Back Pad Needed! And The Story of a '74 1.8...
04-08-2011, 08:17 PM
#76
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have noticed since Porsche is not stocking a lot of parts in North America any longer a lot of the parts have to be ordered from Germany. This is really slowing things down. I am waiting for parts my self. Seem the Vendors all show thy have it and you can do your on line order and then you find out a week later the parts are now on order and will ship when they get them.
Looks like from now on we are going have to call first to see if they actually have the part on the shelf or will have to order it from Porsche. Some vendors are better than others.
Looks like from now on we are going have to call first to see if they actually have the part on the shelf or will have to order it from Porsche. Some vendors are better than others.
The amount of NLA's that I've gotten, for my '74 1.8, is truly disturbing. Those items include things like the fuel supply pipe that fits in the bottom of the gas tank, fuel lines in the tunnel, F.I. engine harness, relay board parts, air filter lower housing, more recently injectors and intake runner spacers/gaskets, and a host of other items.
What Porsche does seem able to supply are parts that cross over into the 911/912 system. For example, I was able to buy a complete set of pedal bushings and a clutch shaft roll pin, but could not get a new fuel filler cap or the special rubber spacer/mount for the windshield wiper motor/frame assembly. I had to go to the after market for rebuilt rear brake calipers, and new parts like a clutch cable, the o-ring and seal for the oil cap, sump strainer gasket kits, brake flex hoses and enough other items to keep my fax machine plenty busy.
I have no way of knowing if Porsche is genuinely interested, as claimed in a recent story in Excellence, in maintaining a flow of 914 parts for USA owners, but my experience definitely says that they are not.
04-13-2011, 05:15 PM
#77
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm in a holding pattern, waiting for parts. I tried to wet sand, with 800 grit, the front trunk lid, but there were too many cracks, dents, peeling chunks of paint and road rash to ever look even kinda good. So, I decided to re-finish the lid and the left headlight cover; even though I had decided that I would be happy with polish work only except for the two or three small areas that had surface rust . So much for that!
Pictured is a before, and a during, of the front lid and headlight cover. I also removed the front bumper and "repaired" a big dent and damaged paint/surface rust at the right side overrider. The overrider was almost torn completely loose, and just hung on with one of the two mounting studs. It ain't perfect, but will look OK when it's back on the car.
Man, working with rattle cans trying for a 10% gain in appearance, and trying to control dust, is a real bitch. This part of the project would have been so much easier if the car was white! Now I have to wait a few days, get out the sanding block and 800 grit, and see if I can fix what I did. That said, if I go out and buy a paint spray gun, throw me a rope because I've gone over the edge...
Pictured is a before, and a during, of the front lid and headlight cover. I also removed the front bumper and "repaired" a big dent and damaged paint/surface rust at the right side overrider. The overrider was almost torn completely loose, and just hung on with one of the two mounting studs. It ain't perfect, but will look OK when it's back on the car.
Man, working with rattle cans trying for a 10% gain in appearance, and trying to control dust, is a real bitch. This part of the project would have been so much easier if the car was white! Now I have to wait a few days, get out the sanding block and 800 grit, and see if I can fix what I did. That said, if I go out and buy a paint spray gun, throw me a rope because I've gone over the edge...
Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 04-14-2011 at 09:40 PM.
04-20-2011, 01:12 AM
#80
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, the injectors are installed, I now have four cylinders, fewer backfires, but the engine is still sluggish and won't clear its throat. It still won't idle but I think that I can run it long enough to set the point dwell, and I've still got to measure fuel pressure. Next if that's all OK...shoulder shrug.
Do any of you guys know how the ECU pins are numbered so I can do continuity checks from the computer to the injectors, ground points, etc.?
Do any of you guys know how the ECU pins are numbered so I can do continuity checks from the computer to the injectors, ground points, etc.?
04-20-2011, 11:18 AM
#82
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I didn't see it, but the info is probably here http://bowlsby.net/914/WiringHarnesses/
WOW! Thank you, thank you, thank you,
!!!
04-20-2011, 02:09 PM
#83
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
04-20-2011, 10:43 PM
#85
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
04-21-2011, 08:28 AM
#87
Rennlist Hoonigan
which cost no drachmas
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
which cost no drachmas
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
04-21-2011, 10:34 AM
#89
Addict
Well, we aren't as close as Bill Ayers and President Obama, but we are getting there. 