New member, older car...
09-16-2012, 08:14 PM
#31
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Enough words, probably boring to read. Here's some more pics from this afternoon:
Pic of the stud from cyl5
SSI Exchangers removed, needing a clean up from the oil leaker above
Wiring for carb swap
View from the bottom after an hour or so of cleaning/wiping
Exhaust ports measure about 34-35mm
Turbo valve covers?
Still learning what is included here... the SSI exchangers weren't described in the sale. Seller stated simply "This car has everything that Bruce Anderson describes in his book for modifications"...
Pic of the stud from cyl5
SSI Exchangers removed, needing a clean up from the oil leaker above
Wiring for carb swap
View from the bottom after an hour or so of cleaning/wiping
Exhaust ports measure about 34-35mm
Turbo valve covers?
Still learning what is included here... the SSI exchangers weren't described in the sale. Seller stated simply "This car has everything that Bruce Anderson describes in his book for modifications"...
09-16-2012, 11:18 PM
#32
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Giving a good read through
and learning quite a bit. Checking over my VIN this is a regular 911 which should have an engine type 911/92 which would be 32mm ports stock... so it appears the car does have the larger port heads described as RS by the previous owner. RS ports on engine 911/83 would be 36mm intake, 35mm exhaust... I hope to have the carbs/intake manifolds off later this week to confirm.
09-17-2012, 11:56 AM
#33
Team Owner
Well:
1. if you have the oil out i would certainly take the sump cover off if you haven't done this before and clean the screen and put new gaskets in.
2. I wouldnt waste my money on new battery and other "frilly things" until you get the engine fixed and use your budget there.
3. I would have left the exchenagers on for the engine to sit on something then just drop it, put it on the stand, then remove the exchangers.
pics look good though and look forward to your progress.
1. if you have the oil out i would certainly take the sump cover off if you haven't done this before and clean the screen and put new gaskets in.
2. I wouldnt waste my money on new battery and other "frilly things" until you get the engine fixed and use your budget there.
3. I would have left the exchenagers on for the engine to sit on something then just drop it, put it on the stand, then remove the exchangers.
pics look good though and look forward to your progress.
09-18-2012, 12:53 AM
#34
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I appreciate the input. I'll be sure to remove the sump cover and clean the pickup screen as part of the refresh. The battery was leftover from a VW project that had a dead optima on warranty and was 800 miles from the nearest retailer that would honor the warranty...I put a cheeseball battery in the VW and it has been great. When I made it back to civilization I exchanged the optima which has been waiting on my battery maintainer for a bit over a year and coincidentally is perfect for this 911. I did come out of pocket for a billet mount which I believe is necessary from a safety perspective as wedged blocks of wood standing between the battery and fuel tank is asking for trouble. I'll post pics/review when the billet mount arrives... hopefully the quality matches the photos.
Another member suggested removing the exchangers on the engine in the car due to ease of access. It took a bit of fumbling around to discover the right tool combination to get at all the nuts but all in all they weren't that bad to remove. I have a dedicated transmission jack that will be padded for the case to contact when the time comes to lower the engine down. I'm taking my time cleaning the oil grime from everything which is taking more time than I would like. It's really caked on heavy in some areas. The SSI exchangers are probably as clean as they will ever be; I may consider hitting them with polishing compound/rotary buffer but that's only if I find plenty of spare time. Couple pics from the 2hrs in the garage tonight:
Still plenty of cleaning left on the transmission next.
Another member suggested removing the exchangers on the engine in the car due to ease of access. It took a bit of fumbling around to discover the right tool combination to get at all the nuts but all in all they weren't that bad to remove. I have a dedicated transmission jack that will be padded for the case to contact when the time comes to lower the engine down. I'm taking my time cleaning the oil grime from everything which is taking more time than I would like. It's really caked on heavy in some areas. The SSI exchangers are probably as clean as they will ever be; I may consider hitting them with polishing compound/rotary buffer but that's only if I find plenty of spare time. Couple pics from the 2hrs in the garage tonight:
Still plenty of cleaning left on the transmission next.
09-18-2012, 01:18 PM
#35
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Well its not the first time its been apart i think. I am pretty sure the engine case doesnt come painted. But looks like it cleaned up nice for sure. The exchangers came out great too. You have to be carefull aking the engine out now and need to build some kind of rudimentary sadle for the engine to sit on. Dont want to damage the sump plate where the oil drain plug is or the return tubes. Unless of course you are putting new ones on.
09-18-2012, 04:24 PM
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Yep, not the first time being apart. Documentation is of full work-up in 1991 about 50k back at which time all modifications were performed for RS spec head/piston along with the PMO carbs, msd, mech advance distro, short shift, oil cooler, ac removal, exhaust, body work and etc.
I have a harbor freight transmission jack with the V-shaped cradle and nylon strap that I will be using to drop the engine from the car. Once out I have a hoist and stand to work from if necessary. my thought is that it might be easier to do a bank at a time if possible... need to read up more on the feasibility with the crank geometry so I can put the pistons back in after servicing each cylinder.
I have a harbor freight transmission jack with the V-shaped cradle and nylon strap that I will be using to drop the engine from the car. Once out I have a hoist and stand to work from if necessary. my thought is that it might be easier to do a bank at a time if possible... need to read up more on the feasibility with the crank geometry so I can put the pistons back in after servicing each cylinder.
09-19-2012, 11:23 PM
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Hope you're all enjoying the journey as much as I am on this one. I'm taking my time breaking this thing down in the evenings after work... nice break from the desk after a more than full day. Popped the carbs off tonight as well as the alternator and some of the vents to make it a bit easier to slide from beneath later.
Fresh alternator:
Removing the alternator/fan allowed me to take a look at the top of the engine where I could see some of the cylinder gaskets pooped out between the jug and the case on 2 of the cyls although I could see no signs of pulled or broken studs. Strangely the cyl with the broken stud that I found from blowing off the plug wire is completely dry here unlike the two that lost gaskets.... so go figure.
Appears the case was outfitted with Time-serts (timecerts?) already.
Popped the starter out as well and then called it a night. I need to read up on the clutch release bearing activity that awaits me before I can drop the engine. Probably a solid 2hrs could be spent cleaning the crud off the transmission... which was full of fluid when I drained it so I'm not sure where all the crud is coming from unless it was over-filled during the last service and it blew out the breather until back to normal level. I dunno.
Fresh alternator:
Removing the alternator/fan allowed me to take a look at the top of the engine where I could see some of the cylinder gaskets pooped out between the jug and the case on 2 of the cyls although I could see no signs of pulled or broken studs. Strangely the cyl with the broken stud that I found from blowing off the plug wire is completely dry here unlike the two that lost gaskets.... so go figure.
Appears the case was outfitted with Time-serts (timecerts?) already.
Popped the starter out as well and then called it a night. I need to read up on the clutch release bearing activity that awaits me before I can drop the engine. Probably a solid 2hrs could be spent cleaning the crud off the transmission... which was full of fluid when I drained it so I'm not sure where all the crud is coming from unless it was over-filled during the last service and it blew out the breather until back to normal level. I dunno.
09-20-2012, 02:39 PM
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Lunch-hour progress today... removed the lower intake manifold/carb bases and then the main shroud so I could take a good look at the remaining top studs. All look fine. May drop tonight or tomorrow.
09-21-2012, 12:03 AM
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I think so... you see the different color material around the base of the stud? I was hoping to pop the heads off tonight which will answer a lot of important questions about what this engine will need but I need bigger jack stands. I may not be able to get back to it until Sunday.
It's all free just sitting on the jack cradle...
It's all free just sitting on the jack cradle...
09-21-2012, 08:57 AM
#41
Team Owner
too bad you cant drop a block and tackle into the trunk from your ceiling and fasen it to a 4by 4 through the trunk hole and lift the car off.
yea i still cant see the time cert . maybe i will be able to see better when you pull it off.. i see soemthing on that case bolt thing but not the stud. the base gaket pic is scary. means others are pulling out or neer retorquing. I think you may be doing this just in time before more carniage occurs.
yea i still cant see the time cert . maybe i will be able to see better when you pull it off.. i see soemthing on that case bolt thing but not the stud. the base gaket pic is scary. means others are pulling out or neer retorquing. I think you may be doing this just in time before more carniage occurs.
09-21-2012, 09:44 AM
#42
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Rear lower valance is easy to remove. I've also found most SUV's have screw type jacks that get a little more height. I typically put my jack stands on blocks of wood to get more height for the rear. (and I usually take the transmission and engine out together too - but just doing the engine is fine.
Looks to me like you have time certs now. - that's good.
Looks to me like you have time certs now. - that's good.
09-26-2012, 09:14 PM
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Ended up taking the rear valence/bumper off. I searched for awhile to try to find instructions on how to do this and the manual I have doesn't specify exactly how to.
How to remove the rear bumper on a 1974 Porsche 911:
1) Unplug license plate lights so wires are loose... this takes about 2mins with a flathead screw driver.
2) 2x8MM bolts on the accordion bumper trims on each side are accessible from underneath/behind. Take the two on each side that are furthest to the back so the accordions stay on the car and not on the bumper. After you get the nuts off the back you must push the accordion away from the bumper so the studs release.
3) Remove small caps on the thin rubber trim on the back bumper... one on each side. Don't take the big one off... leave it alone. They will be about 6MM wide and blend in... there are phillips head screws underneath that have to be removed as well. Once the screws are backed out, peel the rubber strips carefully away from the bumper only until you see two nuts on each side... these do not come off entirely in this step. Clean up before reinstalling so you don't have damage to the paint from sand etc.
4) 2x13MM bolts on each side are the last step for the bumper to come free. Be careful to support the weight of the bumper as you get to the last so you don't drop it and wreck the paint.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
I haven't made as much progress as I would like to this point but I think it's more important to get everything clean and to be thorough in documenting as you break it all down. I've been through a roll of blue shop towels, 50 nitrile gloves, and 3 cans of cleaner to get to the point you see below. The amount of filth that has come off the engine thus far is incredible and there is a lot more to go. There was grime packed in everywhere...
My parts order from Pelican is in and the new headstuds are set to arrive on 10/3/2012. I removed the lower valve cover on the left bank and checked all the studs. Surprisingly there are no broken studs on the left side of the engine at all. I have more cleaning to do tomorrow before I may safely open the lower cover on the right bank to get the final count. I'm keeping my fingers crossed...
How to remove the rear bumper on a 1974 Porsche 911:
1) Unplug license plate lights so wires are loose... this takes about 2mins with a flathead screw driver.
2) 2x8MM bolts on the accordion bumper trims on each side are accessible from underneath/behind. Take the two on each side that are furthest to the back so the accordions stay on the car and not on the bumper. After you get the nuts off the back you must push the accordion away from the bumper so the studs release.
3) Remove small caps on the thin rubber trim on the back bumper... one on each side. Don't take the big one off... leave it alone. They will be about 6MM wide and blend in... there are phillips head screws underneath that have to be removed as well. Once the screws are backed out, peel the rubber strips carefully away from the bumper only until you see two nuts on each side... these do not come off entirely in this step. Clean up before reinstalling so you don't have damage to the paint from sand etc.
4) 2x13MM bolts on each side are the last step for the bumper to come free. Be careful to support the weight of the bumper as you get to the last so you don't drop it and wreck the paint.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
I haven't made as much progress as I would like to this point but I think it's more important to get everything clean and to be thorough in documenting as you break it all down. I've been through a roll of blue shop towels, 50 nitrile gloves, and 3 cans of cleaner to get to the point you see below. The amount of filth that has come off the engine thus far is incredible and there is a lot more to go. There was grime packed in everywhere...
My parts order from Pelican is in and the new headstuds are set to arrive on 10/3/2012. I removed the lower valve cover on the left bank and checked all the studs. Surprisingly there are no broken studs on the left side of the engine at all. I have more cleaning to do tomorrow before I may safely open the lower cover on the right bank to get the final count. I'm keeping my fingers crossed...
09-27-2012, 02:47 PM
#44
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I'm determined to spice up this forum with my updates... even if they're a bit boring.
Lunchtime delivery... about 5 times as large as the original box that they sent that was mislabeled. I wasn't expecting these until 10/3 so now I'm feeling the pressure to locate a set of cam tools to get this thing done... I'm half way tempted to purchase the spring compressor tools myself to lap the valve and change the stem seals. If the other half of the engine does not have catastrophic failure evidence then I will probably pop for those.
Finally had a chance to go through my folder of receipts. The engine was built by Stephen Rogers of Leverett, MA with some labor paid to Dutcher Automotive in 1988. Work & Parts at the time (would be nice to get these prices back):
2.7RS Pistons & Cylinders - $1298
Gaskets & Hardware - 150
Rod Bolts & Nuts - $146
SSI Exhaust - $750
Chains - $48
Tensioners - $116
Locks - $16
Oil return Tubes - $80
PMO Webers - $1118
Cams - $350
Rod Bearings - $75
Main Bearings - $60
Oil Radiator - $175
Valve Covers - $75
Paint/Cleaning Supplies - $42
Stress Bar - $110
Clutch Face Plate - $140
Cam tower oil lines - $19
Alternator - $140
Knee Pads - $17.40
Labor - $1190 (Remove & Deliver motor, port cylinder heads, modify sheet metal heat synks, install oil cooler, Clean & Paint sheet metal, assemble & install engine)
Total $6116.30
There's more pictures but I thought these were worth a share mind you they are from 1988:
Lunchtime delivery... about 5 times as large as the original box that they sent that was mislabeled. I wasn't expecting these until 10/3 so now I'm feeling the pressure to locate a set of cam tools to get this thing done... I'm half way tempted to purchase the spring compressor tools myself to lap the valve and change the stem seals. If the other half of the engine does not have catastrophic failure evidence then I will probably pop for those.
Finally had a chance to go through my folder of receipts. The engine was built by Stephen Rogers of Leverett, MA with some labor paid to Dutcher Automotive in 1988. Work & Parts at the time (would be nice to get these prices back):
2.7RS Pistons & Cylinders - $1298
Gaskets & Hardware - 150
Rod Bolts & Nuts - $146
SSI Exhaust - $750
Chains - $48
Tensioners - $116
Locks - $16
Oil return Tubes - $80
PMO Webers - $1118
Cams - $350
Rod Bearings - $75
Main Bearings - $60
Oil Radiator - $175
Valve Covers - $75
Paint/Cleaning Supplies - $42
Stress Bar - $110
Clutch Face Plate - $140
Cam tower oil lines - $19
Alternator - $140
Knee Pads - $17.40
Labor - $1190 (Remove & Deliver motor, port cylinder heads, modify sheet metal heat synks, install oil cooler, Clean & Paint sheet metal, assemble & install engine)
Total $6116.30
There's more pictures but I thought these were worth a share mind you they are from 1988:
Last edited by Lapkritis; 09-27-2012 at 06:07 PM.