Targa project.... WARNING NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART.
#316
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Lastly this weekend I finished the roll cage. I decided to have a weld in cage that connected to the rear shock mounts. I felt it would help with the coil over suspension from Rebel Racing that's going in back there.
I initially bought a Harbor Freight pipe bender but it wasn't up to par. I effed up a pipe which was about $20-$30.... So then I found an off road shop here in town called "Steel Nutz" that bends pipe and other metal work. I gave them a drawing of what I wanted and they produced the main hoop exactly as I asked so I guess it was $80 well spent. I do have to say they had some SWEET vehicles in their shop...
Here's the main hoop:
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59101417998668.jpg)
The cross brace measurements:
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59121417998693.jpg)
Halfway in:
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59141417998736.jpg)
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59151417998802.jpg)
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59171417998814.jpg)
It's not completely welded in since I need to recover the targa bar and I'm afraid to weld in the cage and not be able to get the targa bar liner in afterwards. so the bars going to the shock mounts are just "there"
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59201417998837.jpg)
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59241417998847.jpg)
I initially bought a Harbor Freight pipe bender but it wasn't up to par. I effed up a pipe which was about $20-$30.... So then I found an off road shop here in town called "Steel Nutz" that bends pipe and other metal work. I gave them a drawing of what I wanted and they produced the main hoop exactly as I asked so I guess it was $80 well spent. I do have to say they had some SWEET vehicles in their shop...
Here's the main hoop:
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59101417998668.jpg)
The cross brace measurements:
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59121417998693.jpg)
Halfway in:
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59141417998736.jpg)
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59151417998802.jpg)
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59171417998814.jpg)
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59181417998826.jpg)
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59201417998837.jpg)
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59241417998847.jpg)
![](https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_59251417998862.jpg)
#319
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Looking great!
With your cage, you will have a very rigid structure aft of the door jamb.
I think most of the Targa flex comes from the floor pan between the door jambs. For a stock Targa, this is probably not really an issue, but just more a characteristic of the car (i.e. more flexible than a coupe). However, If I were making the rear end so rigid, I would strongly consider increasing the torsional rigidity of the centre of the car, particularly bridging across the rear of the sill to door jamb junction. I have seen photos of people welding in an additional sheet metal layer over top the inner sill faces, extending past the door jamb area. That seems to be a logical option to investigate, as it would be close to invisible afterwards.
This is just some ad-hoc commentary, certainly you would want to do more investigation to validate it.
With your cage, you will have a very rigid structure aft of the door jamb.
I think most of the Targa flex comes from the floor pan between the door jambs. For a stock Targa, this is probably not really an issue, but just more a characteristic of the car (i.e. more flexible than a coupe). However, If I were making the rear end so rigid, I would strongly consider increasing the torsional rigidity of the centre of the car, particularly bridging across the rear of the sill to door jamb junction. I have seen photos of people welding in an additional sheet metal layer over top the inner sill faces, extending past the door jamb area. That seems to be a logical option to investigate, as it would be close to invisible afterwards.
This is just some ad-hoc commentary, certainly you would want to do more investigation to validate it.
#320
Addict
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you are doing R or "RS" door cards you will have room for side bars too. I'd wait until you have your doors and seats fitted. In a Targa it will be worth it.
#321
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Looking great!
With your cage, you will have a very rigid structure aft of the door jamb.
I think most of the Targa flex comes from the floor pan between the door jambs. For a stock Targa, this is probably not really an issue, but just more a characteristic of the car (i.e. more flexible than a coupe). However, If I were making the rear end so rigid, I would strongly consider increasing the torsional rigidity of the centre of the car, particularly bridging across the rear of the sill to door jamb junction. I have seen photos of people welding in an additional sheet metal layer over top the inner sill faces, extending past the door jamb area. That seems to be a logical option to investigate, as it would be close to invisible afterwards.
This is just some ad-hoc commentary, certainly you would want to do more investigation to validate it.
With your cage, you will have a very rigid structure aft of the door jamb.
I think most of the Targa flex comes from the floor pan between the door jambs. For a stock Targa, this is probably not really an issue, but just more a characteristic of the car (i.e. more flexible than a coupe). However, If I were making the rear end so rigid, I would strongly consider increasing the torsional rigidity of the centre of the car, particularly bridging across the rear of the sill to door jamb junction. I have seen photos of people welding in an additional sheet metal layer over top the inner sill faces, extending past the door jamb area. That seems to be a logical option to investigate, as it would be close to invisible afterwards.
This is just some ad-hoc commentary, certainly you would want to do more investigation to validate it.
More than likely I'll just get used to hopping into the car with them on and never take them out. But I like OPTIONS.....
#323
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter