New member, older car...
09-12-2012, 10:40 AM
#16
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My folder of receipts is 180 miles away but I imagine you're correct. In these situations I like to assume worst case. I won't know until I get it out and apart...fingers crossed that it may have come loose.
09-12-2012, 10:53 AM
#17
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well if it just came loose you should be able to thread it back in. can you just pull it straight out or is there just too much stuff in the way ?
09-12-2012, 11:22 AM
#18
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The upper valve cover is in the way. I'm a car guy that trusts his own work above all others... I'm looking forward to pulling this out to comb through it.
09-12-2012, 12:42 PM
#19
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id be whipping the upper valve cover off to see before dropping the whole engine .. if a broken piece comes out, if it screws back in , or if the whole things comes out and cant be screwed back in will at least tell you where you stand.
09-12-2012, 01:59 PM
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Yeah, that was a portion of my lunch break. I have a thread going over on Pelican that is going over the rebuild that is looming, very similar to this thread.
I have a good picture to upload from my slr later tonight of this stud. You can see in the cell phone picture above what I'm going to point out in the SLR picture that shows it much more clearly. The body of the stud has striations in the same manner as the cardboard core of a roll of paper towels or tp...to me this is an obvious indicator of a tooling flaw during the manufacturing process as they roll out the stock. These striations are the same angle as the break. The tool must have had a bur that was imprinted on the body of the stud top to bottom circling around about 1cm at about 30 degrees... definitely a sign of ****-poor quality control.
I have a good picture to upload from my slr later tonight of this stud. You can see in the cell phone picture above what I'm going to point out in the SLR picture that shows it much more clearly. The body of the stud has striations in the same manner as the cardboard core of a roll of paper towels or tp...to me this is an obvious indicator of a tooling flaw during the manufacturing process as they roll out the stock. These striations are the same angle as the break. The tool must have had a bur that was imprinted on the body of the stud top to bottom circling around about 1cm at about 30 degrees... definitely a sign of ****-poor quality control.
09-12-2012, 09:50 PM
#21
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A '74 would have a 150hp 2.7l motor
A '74S would have a 167hp 2.7l motor, I also think they had larger front brakes
A '74 Carrera would have the same "S" motor, but also rear flares, ducktail etc.
The vin will tell you the year. "Trim" package? harder to tell. Many complain that the early cars' COA have too many innacuracies, but at least it would be a start.
Bummer about the engine..
09-12-2012, 11:30 PM
#22
Team Owner
Those guys on pelllican know there stuff. I think the broken stud is good. If it pulled out of the case would be much worse.
you may get away with new studs as oppose to splitting the case. depends how deep you want to go my guess is it was busted before you bought it
you may get away with new studs as oppose to splitting the case. depends how deep you want to go my guess is it was busted before you bought it
09-12-2012, 11:51 PM
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I think you're correct on it being broken when I bought... the epoxy was warn below the threads where the bolt rattled around on it for awhile. I'm planning the angle of attack with parts now.
Made my first "mod" to the car tonight in replacing the battery with a sealed Optima red-top unit.
Made my first "mod" to the car tonight in replacing the battery with a sealed Optima red-top unit.
09-13-2012, 01:45 AM
#24
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Nice looking example,you should post VIN it could explain a lot more,the flares are added '74 wouldn't
have them unless of course it was an early Carrera, the paint as mentioned was redone not sure slate
grey was offered as original in '74 also it does appear to be a Euro car by the bumpers and no a/c
although many 74/75 911s were not well equiped option wise.
Tough call on the head stud but luckily it may be possible to extract with out going into bottom end but cam towers and heads on one side at least would need removal ...Bert
have them unless of course it was an early Carrera, the paint as mentioned was redone not sure slate
grey was offered as original in '74 also it does appear to be a Euro car by the bumpers and no a/c
although many 74/75 911s were not well equiped option wise.
Tough call on the head stud but luckily it may be possible to extract with out going into bottom end but cam towers and heads on one side at least would need removal ...Bert
09-13-2012, 09:29 AM
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Thanks Bert. I actually have a known history on this car for the most part. This is car #3422 which should allow you to determine the VIN if you'd like. It was yellow originally which didn't suite the tastes of the previous owner (and I don't blame him one bit). The interior was redone in chosen material from the headliner down. I do have all the AC parts for the car that were removed when the PMO carbs went on as well as all the CIS injection and ignition parts that came off back in 1991. Beyond the sheet metal work on the rear arches and galvanized front fenders the car could be returned to stock although the changes agree with my likes so that probably won't be happening under my watch. There are some "back in the day" photos when the work was being done that were passed on with the file that goes with the car. I have a scanner here so I'll try to post those up maybe next week... it's a throw-back to see work that was being done when I was in 4th grade and the first gulf war was in full swing.
As for the headstuds - I think it may be time to change them all as I suspect they are all from the same batch. There is some oil leaking so I plan to change all seals and gaskets while I'm in there but not splitting the case unless there is an unpleasant surprise.
As for the headstuds - I think it may be time to change them all as I suspect they are all from the same batch. There is some oil leaking so I plan to change all seals and gaskets while I'm in there but not splitting the case unless there is an unpleasant surprise.
09-13-2012, 10:58 AM
#26
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nice color - is that meteor grey??
09-13-2012, 11:10 PM
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The color is easy on the eyes and seems to work well with the interior. I'm not sure the color; the PO did mention it came on later Audi/Porsche cars but the exact name escapes me. It may be located on the paperwork as I believe it was painted a couple times during his ownership.
As a DIY'er I figure this thread is best to share my experiences as I begin some basic work on the car.
I changed out the trans fluid tonight for Royal Purple. The fluid that came out was relatively clean; no chunks on the drain plug and still fairly clear but the age was unknown so I figured it would be cheap insurance for a clean start.. It's a bit late in the evening for an impression of the new fluid/drive so that will have to wait until tomorrow night. Prior to the fluid change the shifting was notchier than I would expect although no grinds as long as you engaged 2nd gear prior to requesting 1st.
I took a quick glance at the bottom of the jugs that I could see on my back and noticed a few had oil drips. There were plates covering the head studs that are wedged in pretty well. I imagine they pop off with a light tugging but didn't want to risk breaking if there were an alternate method. New studs have been ordered; I'm about to order the gasket kit but would first like to confirm my intake port size should something other than stock be required.
I also ordered a billet aluminum battery mount kit as the PO had wooden blocks to prevent the battery positive terminal from contacting the fuel tank. I'll pop a few picks as I go in the coming days. I'm trying to pace myself to make sure the alterations/repairs that I make are in the best respect to the car.
As a DIY'er I figure this thread is best to share my experiences as I begin some basic work on the car.
I changed out the trans fluid tonight for Royal Purple. The fluid that came out was relatively clean; no chunks on the drain plug and still fairly clear but the age was unknown so I figured it would be cheap insurance for a clean start.. It's a bit late in the evening for an impression of the new fluid/drive so that will have to wait until tomorrow night. Prior to the fluid change the shifting was notchier than I would expect although no grinds as long as you engaged 2nd gear prior to requesting 1st.
I took a quick glance at the bottom of the jugs that I could see on my back and noticed a few had oil drips. There were plates covering the head studs that are wedged in pretty well. I imagine they pop off with a light tugging but didn't want to risk breaking if there were an alternate method. New studs have been ordered; I'm about to order the gasket kit but would first like to confirm my intake port size should something other than stock be required.
I also ordered a billet aluminum battery mount kit as the PO had wooden blocks to prevent the battery positive terminal from contacting the fuel tank. I'll pop a few picks as I go in the coming days. I'm trying to pace myself to make sure the alterations/repairs that I make are in the best respect to the car.
09-15-2012, 11:44 AM
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Couple Updates - first I found the VIN decoder for the 10 digit VIN and it looks like this is a 74 911T or was there such as thing as a 911G... The full fahrgestell (hello future from the past!) is Typ 911 G 9114103422. If anyone has more information on this chassis then please feel free to share.
1) Drove last night with the Royal Purple transmission fluid and this made a nice change in the shifting action. Much smoother entering gears especially 1st and 3rd. I read about these transmissions not liking to shift to 1st from any gear other than second so I have the habit of doing that down now. I've also mastered using the hand throttle to keep the revs from dropping but not racing during shifts... I tend to take my time selecting gears.
2) After driving around and getting it good and hot last night (180F oil temp), I drained the oil and removed the filter and let it drip down overnight. I have a fresh filter and 11qts of oil to go back in but I'm thinking about adjusting the valves or pulling the engine for the refresh before I do that.
3) My ARP 0070-204-4206 hardware kit arrived just now from Jegs. These were listed as head studs for 65-89 911/930 models but I was surprised to open the box and find this is a bolt kit. ARP instructions included in the kit state:
180,000PSI, 7/16" diameter
1) To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean ALL threads in the block. Chase if necessary with ARP Thread Chaser.
2) Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension.
3) Position the chamfered side of the waster on the bolt so it faces the bolt head. This is done to clear the radius on the under head of the bolt. NOTE: Improper installation of the washer will cause premature bolt failure.
4) If the cylinder head bolts protrude into a water jacket, lubricate the threads of the bolts with ARP THREAD SEALER.
5) If the cylinder head bolts protrude into a blind hole, lubricate the threads of the bolts with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
6) Install the cylinder heads and check for binding or misalignment.
7) Lubricate the under head of the bolt and washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT that is provided with each kit as opposed to motor oil. This is due to the higher friction on the bolts as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil or other low quality lubricants are used.
Preload Torque Specifications
8) Follow the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the bolts in three equal steps to 70FT lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
Is it me or does 70ft lbs seem a bit high drawing on an aluminum/magnesium case? On steel blocks we draw ARP to like 84ft lbs and lube threads at both ends to prevent galling.
1) Drove last night with the Royal Purple transmission fluid and this made a nice change in the shifting action. Much smoother entering gears especially 1st and 3rd. I read about these transmissions not liking to shift to 1st from any gear other than second so I have the habit of doing that down now. I've also mastered using the hand throttle to keep the revs from dropping but not racing during shifts... I tend to take my time selecting gears.
2) After driving around and getting it good and hot last night (180F oil temp), I drained the oil and removed the filter and let it drip down overnight. I have a fresh filter and 11qts of oil to go back in but I'm thinking about adjusting the valves or pulling the engine for the refresh before I do that.
3) My ARP 0070-204-4206 hardware kit arrived just now from Jegs. These were listed as head studs for 65-89 911/930 models but I was surprised to open the box and find this is a bolt kit. ARP instructions included in the kit state:
Originally Posted by ARP
180,000PSI, 7/16" diameter
1) To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean ALL threads in the block. Chase if necessary with ARP Thread Chaser.
2) Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension.
3) Position the chamfered side of the waster on the bolt so it faces the bolt head. This is done to clear the radius on the under head of the bolt. NOTE: Improper installation of the washer will cause premature bolt failure.
4) If the cylinder head bolts protrude into a water jacket, lubricate the threads of the bolts with ARP THREAD SEALER.
5) If the cylinder head bolts protrude into a blind hole, lubricate the threads of the bolts with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
6) Install the cylinder heads and check for binding or misalignment.
7) Lubricate the under head of the bolt and washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT that is provided with each kit as opposed to motor oil. This is due to the higher friction on the bolts as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil or other low quality lubricants are used.
Preload Torque Specifications
8) Follow the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the bolts in three equal steps to 70FT lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.