Finally Starting my 3.2 to 3.4 Conversion
#31
Ed, I'm a rookie at this. When you rebuilt your engine what all did you have done? The reason why I ask is I'm not racing this car via POC... Cab... that would be interesting, but I was thinking of having the folks at Extrude Hone my intake manifold. To make that smooth mirror type passage for better airflow. I'm wondering your take on that?
C.L.
C.L.
Last edited by Dentron; 02-02-2010 at 01:22 AM. Reason: Added more info
#32
#33
I'm certainly no expert. I've been on the fence about the extruding myself. There are some that say there is benefit, but I've talked to a few guys who have built a few engines, and find the expense probably not worth it. Two of them this past weekend at Daytona talked me out of it.The biggest benefit is probably evening out the flow from cylinder to cylinder. But the DME system is not a precision system as you've got some cross from cyl to cyl on each manifold bank. If money is no object, then I'm sure you'll get some benefit-the question is how much?
Racing valve springs and Ti retainers are a must, in my opinion. You really should reconsider that. ARP or similar high tensile rod bolts too. These are all components of insurance against damage with the dreaded missed shift. I'd hate to put this money and time into a motor and then make a bonehead mistake in 3 or 6 months or 3 years for that matter. A solid upgrade whether the car is street or track.
Racing valve springs and Ti retainers are a must, in my opinion. You really should reconsider that. ARP or similar high tensile rod bolts too. These are all components of insurance against damage with the dreaded missed shift. I'd hate to put this money and time into a motor and then make a bonehead mistake in 3 or 6 months or 3 years for that matter. A solid upgrade whether the car is street or track.
#34
+1 Ed on the hardware. Its a must have when going thru one of these motors. Money very well spent and, although expensive, will seem like a bargain five years down the road when everything is solid and not leaking. Extrude hone is expensive and the benefit is unknown to me. We did it to an IMSA turbo motor along with lots of other stuff and the benefit, if any, may have been shrouded by other stuff. Whats 15hp when you already have 450 on tap? That was a money is no object/every advantage possible deal. Turbo motors don't respond as well as NA to porting because the air is getting crammed in there anyway. So it might help, might not. I would do it though since I'm across the country and spending your money in my head. LOL
Dentron... you will probably be OK as you said. The problem is when on cold start up, thick gooey oil plumbed to the front of the car thru a cooler is too much for the shaft (oil pump).
Dentron... you will probably be OK as you said. The problem is when on cold start up, thick gooey oil plumbed to the front of the car thru a cooler is too much for the shaft (oil pump).
#35
I'm certainly no expert. I've been on the fence about the extruding myself. There are some that say there is benefit, but I've talked to a few guys who have built a few engines, and find the expense probably not worth it. Two of them this past weekend at Daytona talked me out of it.The biggest benefit is probably evening out the flow from cylinder to cylinder. But the DME system is not a precision system as you've got some cross from cyl to cyl on each manifold bank. If money is no object, then I'm sure you'll get some benefit-the question is how much?
Racing valve springs and Ti retainers are a must, in my opinion. You really should reconsider that. ARP or similar high tensile rod bolts too. These are all components of insurance against damage with the dreaded missed shift. I'd hate to put this money and time into a motor and then make a bonehead mistake in 3 or 6 months or 3 years for that matter. A solid upgrade whether the car is street or track.
Racing valve springs and Ti retainers are a must, in my opinion. You really should reconsider that. ARP or similar high tensile rod bolts too. These are all components of insurance against damage with the dreaded missed shift. I'd hate to put this money and time into a motor and then make a bonehead mistake in 3 or 6 months or 3 years for that matter. A solid upgrade whether the car is street or track.
Thanks Ed...
#39
I would think twin plug would do a lot more performance-wise than extrude honing. $800 or so for extruding, $1800-2000 for twin plugging. You're going to be pushing the efficiency of combustion via one plug with a 98mm cylinder. You're either going to be running higher octane and/or limiting your ability to tune the chip.
#40
I am trying to stay away from $7.00 a gallon that's for sure, but I think Steve Wong will be able to make the ship once I break it in 1000 miles and dyno it. There's a line I'm trying not to cross because smogging is going to be a problem. The Extruding is $630 + tax... I'm not sure why they quoted tax, but that's what they told me. I think I'm going to call Steve tomorrow to get some feedback.
How is your rebuild coming?
C.L.
How is your rebuild coming?
C.L.
#41
Rebuild? Ha, I've only seen my car for 5 minutes in the last two weeks. I was hoping to get one more good drive before I take it offline. Looks like rain when I get home Saturday. I'm probably going to drop the motor the weekend of of 2/20 or 2/27. Need to see what works. I've been accumulating parts 'til now.
#43
#44
#45
+1 Ed on the hardware. Its a must have when going thru one of these motors. Money very well spent and, although expensive, will seem like a bargain five years down the road when everything is solid and not leaking. Extrude hone is expensive and the benefit is unknown to me. We did it to an IMSA turbo motor along with lots of other stuff and the benefit, if any, may have been shrouded by other stuff. Whats 15hp when you already have 450 on tap? That was a money is no object/every advantage possible deal. Turbo motors don't respond as well as NA to porting because the air is getting crammed in there anyway. So it might help, might not. I would do it though since I'm across the country and spending your money in my head. LOL
Dentron... you will probably be OK as you said. The problem is when on cold start up, thick gooey oil plumbed to the front of the car thru a cooler is too much for the shaft (oil pump).
Dentron... you will probably be OK as you said. The problem is when on cold start up, thick gooey oil plumbed to the front of the car thru a cooler is too much for the shaft (oil pump).