had rusty anchors at the floor (both sides), and basically all of the plastic washers that allow the D-rings and anchors to pivot were junk. I think that it's money well spent.
#26
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OK, weather warmed up a little, so I made a little progress. Wiring is getting better (first two pics), gas tank is ready to go back in, complete with delivery and return pipes, and fuel sender, installed (second two pics), and the wiper post area continues to get better (need some body putty to get the surface a little smoother (last pic).
#27
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Jay, this is the disaster I started with (pics taken after three hours of spider web/mouse crap removal)... forgot to shoot the interior, but it's clean (nice seats, good dash/no cracks, good panels except backpad, no console or junk tray).
#30
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One more pic, this is what you have to do in order to remove the wiper motor and its frame (a support nut lives behind the speedo). The bad news is that my rubber support "buffer" is broken, and the part is NLA (I have ordered a CIS airbox support "buffer" to use in its place, but the 911 part is larger in diameter and uses 8mm hardware, instead of 6mm)...
What the heck, I had to check continuity between one of the broken wires in the engine compartment, and the tach, anyway! And there was no grease on the horn contact behind the steering wheel, and...
What the heck, I had to check continuity between one of the broken wires in the engine compartment, and the tach, anyway! And there was no grease on the horn contact behind the steering wheel, and...